Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - Sway Bar Link Arm Removal
Sep 21, 2016
Working on my 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4. Replacing front sway bar link arms and sway bar bushings. I got the driver side arm and the sway bar bushings done and have run into a problem removing the passenger side link arm. When removing the top connection bolt there's not enough clearance when extracting. I've gotten it loose, but as I go to pull it off, it butts up against the bell housing with about an inch of bolt left to clear the frame.
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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We all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
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This is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
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2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
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I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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I recently replaced Sway Bar Links on my 2000 X (V10, 4x4, 155k). They were only a year and half old but the bushings had gave way. Mechanic went with an OEM part with a new design from NAPA. This new design added grease fittings. Now the truck rattles constantly and seems to have more sway. Shocks are probably originals, but I don't think they are the main cause. I can tell the rattle is coming through the frame. All my suspension is stock.
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I have a 2002 F350 4x4 CC 7.3 i am wanting to change the sway bar bushings front and rear to poly and I want greasable bushings to avoid the squeaking that you get with these bushings alot of the time. I would like to change the end links to poly too i realize these wont be greaseable. What was the outcome and where did you buy the bushings. What is the size of the front and rear sway bars and the length of the end links??
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I'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
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What are the specs for the sway bar bushings that go in the retaining bracket for a 2003 ford f250? went to advanced auto last night to get some got mine off my truck and the one they gave me was a little too small for my sway bar and the retaining bracket.
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I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
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I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
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I was going to add a rear sway bar to make the truck more stable after lifting it but then I thought when I eventually do a cummins swap, with all the torque and the tall block i have in the back ill get a lot of axle wrap so i will need traction bars. So what is the difference between them? will a rear sway bar stop axle wrap as well as body roll? Also will traction bars stop axle wrap and decrease body roll? I just don't want to get a sway bar now and then need traction bars and have to get rid of the sway bar.
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Installing the Hellwig 1 1/4 inch Front Sway Bar on their 11 and up F250 or F350 SRW Pickup?
My 2012 F350 Super Cab LWB XLT 6.7L seems to have quite a bit of sway in the front end. This is especially true moving slowly such as turning into service stations or other off angle turns. The truck only has the FORD OEM puny Rear Anti Sway Bar but the front seems to accentuate sway. The Truck has Rancho 9000XL Shocks, Timbren Enhanced Suspension System as well as Torklift Quick Release Stable Loads in the rear.
The Truck I have is not overloaded but it does carry an Eagle Cap 950 Camper pretty much full time. True the Campers now days are tall so some sway is expected. I just want to reduce the apparent front end sway and wonder if others have used the Hellwig Sway Bar in the front.
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I want to remove the 4x4 stickers on my 2014 SD box. I think it looks cleaner without them. Are they difficult to remove or does the hair dryer trick and then some Goo-Gone do the trick without a big time effort? The last thing I want to do is make a mess of the paint finish.
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Looking to get rid of the step handle, I did this mod on mine and it was a direct fit...take off old liner and unbolt handle, then get a liner from a non-step tailgate and it is a direct fit:
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OK, so I ordered in the new lines and have them. BUT my problem is snaking the factory transmission line out from under the truck. I have pictures to show my struggles.
How do I pull this:
Out of here???
Towards the front of the motor
Front passenger side cab corner
Replacing these lines? I don't care about breaking the old one, but I still need to find a way to install the new one.
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I am wanting to take off the center console lid to recover it. The only way I see to remove just the lid from the truck is to hit the rod out that is in the hinge. I was hitting pretty hard with a punch and it wasn't moving. I don't really want to break it so I'm asking if there is a different way or if I just need to use more force?!
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Is it necessary to remove say about one and one half cups of oil from the HPOP reservoir when changing oil? I say not needed.
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I have replaced both the transmission lines except the one that connects the two. It is the one near the top of the transmission that is about a foot long and goes from the fitting of the one transmission line to the other fitting for the other line. My questions is how do I remove it? It seems to be permanently affixed to the fittings, so those it come attached to new fittings?
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I dont want to pry on the wrong thing and brake something. I am trying to remove the headlight. I was told that their are some pins that need to be pulled up. I dont see any pins. I do see two plastic clips on each side of the headlight. They are flat on the top with a small slot in them. There is a "T" stamped on the top of it. Are these the pins? I tried to find a shop manual today without much luck. Looking for a picture to show the pins that need to be removed.
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