Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - Stuck In 3rd Intermittently?
Jul 20, 2015
I have a 2000 I got new in sept of 99 its a good truck and id like to keep it as long as I can its got 173,000 on it I take care of it garaged kept and consistent fluid/filter changes all over top and bottom few minor addons like turbo bak exhaust from Silverline,auto meter gauges so I can monitor temps ,a bigger transmission pan aluminum I did years ago ,a gear vendor 8 speed addon years ago,diablo predator tuner with the 80 horse tune been doing great for a quite a while lately I noticed if I leave it idling in park for a few minutes while in a store r sumpn it won't shift outa 3rd its like overdrive is turned off I have to pull over and kill&restart 7.3 and take off its fine what in the wide wide world a sports is happening my overdrive switch has been out for a couple years I just haven't replaced it yet it gradually got worse when using it id have to pull shift lever in to get it to engage then put in neutral then in park now cant get it to work at all hopefully I can fix it myself but my luck is never that good.
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How to troubleshoot?
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ESOF not going into 4wd at all, except once in a blue moon... for a few times. All relays and fuses tested, swapped with known good units.
NO 4x4 light. so its electrical related. My hubs function like they should. when they are told to. I recently just swapped esof motor/gearbox on the TC. Worked 2x in the garage, went for a spin down the road, went into 2wd and stayed, wouldn't go back into 4hi brought it back inside, dinked around with resetting the GEM fuse. started working good. drove around and switched in and out of 4wd like 20 times no issues. next day, tried to go back into 4wd. nothing. Bring it back in the garage.
CURRENT DIAGNOSIS: Siting inside right now, If I flip the switch, I don't get anything. normally, that triggers the vacuum pump to suck hubs in. That doesn't turn on, the relays under the hood don't click. so it seems I am back up to the switch or GEM, or wires between.... Any test layout for how to test the switch in the dash? seems to be fairly simple, but I just wanted an exact view of what i need to test.
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I have a 07 F650 crewcab with a Cat engine. The air-condition and heater fan work intermittently no rime or reason to it, be driving down the road and it quites, then maybe a few hours later and it will start. A few days ago my wife turned on the key and the fan was working and then yesterday she turned the key on and it wasn't. When I bought it I watched them replace the fan and it worked for a few hundred mile then stopped, for the rest of the trip it was on and off. I replace the resistor and spliced on a new electrical connector, but still have the same problems....
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I have a 2003 6.0 Auto that has an intermittent non cranking issue. Once it does crank it fires right up. Usually when it doesn't crank, I just keep trying the ignition until finally something connects and it will begin to crank and then start. Sometimes I can try it twice, other times I may sit there for 5 minutes fighting with it. My only issue is, I need to get this problem fixed before it becomes a bigger issue.
I don't think it is the ignition itself. When I am attempting to crank I can see the window switch lights and other things going off when I crank it which I though was normal when the starter is operating.
My first thought is the transmission range sensor which I am trying to locate. I looked on the transmission itself which seemed to make sense but I wasn't seeing anything familiar. Someone hinted it might be under the dash above the brake pedal but I am not seeing anything jumping out at me.
I also question the starter itself, but I hear no noise coming from it at all when the problem shows itself. No clunk or anything. Which makes me think something is causing the circuit to not function properly.
The other thought I had is a possibility in the wiring somewhere. Maybe a bad ground on one of the batteries? I have a brand new factory positive aux cable so I think I can scratch that off the list. The batteries are also charged as well, but cannot rule out the possibility that maybe one is bad since I did not install them. But I can make sure they are both charged, and the issue remains. Where I should check?
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2 xlt 221k miles. I have an issue where my AC works sometimes and other times it doesn't work. On the occasion it will work kind of, meaning that it will blow cold for a few seconds (when the compressor clutch engages, but as soon as the clutch disengages I get warm air. My low pressure is at about 30psi and the high is about 140psi (seems low to me). When I bought the truck the a.c. didn't work at all. I pulled a vacuum and put the recommended 29oz of 134a in it. When it works its VERY cold. There doesn't seem to be any ryme or reason (temp, humidity, drive time) as to if it works or not. On occasion (not working) I have been able to turn off the a.c. for a couple minutes and when I turn it on it works.
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ABS light has been coming on intermittently the last few days. Checked the resevoir for fluid level...topped up a bit. Changed the oil today and looked at the sensor connectors on the front brakes...ok... Got a new speed sensor and installed it....ABS is still on. Checked the old sensor with my meter and it is open circuit....no continuity, so I'm thinking it was the problem.. Is there something that has to be reset for the fault to clear, say with a code reader etc?
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My fan control went out yesterday (hot day with no A/C), It comes back on at times, but if it's on three it may only blow like it's on one. What I need to replace??
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A few weeks ago I was towing my 16 X 7 about 300 miles and I noticed that the transmission was whining.
Driven it about 600 miles unloaded with no issues. I do notice when I hit the gas it takes a second to engage..a little jerky...but normal otherwise. I don't drive the truck as a DD, so I tend not to notice things as easily.
Towed it 100 miles yesterday, and 100 miles back home today. Was silent until the last 20 miles...whining again.
What gives? I did have it serviced and inspected a few months ago because I felt like it was a little jerky. Got a clean bill of health from the local diesel shop.
