Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - On Rotors Hot Spots And Cracks?
May 6, 2016
My 2000 F350 truck has been getting hotspots and cracks on it's rotors since I've bought it. So, for almost 16 years I have been replacing my rotors every two or so years. I've used cheap ones, expensive ones and ones with holes in them. It doesn't seem to make a difference! What have you done to fix it?
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I've replaced the pads and rotors on my 97 f250 HD, only to have constant squealing. I've replaced ranger rotors before with no problem but this has been an adventure. It's squeals constantly up to 35, (I've only went up to 35) and squeals louder under braking. Just looking for some pointers. Probably just need a good cleaning. The truck is parked until its fixed more than likely.
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was going to do a brake job on my f250 light duty and the rotors won't come off. At first I thought they were rusted on but after looking at them it looks like the studs are attached to the rotor. Need to confirm this because the new rotors I got don't have the hub attached. Don't know if it's the wrong part or what?
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Brake issues on 2005 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it's 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year.
Now currently I am assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it "professionally" checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn't want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can't imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Why they would so quickly?
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As the title states I just finished putting pads and rotors on the front of my 04' f250. I have had a terrible shutter almost a bouncing effect while braking over the last week or so, finally got around to doing the work and still no satisfaction! My question is where to go next? Wheel bearings and tires are good, I do get a pretty good wobble/vibration in the pedal while braking. Should I be looking at a brake booster or master cylinder? Or is it possible it's a caliper? Truck goes down the road fine until and brake is applied.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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i'm looking to upgrade my mirrors. A friend told me to get the 08+ mirrors but I can't find anywhere online that says they will work. I'm hopefully going to be purchasing on Amazon but not sure which ones to get. When I pull up the 08+ they say "Fits Ford 2008-2015 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 F250 F350 F450 F550 Super Duty"
Ive got the 2000 F250 V10
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I have a 00 F250 7.3 4x4 and I am looking to get better mileage out of it since it is now a dedicated work truck for towing. The two options I have in mind I think will work, but just wanted some clarification and if one is even possible.
First I will be taking the lift off and dropping back down to 33 inch tires or so. This should give me a little, but if not it should be easier on the truck for towing.
And this truck mostly see's highway miles, so I was thinking about disengaging the 4wd. I heard 4wd trucks get worse mileage, so this is the one I didn't even know if it was possible. not digging in to the computer and injectors quite yet.
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Have a 2000 F-250 V-10 4x4 with 335,000 miles on the clock. Has started hesitating at 40-45. You can't really notice it at idle. Drove it around at lower speeds and just a miss here and there. Take it up to 40-45 and it's quite bad. Hasn't thrown any codes. Hooked it up to the scanner to get no additional info. My gut says coil packs but am kinda confused that I haven't gotten a misfire code yet. What to check?
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A vibration has just begun on my 00 f250 power stroke it's in the left front and happens when I hit a bump I changed out the wheel bearing assembly and I switched locking hubs with another truck all with no success don't know what else it could be it does go away if I lock in the hubs so idk
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I have a 2000 I got new in sept of 99 its a good truck and id like to keep it as long as I can its got 173,000 on it I take care of it garaged kept and consistent fluid/filter changes all over top and bottom few minor addons like turbo bak exhaust from Silverline,auto meter gauges so I can monitor temps ,a bigger transmission pan aluminum I did years ago ,a gear vendor 8 speed addon years ago,diablo predator tuner with the 80 horse tune been doing great for a quite a while lately I noticed if I leave it idling in park for a few minutes while in a store r sumpn it won't shift outa 3rd its like overdrive is turned off I have to pull over and kill&restart 7.3 and take off its fine what in the wide wide world a sports is happening my overdrive switch has been out for a couple years I just haven't replaced it yet it gradually got worse when using it id have to pull shift lever in to get it to engage then put in neutral then in park now cant get it to work at all hopefully I can fix it myself but my luck is never that good.
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2000 super duty v10 with 92,000 miles. Getting that common rattle around 2k rpm range that goes away if I give it gas or let off. I originally thought it was the inspection plate on the transmission so I removed it and went for a drive to verify. The sound is still present so the only thing I can think of is the catalytic converter is worn out??
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Got a 2001 F350 diesel auto, 295k miles.
It has miss when over 2000rpm. Below 2000 its smooth.
ICP has oil in sensor, ordered new one. Gonna change oil too.
CPS is new (not sure if its black or the other one). Starts idles and drives good otherwise.
Where should I look?
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What torque setting I should use for lug nuts on a 2000 F-350 dually?
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
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The V10 in my service truck took the long slow ride. I located and am in the middle of replacing said engine. My question is, how difficult would it be to install a second alternator in this truck, considering I have it torn down for replacement?
It a 2000 F350 with a V10. I'm looking for more power as I have mounted on the Knaphiede service body a IMT 1015 crane, 3200 lb capacity. I would like to install a power inverter to be able to run an air compressor in the field.
Am I looking for a new harness? Etc?
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I want to put in a SPD Y pipe. They make 2 different ones, 99-00 and 00-04. I have a 2000 and so I've been trying to figure out which one. The SPD website's phone number goes straight to voice mail and it's inbox is full. 5 star tuning who sell's these as well told to me to just "get under the truck and see"... I'm no exhaust pro so I don't know what to look for. I just went to a ford dealership and their diagrams where the same but it did show there were different part numbers for the two different styles, so they couldn't work either. It says on SPD's website that the exhaust configuration changed somewhere in 2000. So, what to look for in the difference. Maybe a picture of a 99 y pipe and 01 y pipe would work?
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All of the sudden ignition stays on aux when the key is removed. Starts and runs fine with key , also shuts off with key. However when key is removed all aux functions still work ie touchscreen reciever will not turn off, and door chime continues to ding. 2000 excursion 4x4
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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I have a bucking and jerking 6.0 right now. It will buck and then won't go above 2000 rpm or it will lurch or if I hold the pedal down lose power unless I drop it below 2000rpm. If I put the pedal down the truck wont go above 2000 rpm and will go up on speed. the erg was deleted but its trowing crazy amount of white smoke from the exhaust. When the truck starts up some white smoke comes out but eventually clears up when you keep it under 2000 rpm.
When on idle you can step down the pedal and hear the truck failing on revs like an injector issue but i checked and they arent the problem. the problem got fixed for a couple of weeks when i changed the Y pipe because the other was ruptured but the problem came back and its even worse now i can use the truck for nothing.
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