Ok I have a p1316 code so I was told to change valve cover gaskets so I did. Now starts for 4 sec and dies, what is going on....
View 2 RepliesI'm looking at replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 02 f-250, it's a 7.3L.
Looking at them on line there are many different brands. What have you used on your 7.3L, and which has worked the best for you?
I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
Own a 2000 Camry XLE 6-cyl. Both valve cover gaskets are leaking. Rear one leaks onto the manifold and causes stench. Have been quoted $350. to replace because the job is complicated. Have any of you done this on your own, and if so, would you recommend it or go to a qualified mechanic?
View 9 RepliesTruck was running a little rough before valve cover gasket replacement. Replaced gaskets and it ran rougher than before. Found a burned out spark plug coil and replaced coils, plugs, and wire. Runs smoothly now, but there's very, very low power, probably tops out at 35 mph. What gives?
View 19 RepliesI took it to the stealership to get the alternator and some vac. lines replaced all under an extended warranty. They informed me that both valve cover gaskets and right side cam adjuster gaskets are leaking. By no means am I a mechanic or close to but I am trying to get this stuff done as cheap as possible so I am going to try to tackle this myself.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 hyundai santa fe and the valve cover gaskets are leaking. We were able to change the one in the front but we cant figure out what to do with the back one. Need to find a video showing what to do...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 RepliesI just picked up a 2001 F350 with the 5.4L with 200k miles. When I test drove the thing the engine sounded fine. I got it home and noticed that it occasionally has a loud knocking noise that is coming from the Left Valve cover area. It sounds like an old Chevy 6.5L Diesel ...
It comes and goes, Hot or Cold. It seems like it usually goes away when driving with RPMs above 1500 or so, however I took off with it yesterday and the noise would not go away, it seems like it might be low on power when the noise comes on, but then again it always feels low on power, so who knows.
I have changed the plugs, oil, and verified there are no exhaust leaks at the manifolds.
Here is a video of the noise: YouTube....
I dont think it is the timing chain, as it seems like its coming more from the center of the cover, when placing my hand on the cover near the timing set there is no vibration or anything that would lead me to believe its the chain.
All of my searching so far turns up 3V stuff, and little info on the 2V engines. The valve cover looks like a nightmare to get off, who have to work on these things (including me).
I just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
View 8 RepliesWhat these codes stand for.
- P1316
- P0640
I just replaced the head lights on my 2001 f250 it had the sealed beam one-piece glass headlights and I replaced those with regular headlights and when I went to get bulbs I found out after I get home the connector is different from the new bulbs. the new bulbs fit correctly but I can not hook plug them the plug has 3 connectors that have two connectors level and one is higher than the other two and the new bulbs the three prongs are level.
My question is. is there another bulb that will fit and plugin and if so what is the part number? is there a adapter that I can get that will allow the factory plug to work? or will I need to cut the old plug off and splice a new connector on?
CEL turned on this morning heading to work. Truck drove completely normal with no signs of altered performance.
Stopped by Autozone after work and they checked it with a code reader.
Came back with P0442 - "Purge Valve Solenoid"
Part sold with or without bracket.
Is this a common part to fail? How can I be sure it has truly failed? Is it acceptable to reset CEL and see if it fails again? If so, how do I reset? Where is part located?
If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
View 4 RepliesMy 1999 F250 won't start ever since I replaced the o ring where the dipstick meets the oil pan. Started it when I was finished it ran for a minute and shut off, the truck was on a slope my low fuel light was on. I have it sitting on the flat now but still not starting but turns over?
View 1 RepliesI am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
My mk4 sat for a while and upon starting up was misfiring. I checked for pvc leaks and didn't see anything but went ahead and cleaned my maf sensor and decided to pull my coils. Cylinder 1 had oil on the tip and around the spark plug which to me spelled out a bad valve cover gasket. I got all the parts to do the inner and outer gaskets and replace the coil and spark plug, however we got a snowstorm and my luck a rabbit got in and ate the wiring on one of my fuel injector connectors.
So went ahead and put on the new gasket, replaced the coil and plug and bought a new Fuel Injector Connector and spliced in onto the Injector "Pigtail'. I double checked everything was reattached properly and let the gasket sealant dry for 24 hours. I went to start it tonight and after trying to turnover it completely cuts out, wont even start up. I'm extremely frustrated at this point and am thinking the rabbit must have gotten to something else unless I did something wrong in the process of repairing.
So, weird smell that I thought was burning plastic or rubber is actually hot oil leaking from the valve cover and tensioner gaskets.
My car is nearly 8 years old (2003), and has about 70K. Should I go ahead and buy a timing belt kit and replace all that stuff at the same time?
I have a 2006 Infiniti G35 base sedan. The dealer noticed oil on the engine and said that I needed to replace both valve covers and gaskets -- My question: Why is it necessary to replace the valve covers and not just the gaskets?
View 6 RepliesAbout to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
View 3 Replies