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I have had this problem for quite a while now. Originally it did not go into 4Hi when I needed it in a snow storm. I was told to just change the shift motor so I bought a new one, manually put the transfer case into 4Hi then put the new motor on. It would not shift into 2Hi or 4Lo. It was already in 4Hi but the light was not on. I thought I got a bad shift motor since I got it off eBay. I put the original one back on. Still nothing. I read every thread on this sight having to do with the subject and started going through checking everything. I found one of the relays was bad so I replaced both of them.
Still nothing although I thought I could hear the shift motor (or fuel pump) running. Today I took the shift motor off and hooked up wires to a battery and the shift motor with a momentary switch. When I pushed the button, the motor ran but the thingy that is supposed to turn the shaft on the transfer case did not move. Tried both directions. Then I hooked up the new shift motor and it ran and turned, changed the wires and it ran the other direction. Put it on and it worked, shifts the transfer case and the light comes on when it should. I guess I had been looking for one problem when it was really two separate problems keeping it from working.
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I have a 2002 F250 superduty with a 5.4 in it, every once in awhile it starts to sputter. Its usually when i'm easing on the gas, possibly around a certain rpm and completely random. Once it starts i can get on the gas a little and it stops. i've changed to fuel filter and air filter recently so i know its not that.
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This morning on my way to work in my 2012 F-250 I turned the heater on, controlling the temp from the temperature control. When the truck got up to temperature the heater fan would not come on accordingly to bring the inside of the truck up to the temperature that I had selected on the controls, so I tried operate the fan manually and it still didn't turn on. Once at work I didn't have really have time to look at anything with it, I did however shut the truck off and start it again and still nothing. Then after I got off work, driving home still nothing until I was about half way home then all of the sudden it started working again. I'd sure hate to have this happen again later this winter when the temperature gets below zero outside.
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4 L with an intermittent Misfire. A little history on the truck in 2011 I replaced the motor with a Ford long block motor, only the block, I used my electronics, intake, etc, this was brand new from Ford. The truck has a total of over 300K miles. Recently it has developed an intermittent misfire. I have changed all the coils and plugs and the misfire is still present. The codes are showing a misfire in cylinder 3 but could be 4 too. The misfire is intermittent because this morning I changed the plugs and truck ran fine, drove to store and it started missing, turned truck off and started up and ran fine again. It has been doing this off and on for a few weeks.
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I have an 06 F350 with the 6.0 powerstroke. My battery light started coming on and will go out for a while, then come back on. Sometimes it flickers a little. I have checked/cleaned battery terminals (there was no corrosion). I have replaced the alternator. The batteries are just over a year old (10/12). I have not had any slow starting or any other symptoms other than the warning light. I am still having the same problems after replacing the alternator. I have checked with a voltage tester and it was reading 19+ when the light was off. When the warning light is on it was jumping from 12 - 15. This is an old tester so I'm not sure that it is working correctly. (not sure why I am getting the 19+). I'm going to go buy a new tester, but I was wondering if there is something else that could be causing the warning light. I know very little when it comes to electrical issues.
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2013 F250 Lariat. 4000 miles total on it. over half are a highway.Just wrapped up a trip up to Canada and back with work, not towing anything, and noticed on straight highway, i need to keep the wheel turned at roughly between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock... to go straight. Much of the time.
Some of the time, its normal, straight and true, but after 400 miles straight, when my left arm is tired because of holding tension into the steering system to go straight.......
Wondering if there is known steering drift with our trucks (like my dodge hemi had prior, which needed a stabilizer added from hell bent steel) or if this may be an issue. Not looking to bring it the hour back to the dealer, for him to tell me its just fine, because its heading true at the moment.
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Over the last few years my power windows in my '99 Super Duty have started working intermittently. The problem seems to be with both the main controls on the drivers door and the control on the passenger door. Sometimes both of them have problems operating, sometimes just one. Does not make a lot of sense. Could I have bad switches or do I need to check something else?
Rowland '99 Ford Super Duty 7.3 Diesel Dually
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Recently had an oil cooler EGR cooler replaced. On my first big tow broke down on a major highway. Got it towed to the dealership and diagnosed as a blown out IPR screen. Replace the entire IPR and had no problems the entire trip. A few week later I am sensing the same problems again that i had before the major blowout. Randomly while driving down the highway the truck will stall for a half second or so and then kick back in and continue fine. Seems like the truck loses fuel for a second and then regains itself.
And it's not always at speed either...sometimes just coming to a stop I can feel it. Now this has only happened three times in the past 10 days or so but seems like it needs to get addressed. These symptoms are similar to what I experienced before my major IPR blowout. After it was replaced I didn't have any of the stalling problems but its now happening again. Could I possibly have some gunk in the IPR again that's causing this intermittent problem? Or something else altogether?
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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I was taking my boat out of the lake last night. Shifted T-box into 4Low and removed the boat. I then tied everything up and when to shift back into 2Hi and it wont. I have a 2001 F350 diesel w/ automatic and the auto locking hubs.Hubs are not engaged atm. I have never had this issue before and was wondering if a shift solinoid is stuck or something might be wrong with my Transfer case??
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I am off to work tomorrow 800 Mile drive and I cant get this thing out of 4X4 Low. Tried driving (inching) back and forth. Got front end up on jacks to try to free up driveline... Is there any way to Manually put in 2WD. I just don't have time to run to town and get parts (new switching motor) if that is what the issue is?
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