So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
View 5 RepliesI blew a power steering cooler line yesterday and lost a bit of fluid. Removed and replaced the line, consequently losing most of the fluid in the system (during line replacement). Re-filled the system and now i have great power steering when driving but none at idle. If I bring my RPMs up about 150-200. I get it back in full force. Could my PS pump be on the way out or might this just be air in the system?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
Have a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
View 11 RepliesMy transmission cooling line is leaking. It leaks where it connects to the radiator. Im not sure how I go about removing the connection from the radiator. It is tough to tell from the rust on the connection weather or not I can use a wrench on it. I have read here that there are cooling lines in this part of the radiator for the transmission. Is it serviceable or do I need a new radiator. I dont want to touch it until I know what I'm looking at.
05 F250 5.4L 4x4
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This is something to check, I found the vent line pinched closed on my 2000 F350 when I was trying to find out why it was leaking. When I was under my 2013 installing the hitch I checked it and found the same problem. The clip doesn't pinch it closed right away but it will happen if you don't move the clip.
View 8 RepliesSo this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
I have a 2000 f250 V10 CC 4x4 long bed. The rubber fuel line that has a quick disconnect to attach to the fuel filter along frame is leaking. This is on the filter side going to engine. Ford tells me fuel line not available. Dorman products tech assist can't tell me which connector of there's will fit my truck.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
This line is rusted out on my V10 and leaking fluid.
How hard/expensive is this to fix?
I'm in the middle of doing my exhaust manifolds right now, so I'm hoping it's a simple bolt-on fix.
I have heard that the front brakes are separate, and if the rear brakes have a leak and the line is empty, the fronts should still work. Is this likely to be true? If I drive the truck will I be able to stop with the fronts alone (assuming they will still work?)
I plan to drop the truck off late tonight when there is likely to be no traffic, but thought I would ask.
I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
Transmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
View 12 RepliesOK, so I ordered in the new lines and have them. BUT my problem is snaking the factory transmission line out from under the truck. I have pictures to show my struggles.
How do I pull this:
Out of here???
Towards the front of the motor
Front passenger side cab corner
Replacing these lines? I don't care about breaking the old one, but I still need to find a way to install the new one.
I have replaced both the transmission lines except the one that connects the two. It is the one near the top of the transmission that is about a foot long and goes from the fitting of the one transmission line to the other fitting for the other line. My questions is how do I remove it? It seems to be permanently affixed to the fittings, so those it come attached to new fittings?
View 2 RepliesI'm having trouble disconnecting the transmission lines to replace them. I can't get them off. I have the tool. Can I replace the fittings in the radiator?.
View 3 Replies2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
View 14 RepliesI have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
View 6 RepliesI am not positive where it could be but I have a good bit of oil on the transmission (i think) i was trying to replace the strarter and noticed it. Where the possible leak could be from? No oil on the ground under the truck.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
View 2 RepliesI purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....