I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
View 7 RepliesAre just the bearings serviceable/replaceable or is the only option to get entire wheel hub assembly?
View 14 RepliesQuestion. My Son borrowed my 2006 4-wheel F-350 and broke down in Vermont. 8 hrs from me. Told me he heard some noises from the left front and then the abs light came on. I had him jack up the front and check for bearing play in the left front. Alas, He said between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. I bought the new hub and bearing assembly to drive up there with tomorrow morning. The locking hub will come right off. I just replaced them 4 months ago. I will be bringing a crap load of tools, but anything specific i should bring? I wont have torches so I am hoping the hub will brake free.
View 3 RepliesSo I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
View 4 RepliesWell, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
My hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
So I noticed the past few days my 09 F250 was clunking in the front end when turning hard even with the hubs in auto so I knew there was an issue in there somewhere. This morning I took the jack and found the passenger side would not release no matter which way the lock was turned. Pulled the locking assembly out and found a couple of the pieces of plastic cage broken (truck has 250k miles) which is to be expected I guess but the locking ring that holds the inner piece that slides over the axle stub was off and hanging next to the c-clip on the axle.
So with the plastic of the cage already being broke and the mileage on the truck it's clear I need a new lock for that side.
Here's my dilemma, I have to deliver a conference room table 200 miles away tomorrow morning that they need for meeting tomorrow afternoon at 3:00pm. I cut the rest of the plastic pieces and took the gears out leaving just the cover with the diaphragm and put it back on the hub. I can't come up with any logical reason why I can't drive the truck this way but just want to bounce it off the experts here before I take off on a 400 mile trip in the morning. The only thing I can come up with is if I were to engage the 4wd the vacuum might suck the auto-lock diaphragm in and pop it but otherwise I can't find any reason to not run it this way, the hub is still sealed up and free-wheeling just like if it were in 2wd anyway.
I have a lot of play in my front suspension and steering components. At first I thought it was my old tires, so I had them replaced and that worked, but there is still quite a lot of play. I would describe it at loose steering.
I went to get an alignment and they said they couldn't do it because of too much play in the tie rod end.
So that is going to get replaced. What else is down there, bushing wise, that I should replace to eliminate play and rejuvenate my steering?
I can't figure out how to get my front brake rotors off to replace them. I removed the caliper and thought the rotors should just come right off but they didn't? I then pulled the hub out and there was a retaining ring with a good size nut behind it , but you shouldn't have to remove the hubs to remove the brake rotors should you?
The stats of the truck are 04 f250 4wd w/manual hubs!
Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
View 1 RepliesYesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
The driver side front body mount bushing on my 2014 is gone which has the grill sitting on the bumper. I started to replace it, but the bolt is sized to the nut. ran off about 1/2 inch and that is it, it will not tighten or loosen anymore.
I cut the head off the bolt, but can not get the body high enough to remove the old bushing so i can cut the nut off flush with the rad support. Now I am trying to get the air filter box out so i can cut the top of the "nut cage" off to remove the bolt and nut out the top. but i can not figure out how it is held in.
I have the intake disconnected and the filter hat off, overflow tank hose disconnected, and two bolts holding the whole thing to the fender out, but it will still not budge. What am I missing here?
I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
View 13 RepliesI own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesI use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 f250 sd that I removed the front grill and noticed 3 of the clips that hold the lower part of the grill in (bolts on the top) are broke. I went to the local Ford dealer for the clips and was told I have to buy the whole complete grille for it. The parts breakdown doesn't show the clips sold individually from the grille.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 F250, CCSB, 6.0L, Fx4, Lariat.
I am trying to replace the passenger side front hub. I either have a bad hub, or I am not installing it properly. I have it installed with the locking hub unlocked and trying to turn the hub, the entire passenger side axle spins. It is also very hard to turn it. I strapped axle, and the hub is almost impossible to turn, with or with out the actual hub installed.
This is the second hub that I installed with the same results. I''m not ruling out bad out of the box, but it is the second one I installed today.
If front wheel bearings can be greased through the abs wire hole on a f250 4X4, will that work on a sealed bearing on a gm product? I have done my f250 but I also have a 2004 suburban.
View 2 Replies1. Why does my front end hop when only turning right in 4 wheel drive?
2. O nly one of my back tires spin, so does that mean that when I put it in 4 wheel drive I only have 3 tires spinning?
oh I got a 2001 xl 5.4 f250 and is this normal
I have a 2000 F350 4X4 crew cab and have a vibration in the front end. I have done sone investigating and have come to the conclusion that is the front wheel bearings. The dealers says I have to buy the entire hub assemble but I seem to think different. But if I can replace the bearings any special tools that might make it easier ..
View 14 RepliesI replaced my steering gearbox with a remanufactured oem gearbox (no, not the redhead. I wish I'd had the extra money but I didn't.) I replaced the factory sway bar (1.25" diameter) with the Excursion sway bar that came on my axle (1.4" diameter) along with polyurethane bushings and greaseable end links. I replaced wheel bearings, ball joints, track bar bushings, tierods (ends, sleeves, the whole nine yards). Literally everything from the gearbox down, besides the pitman arm, is brand new.
The next day I took it in and got it aligned at Goodyear. The steering is noticeably more responsive, but I still have 1-2" of play either way before I get a response. I'm skeptical about tightening the gearbox. I did that on the old one and it improved steering for a couple years, but this new one shouldn't require any tightening.
I have yet to install new steering stabilizers, but I can recognize bump steer versus this problem on a straight, smooth road. I'm sure the stabilizers won't change the 2 inches of play.