Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - When AV Engages At Idle The Engine Bogs Down
Apr 6, 2015
I am having an issue with a Ford f250, 5.4L, granted this problem existed before and after new A/C compressor, dryer, evaporator, vent door switch, blower motor resistor, new evac and recharge, good pressures no leaks.........Now my problem is the truck runs perfect but when the ac engages at idle the engine bogs down and it seems the clutch is constantly engaging and disengaging........AC blows cold, no issues there, does this sound like an IAC valve problem????
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1999 Ford Triton V-10 engine, after changing Oxygen sensors, all vacuum hoses and Mass airflow sensor,(also replaced another sensor but can't think of the name of it right now) now I don't get the codes but engine will start and idle but if I give the engine gas it bogs down and stalls. Vehicle sat in my driveway for 3 months, I got it started and drove it once about 30 miles filled up my gas tank thinking gas could be stale, but now it will not run.
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After doing a test drive after installing an 8" lift on my 2000 6-speed manual diesel F-250, I noticed that while the 4X4 engages, it won't shift into Low. I've had this truck 7 years and know the drill: complete stop, foot on the brake, clutch to the floor, transmission in neutral, and it usually takes a couple seconds. I've tried different combinations of backing up first, going straight from 2WD to 4Low, etc and still no 4Low.
As far as I know the ESOF transfer case is all electronic and vacuum doesn't play a role. I don't recall ever seeing a vacuum line coming out of it anyway.
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1999 f250 super duty crew cab 7.3 psd : Why my 4wd is engaging and disengaging by itself? I recently had a vac leak which caused the HVAC controls to stop working and the ESOF stopped working also. I found a creak in the PVH solenoid and replaced it. I also replaced the 2 vac lines going from the hard line down to the hub. The HVAC controls work fine but now the 4wd is turning on and off when ever it feels like it. I have removed the selector button in the cab, disconnected the plug from the PVH solenoid, and even disconnected the vac lines from the hub. The problem still persists.
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I have a 2004 to 250 super duty 5.4 and automatic trans it has about 233,000 miles on it. Yesterday when I started my truck I could see my reverse lights were stuck on against the garage door in the dark. After I put the truck in drive the lights went out later on I shift at the truck and to park and the starter engaged I put the truck in neutral and it stopped the starter from running after doing that several times the truck now does it even when it's in reverse or neutral. I have to leave it in drive and push the emergency brake on I am in and out of the truck all day long. I did change the shift to blast may I check the screws on the back of the shift to bury thing seems fine.
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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When I "step on it" on the freeway or even a moderately inclined freeway ramp, it bogs down and actually takes a few moments to cover. Sometimes will leave me crawling at about 20mph for a few minutes. Engine revs just fine in neutral. If I very slowly build up speed I can cruise at 75mph, but forget passing. Also, this came along at the same time a severe shaking/shuddering spell started. Not always, but often it is shaking the entire body and certainly through the steering wheel. Was so bad the first time I stopped to see if I had a flat. Usually lasts until I slow way down and ease my speed back up. Had the front end steering structure replaced about two years ago, so I don't think it is that. What is the cause of the bog down and could the shaking be related? This truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time and then I drive for about 50 miles and park it again. Can Michigan gasoline go bad that quickly?
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I have a 2000 F250, SuperCab, 5.4 triton, 100,000 miles. It's been a great truck - got it at 63,000 miles. Once engine warms up, it has rough idle, and shift rough. I can give it gas to RPMs up and it smooths out some but is low on power. If this was my 76 F150, I would guess the vacuum hose off the intake manifold to the transmission came loose.
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I have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
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I have a 02 F250 Super Duty XLT with a triton V8 with a automatic transmission . and when I shift into reverse after driving for a while the starter engages . It does not happen all the time . If i start up the truck and shift through or into reverse it doesn't happen . the only time it happens is when i've been driving for awhile and want to back up or park it will only do it once or twice after each drive so trying to get it to happen while in the shop is almost impossible . could this be caused by the transmission range sensor . I just had the code P0705 (transmission range sensor , A circuit input ) come on but the problem has been happening for a few weeks before that code came up .
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I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4 crew cab. Cruise light comes on when engaged but does not work. I did some research on why its not working checked wiring at the throttle body it seemed ok, Fuse is ok. Also did the self test and everything passed with just one flash but cruise still does not work. I read about many problems with the brake pressure switch but would it pass the self test if that pressure switch was bad? Also what should a switch cost. Local dealer wanted $125.00 for a new one and I have read where they cost around $15.00 - $20.00.
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I have a 2000 Ford-F250, V10, 6.8 liter Gas. The issue is that when I try to start the vehicle it will start, but then start to idle real low and then die. If I try to restart sometime it will and sometimes you have to let it sit. I can also pump the gas and it will sometimes start.
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My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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Just changed the oil in my 6.0 and I'm sitting here looking at my tuner and is telling me my idle rpms are about 770.
Before I changed my oil it idled around 750.
It's running fine, I was just wondering why it changed? More pressure to the injectors with the newer oil?
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On a 2000 F-350 with 5.4 engine, where does the vacuum line enter the cab? I got a truck in with no vacuum signal to the heat controls, and it has a slight miss at idle. Both of these are signs of a vacuum leak, but i can not find the line going into the cab.
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I recently purchased this 2003 F350 DRW with the 7.3L, automatic trans. Truck has 140k on it. Three times now while the truck has been idling, the engine just died. The first time was a couple of weeks ago when I was pulling out of the driveway. Then again yesterday twice, once while just sitting at a stop sign. Each time it has started right up and ran fine.What is going on here?
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We have a 2008 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton well ever since I replaced the power steering pump its been running raggedly, it idles rough and when i get up to 50, 55, 60 the check engine light comes on i put a diagnostic reader on it and said something along the lines of ECU bank 1 an Bank 2. What that is and I've been a mechanic for almost 3 years.
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I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 I replaced the belt because of belt squeal and after replacing it the squeal is gone. now after the truck gets to its normal temp and I stop at a gas station for dip I will leave it running and when I come out it has this loud chirping noise it kinda sounds mechanical but it very well could be something on the belt drive. I am stumped it goes away after I start driving but I am kind of nervous about what it could be.
And the only time I hear it is while the truck is at normal temp and in park I have rolled the windows down and can not hear it while driving or at traffic lights. a part of me says it could be the fan clutch and now that it has a good belt on it I am hearing a sound of maybe the clutch going out or a pulley bearing starting to go out. Where I should go from here?
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My F350 idles fine but every 10-15 seconds it mis fires. When asking it to go up hill it sputters and seems to loose power. It runs fine until asked to work hard. Not really sure which direction to go in first.
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I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
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