Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 V10 F250 - Temp Gauge Suddenly Shoots To Max / Truck Goes Into Limp Mode
Jun 14, 2014
My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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Bought a brand new F250 6.7 it has 7000 miles in it now and the check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. I have taken it in to the dealership twice they said there is no code they can find and they just reset the check engine light and it does ok for a bit then starts the cycle all over again. It also is only getting about 6.5 mpg....
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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I am looking at a 1997 F150 with a 5.4 in it, guy who owns it says if you drive it down the street the temp gauge climbs and then the truck goes into limp mode but if you check the engine temp under hood it is nowhere near overheating. Where I should start to look for a problem here? If this is too complicated I will pass on the truck, its not worth it to me to get this truck if it is going to be a nightmare. I have a 2000 with a 4.6 that runs great so this would just be a spare for me, but would like to have it because its in such nice shape.
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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I have had this issue with the truck 2008 F-250 6.4L since I bought it a year ago. At first it seemed as if the truck wouldn't start whenever the water temp gauge was working while she was hot. When the gauge wasn't working she would start right up like a champ. Well a year later ( have only been driving it for 6 months) a full engine rebuild, new high pressure fuel pump ( injector pump on top the engine below the turbos) she still won't start when she is hot. What the issues are.
Right after the engine rebuild I was getting the p088 code which is for the hpfp but since I cleared the codes right after the engine was rebuilt I haven't gotten the code again. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump this last weekend hoping that it would solve all of my issues and she would be like brand new again, but it didn't do anything. When I ran codes right after I installed the high pressure fuel pump I got a few codes p0684 which is the glow plug control module p0284 ( google said) gear lever y position correct but I'm unsure if that's right.
P0528 which is the fan speed sensor circuit ( that was unplugged during the removal of the hpfp and power steering pump or the radiator) p0480 cooking fan circuit ( also unplugged ) p174e out put shaft wheel speed correlation ( not concerned about that one) p008c fuel pump control circuit p008d fuel cooler system ( taken out and unplugged using installation of new hpfp) p115a ( low fuel level forced limit power) that is from trying to start while she had a little bit of air in the system after replacement) p2291 injector control pressure to low- excessive cranking ( probably from the air in the fuel system again). I cleared all those codes once I got her up and running again. Checked for codes yesterday and the only one that came up again was the p0684. Where to check next for this hot start issues,and don't know what to do at this point.
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I got in my 06 f250 tonight and my digital read out on my temp control not working. My heater and A/C works but when I turn it off my outside temp is not on. Whats going on?
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My 2008 250 suddenly lost ability to adjust temp control of heat and A/C. I can adjust the fan speed and the defrost/dash vents/foot heater position controls, but no matter how far I turn the cold/hot dial left or right, the temp is the same. Even in the Max and Norm A/C setting, it's the same temp, which is stuck in the hot range.
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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I have an issue with my 2008 f250 6.4 where the gauge cluster is dark and truck won't crank. The only light on the dash is the airbag light. I have tried reprogamming with my Spartan tuner, checked fuses, removed aftermarket alarm, charged batteries. I scanned and got two codes. P1260 theft detected and a u code no comm with cluster.
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My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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New issue I've discovered , when stopping , the RPM's drop down to 500, truck acts like it wants to stall , then goes up to 750 RPM's . Then it's fine . Doesn't hesitate when accelerating . Idles slightly rough after start up , about 30 seconds . I've checked the air filter , cleaned the IAC and MAF. Fuel filter is only a year old . What I should check next ?
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Replaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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I have an 02 F250 V10. Ive always wondered about the transmission gauge. It seems to always point to the middle of the gauge range. This weekend I was pulling my car hauler up and over the Ozark mountains, and when I stopped for fuel I noticed the transmission was vomiting fluid underneath the truck (and on my exhaust creating a nice smoke bomb for everyone around me). The gauge indicated normal temps. It kind of gave me a sick feeling. I have ordered the 6.0 Trans cooler from Rock Auto and a new temperature sending unit. Do the trans temp gauge is supposed to move or is it pretty much useless?
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I had a mechanic replace the temp sensor on the top of the intake in my 2001 f350 v10 and since then my temp gauge doesn't work. He replaced the sensor again and still nothing. Is there a different sensor/sender that controls the temp gauge???
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My 05 SD started to flash tow haul mode and check gauges message came on while I was towing my car hauler trans temp gauge quit working then check engine light came on too truck runs fine disconnected batteries then re connect them ( trailer now disconnected) problem solved for about 3 mi of driving then it came back w/o trailer I'm thinking rusty trailer ball on hitch caused this maybe not a good ground for trailer tow computer? What kind of scanner etc do I need to possibly clear this problem out? I am the original owner never seen this happen with this or any other trailer I've towed.
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