Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - Shifting Delay When Cold Outside?
Dec 2, 2014
I have a 2000, F250, 7.3, automatic with 220,500 miles. When I purchased my truck used in 2008 (173,000 miles), i had the transmission rebulit by a ford dealership. Okay my problem is now that the weather is cooler here in Texas, when I back out of my parking spot in the morning, it takes several seconds for my truck to engage into drive. The rest of the day it works fine, only first thing in the morning. No problems driving (shifting) during the day.
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I have been having hard shifting from 1st-2nd when cold. Rpms up to 2000 and let off then goes into 2nd. After that, she shifts fine and shifts well until next morning when she sits overnight. Build tag is August 09, 2001, so no old mechanical diode? Took a sample of fluid and it is dark red (pic attached) and smells like hydraulic fluid...I don't think it smells burned. Does it sound like the calve body 1-2 shift or solenoid pack or needing rebuild?
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Today I noticed that our 5R110 was delaying slightly when shifting from drive to reverse. It was probably about a 1-2 second delay but it replicated itself twice in a row. There was no delay going from reverse to drive. It is just an engagement delay. We are running a Superchips Heavy Tow tune on the truck, it is a 2006 6.0 Powerstroke.
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I have a delay when I put my truck into gear. It only happens when I have turned the truck back on. It happens in forward as well as reverse. What is causing this? Syncros?
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My 2000 SD 7.3 has developed a quirk. For some reason the trans has decided to shift late in all gears. This only happens once, then resumes shifting normally. However the OD indicator on the shifter blinks from that point forward. Once the engine is shut down and restarted. The sequence starts again. Late shift, through the gears, once, then shifts normally with light blinking. Fluids are up and clean.
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My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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Well it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
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I have a 2006 F450 6.0 Super Heavy Duty. The Problem that I am having is when I turn the key it wont crank over. In order for it to start I have to hold the key in the crank position (like i am trying to start it) for about 20+ seconds, and then it will start cranking over. After it cranks over it starts just fine no problems. This only occurs when I start the truck up for the first time each day. After the initial start of the day its fine. (FYI I turn the ignition to the on position and just let it set it still takes me turning the key to the crank position and holding it 20+ seconds).
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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I have a 08 6.4l F250SD. At 127k miles, it has been a great truck. All service has been performed by dealer. When I shift from Park into drive there is a 3-5 second delay, and when it drops into drive the truck rocks. Once driving there are no shift issues. Into reverse there are no issues.
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Ok I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
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Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
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So I was driving earlier this morning and I noticed my overdrive light blinking, I didn't think much of it since I know the multi-function switch is bad and I haven't had time to change it yet, but a while later I was accelerating and just before it would shift from 2nd to 3rd it went to neutral. I played with the shifter a bit and found that if I shifted the column to 2nd I could drive in second, not a problem being only 3-4 miles from home.
I did a bit of digging and found I had blown the OBD2 fuse and saw a few people mention fuses as a possible shifting problem, Replaced that and still having issues. I have found that if i start out in drive I can shift into 2nd on the column then at the proper rpm put it back up into drive for 3rd and 4th. I just had the transmission re-built 400 miles ago and it is under warranty but I want to make sure it's not a computer or some other sensor before I call and bitch to them. I saw a couple posts referring to the shift solenoid but the problem was different.
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I have a 99 7.3 F350 with 5 speed manual with over 300,000 miles. Grinds bad shifting into 3rd, and nothing happens in 4th. I think it is a S5-47-ZF. Is a 6 speed manual comparable to bolt up to bell housing?
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On dads 04 f350 the 4wd first wasn't shifting to 4lo. Would do 4hi and 2wd fine. Then motor on t-case went bad. Replaced motor 2wd and 4hi still good still no 4lo. Then just 2wd so we unplugged t-case motor and power probed motor got it to do 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. So we thinking bad dash switch but power probed it and its working fine. So we r thinking VP4C3F-14B128-A/ chassis computer bad just behind/above glovebox. R there any test we can do to confirm its bad? We called local junk yards to see bout getting one, nobody had one. If this is indeed bad where is cheapest get one? What all years use this certain chassis computer??
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The other day I was driving to work and I noticed my truck wasn't accelerating right and the transmission wasn't shifting into high gear. Its almost like the truck went into neutral around 2000 rpm. What the issue could be? I really don't want to replace my transmission if I don't have to.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a 2012 F-250 ccsb lariat and the shift from 3 to 4 seems to be a bit prolonged as if the converter is slipping and wont go ahead and push it into 4 gear. Also it will want to downshift from 3 to 1 and feels like the car behind nailed you. I have read that the early 2011 had some of this problem and the dealer reflashed the tcm and it did not do much good but as mine being a 2012 mine should have been flashed with the lastest tcm flash from the get go?? Egr fell off and am running Kory Willis tunes through ez lynk so the stealership is probably out of the question. I have also read that changing a couple solenoids( dont remember which ones) will fix the problem.
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The tranny is shifting really hard between 2 and 3 if I feather the throttle it can be a little less of a jolt but still enough none the less iv never done a filter and fluid change as I just got it it has 235000 miles 99 v10 super duty 4x4....
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