Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - E-Brake Won't Working - Replace Front / Intermediate / Rear Cables?
Sep 23, 2013
2000 F 350 super cab 4wd 7,3 auto srw long bed. Problems with emergency/parking. My cable probably needs replacing. My pedal will go to floor when setting the e brake. I use very infrequently, but when loading hay on the big bale trailer. I could ignore it but when hit the slightest bump the brake pedal goes down just enough to activate the brake light on the dash and activates the bell/chime until I raise the brake pedal up.
When searching this site one post stated that should not happen. I am trying to figure out if I need to replace the front cable, intermediate cable, and rear cables. And do I need to replace the foot pedal assembly as well. What are the part numbers for these. I generally order from who ever took over Edpartguys for original ford parts. I have new cryo rotors and Hawke brake pads.
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I have a 2000 F-350 Dually. One of the rear fender lights is not working. Is there a way to check the bulb without pulling the inner liner to access it?
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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Looking for an aftermarket intermediate steering shaft for my 2001 f350 since the original has some play at the slip joint and u joints.
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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I recently noticed my truck (2006 f250 v8) making some clicking noises on really sharp turns and also horrible grinding when stopping (like the brake pads were shot).
I replaced the pads a couple years ago, so I didn't then they were bad, but I took a look tonight. What I found was a couple of seals blown on both sides!
What these are and how this might have happened? They look the same on both sides. How do I replace them?
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I replaced my my front hub assemblies on my 2003 F250, 4x4, about two years ago and my driver side hub is leaking. I first noticed it the other day when I tried to shift into 4 wheel drive and my hubs would not lock in the ESOF system.
I used a vacuum pump and it leaked down pretty fast so I assume the knuckle/axle seal is the culprit.
I plan on ordering these three seals:
Amazon.com: f81z-1s175-hca
I am also noticing another # for the axle seal. It is 3C3Z-3254-CA. Which is correct for my 2003?
Are my questions would I actually need to replace all three? The dust seal is not leaking at the moment. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?
What type of grease do I need to use the seals? I have some disc brake bearing lithium grease in the cabinet. Will this work or do I need to get a specific type
Lastly, I've seen a post where members have made their seal seating tool out of the galvanized pipe, cap, and a flange. The flange is said to be too large and it would have to be ground down for the right diameter.
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I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
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The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
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I recently discovered that my brake lights were not working. The high mount is. With a little research I came to the conclusion the switch was bad. I checked every fuse that had brake in the title. All good. So I buy a NAPA switch and swap it out. Still no brake lights and now high mount is not working. To check, I reinstalled the old switch. Still nothing. What now and why would the center mount stop working?
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Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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I have been having some brake chatter for awhile now. I have changed pads, changed rotors, rebuilt both front calipers, flushed all my brake fluid, and made sure my slide pins were good and free. I have noticed some weird wear on the new front rotors and was wondering if it was normal or not. On a different note, I am having to replace my parking brake pads. When I had the axle out I looked in and saw a bunch of gunk.
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All 4 crew cab door locks are not working...I see and hear them moving a little but not enough to get the job done.....Ive read a good fix on this forum but have a few questions...... 1. Could the problem be in the switch or wires ... 2. If I try to fix---do I need to fix all doors or is one door somehow messing the other up.
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Our cruise isn't working, I've read through the posts here and tried a few things
2000 F-250 V-10
-First symptom was the cruise light would light with the ON button and go off with the OFF button but I could not set the speed with the SET button. Now the cruise light hardly comes on at all any more.
- I've run the cruise self-test diagnostics and all the switch presses passed with no additional light blinks. After the static test the speed control servo makes a sound but does not move the throttle at all.
-The horn works
-Fuses are good
-Truck was taken to the dealer several years back for the cruise update. The pigtail with the green label is installed at the master cylinder. I've disconnected both connections and sprayed with contact cleaner.
That's about it. What it could be or what to test next?
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The 4wd on my 2000 f350 has just stopped working? I have used it a few times since getting it a few months ago and then last night I was going to play paintball in the woods and the 4wd would not engage? when i put it in 4wd it would act like the truck is in neutral and then it lurched forward? The front hubs have the option on them to turn, but I never had to turn them before and they do not move when I tried to? What could be causing the 4wd not to function?
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About a year ago, I had my right rear brake caliper lock up on my F350 dually. The shop said it can happen and replaced both rear calipers. Last week I started to hear something from the rear and within less than a a few days, before I could get to a shop the noise increased and when I looked the rotor had been gouged on the right rear.
I cannot see the left rear rotor to compare as the wheels don't line up on that side to see through. So my question is this. Could it be the caliper failure was a symptom and not the cause. Maybe a proportion valve or something that could affect the pressure on that one wheel.
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I keep having this problem with my 02 Superduty. The rear brakes keep locking up and smoke the pads. The truck is not driven much so that is most of the issues. it has less than 63,000 miles on it. Mostly only driven in the winter with the salt and crud so rust is a problem. What is your advice on changing so that I can get more than a year without having to do it all over again. I am going to get new calipers and the brake kit. Should I get e-brake stuff too?
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