Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Blower Works Better On A/C Compared To Max Setting?
Jun 12, 2015
My 2001 f350 a/c blower works better on a/c compared to max a/c . When I turn the selector to max a/c it makes more of a blowing noise but less air blows out of the vents though. When I select plain a/c it makes less noise but blows more air out of the vents. What is wrong and how to go about fixing it is 93 here today and won't get much cooler over the summer months .
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2001 f350 blower motor for (A/C - Heater) works sometimes and sometimes does not.
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1999 F250 .. Blower works some times then for no reason stops. When it works, I have all speeds, it makes no odd noises. I shut the engine off and then it does not work. I have power to the blower motor even when it is not working. I doubt it is the speed resistor module because that is not used in high speed. I've taken the blower motor out of its housing and pulled the resistor module as well. I find nothing wrong, power it up and the blower works. I put it all back together and it does not work.
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Like the title says; I have a 2001 F350 with No blower Motor and Just Defrost, it is actually a friends, he is building a fence, and I am looking into the truck problem. The just defrost is probably a vacuum issue, but I do not have any book for this truck, so I have no vacuum or wiring diagrams. As far as the blower motor, I am thinking switch or motor, fuse has been checked? Is there any other "control" box involved with this year/model? Also any dash tear-out instructions, to make the access easier?
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I have an 01 f350, my reverse lights only work when I hold up my shifter, like its almost into park. I think my reverse light switch is bad, but I don't know where its located.
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My '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
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I've got a 2006 SD Lariat, 6.0. The fan only comes on when turned to high. The display moves when the fan speed button is pressed, but nothing from the fan until high. I don't really know anything about the operation of these things, whether they run on a vacuum, or electric, or??? I'm not sure where to start with it.
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I'm in the process of changing oil seals on my dually front end. Do I need to worry about backlash settings? I see the gears are attached with solid brackets, which I assume, as just torque to spec and not worry about backlash. What is the torque spec for the four bolts holding the gears/yoke in place?
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I recently purchased a 2010 F250 Super Duty and would like to set a keypad code. I have looked every where I can think of except behind the radio.
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I have a 2012 F250 with Sirius radion in the non navigation radio. I want it to default to stay on the song vs the channel name. Is there any way to do this?
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My HVAC blower switch only works when I put it on 5 (the highest setting). What needs to be replaced (besides the whole truck)?
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Ok, I have had this problem a couple of times before, generally when it is wet and cold outside and the result is a very dead battery. The heat/ac blower fan continues to run after the truck has been shut off and the key removed. I believe that it even comes on after the truck has been shut off. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2 xlt 221k miles. I have an issue where my AC works sometimes and other times it doesn't work. On the occasion it will work kind of, meaning that it will blow cold for a few seconds (when the compressor clutch engages, but as soon as the clutch disengages I get warm air. My low pressure is at about 30psi and the high is about 140psi (seems low to me). When I bought the truck the a.c. didn't work at all. I pulled a vacuum and put the recommended 29oz of 134a in it. When it works its VERY cold. There doesn't seem to be any ryme or reason (temp, humidity, drive time) as to if it works or not. On occasion (not working) I have been able to turn off the a.c. for a couple minutes and when I turn it on it works.
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My fan control went out yesterday (hot day with no A/C), It comes back on at times, but if it's on three it may only blow like it's on one. What I need to replace??
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I just picked up this truck and have found my first undisclosed problem. The A/C only works on MAX. If you turn to any other setting, regardless of selected temp, the air blows hot. And I mean full hot! I was thinking the control panel assembly is bad?
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I have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
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The blower motor went out on my 2008 F-350,? I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it out. Do I have to remove the dash? I am positive it is fried, I ran a hot wire straight to the motor and it still wouldn't come on.
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15 f350 gas xlt with 8.6 Western proplus straight blade. I noticed that while only applying throttle and fully angling the plow ,the hvac system turns off and then on again and the dashboard lights also turn off with the message system also going blank. I've brought it back to the body builder, twice, that installed it and they don't acknowledge a problem. The only answer I got was it's probably a bad battery. The funny part is you can angle it all day while it idles but as soon as you apply throttle and fully angle it left or right it cause the loss of power to certain accessories. When it does this it also causes a relay to click under the dash panel on the drivers side .
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My A/C, vent fan (blower motor) keeps going in and out. Does not do it all the time, but when it goes out, it will come back on after a few moments, but will not run full speed. If you try to adjust the speed, it just cuts off again. What is causing this.
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1999 F350 Crewcab 4x4 dually V10. Fan switch only works on High. All fuses and relays look Good. Is it a bad speed control switch? What can it be?
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Over the last few years my power windows in my '99 Super Duty have started working intermittently. The problem seems to be with both the main controls on the drivers door and the control on the passenger door. Sometimes both of them have problems operating, sometimes just one. Does not make a lot of sense. Could I have bad switches or do I need to check something else?
Rowland '99 Ford Super Duty 7.3 Diesel Dually
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