Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Dipstick Tube Rusted And Snapped?
Jun 10, 2013
OK, so I have a 01 f350sd and i went to check my oil and the dipstick tube itself is so rusted it snapped in half so I took it to the dealer which I knew was going to be over priced labor but still checked the tube itself is 20 dollars but labor is upwards of 300-500... My engine is the 5.4 triton.
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The dipstick tube on my 5.4 snap and ive ordered a new one. it looks like it may not be to hard to replace.
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I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
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I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
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Ford F-150, 1999, 4WD. My dipstick tube has rusted off right at the point where it attaches to the engine block. I purchased a new one but I'm not sure if that's a job I can do on my own. What installing a new tube will entail?
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I just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
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I have a 2001 7.3 and have found the engine oil dipstick coming out of the dipstick tube by 6 - 8 inches on three different occasions. Did not think much of it until my other 2000 7.3 did the same thing.
What causes this as afraid it will come all the way out and get into the serpentine belt.
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My '03 F250 has a rusted bed. Both Rear fenders have it and if i didn't have a bed liner the bed would be rusted through. Where i can get a new take off or used bud decent bed? Any color doesn't matter just needs to be the short bed not the 8ft one.
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I recently bought an 05 F250 CC SB. One or more of the bed support rails is rusted and the front one (right behind the cab) is bad enough that I can move the bed up and down with my hand. I've read several threads on a few forums about replacing them and I'm wanting to do it myself.
One other thread I read on this forum (link) gives a pretty straightforward outline of how he successfully did it and even gives dimensions for the rails he made. I'm thinking of doing pretty much the same thing, but he didn't mention the gauge/thickness of metal that he used. I read about the Dorman replacement kit, but they don't mention gauge either.
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Going to be picking up a 2014 bed soon. I have one rusted cab corner and both door bottoms are rusted I really can't buy new doors but I can replace the cab corner. What should I do about the door rust? My plan is to use monstaliner on the entire truck in a dark grey color. Any way to keep it from rusting any farther?
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I have my front axles out to replace the U-Joints but they are rusted in there. Even the C-Clip is fused/rusted in place. I use my flat wheel grinder and ground out the C-Clips but the U-Joint caps wont budge. Been soaking in penetrating oil too. Any way other than drilling them out?
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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2010 F250, what size tube do I need to fit on the brake bleeder screw? The tubes I have are all too big and the size marks are no longer legible.
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Just did a drop an refill of my trans fluid. Put in a little under 8 qts.
My question is where should the fluid read ? Is half way between full and E good or should it be right up to the line ?
Obviously I'm reading it while trans is warm and in nuetral, engine running
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I have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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I changed the shift tube in my Excursion today. I'm trying to put the key switch back in. It will go in and rotate fairly hard. I can not get the key to release. When I hook the battery back up, everything functions as it should but it won't start, the key won't release and it still turns hard. The dash lights come on and such when the key is turned to run. I tried a different key with the same results. Everything looks good.
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04 f250, 5.4 ,90,000mi. Checked my oil today and saw this white flaky crap on the dipstick its salt, probably from a broken dipstick tube, probably broken at the manifold right where there was a huge deposit salt right on top. The manifold is leaking anyway I was hoping to wait till spring when everything dries out and warms up a little bit, but with salt getting into the engine I think I have to do it now. Is there any way to deflect moisture off the road away from the exhaust manifolds?
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My 2016 Ford F-250 has 14,000 miles on it. I took it in for its second oil change today and came away with big problems. When the mechanic pulled the dipstick out he found it covered with a guncky dirt like material. He said he had never seen anything like it. He changed the oil and checked it again with more gunk coming out. I drove it to the nearest Ford house where a mechanic pulled the dipstick out and found the same thing. He said that he had never seen anything like it. Every time he pulled the dipstick out, it had more coated on it.
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