Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - Installing Second Alternator?
Dec 14, 2014
The V10 in my service truck took the long slow ride. I located and am in the middle of replacing said engine. My question is, how difficult would it be to install a second alternator in this truck, considering I have it torn down for replacement?
It a 2000 F350 with a V10. I'm looking for more power as I have mounted on the Knaphiede service body a IMT 1015 crane, 3200 lb capacity. I would like to install a power inverter to be able to run an air compressor in the field.
Am I looking for a new harness? Etc?
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I have a 2000 excursion that stopped charging. The battery light is on . I replaced the alternator but it still will not charge. I have checked all the fuses. Not sure where to go from here...
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My truck has been sitting for 3 years and I want to bring it back from retirement. I changed oil, checked fluids, replaced the starter, starter solenoid/relay and tossed in a 2 yr old charged battery (800CA). She would not turn over and I jumped with another vehicle. She turned right over and with an insane dust cloud! I went to disconnect jumped cables and it died. I assume the alternator is shot.
Jumped again to bring up to temp so I could check tranny fluid. It was running for about 5 minutes and just quit. Nothing mechanically to my knowledge caused this. It quit peacefully. I went to fire it back up and all I get is a click at relay on inner fender. The new one. Even while jumping..... What I should test/diagnose next.
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2000 f350 7.3 .. I'm having a horrible time trying to figure out why my truck is draining down the batteries. I can charge my batteries over night and put hem in and the truck will run for a few hours but then it dies completely. The alternator seems to be running really hot afterward like it is being over worked. I put in 2 different alternators and 2 new batteries and it didn't fix the issue.
I then put in a new starter relay. Still having the same issue. I believe I have a short because I tested for it but am unable to locate the short. I heard if you over work the bushings in the starter they can ground out on the casing which will cause something similar to this to happen. I work in ND and had to cold start it in - temperatures the morning this all began. I purchased a new starter but don't want to put it in if that is not the issue.
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I have a 1999 f-250 sd 4x4 that had a 5.4L auto trans and a switch operated transfer case. Im installing a 1998 12v Cummins, nv4500 5 speed, and dodge manual shift transfer case. My father and I have made engine mounts, modified trans cross member, and installed a 1/2 " dip tube into fuel tank an used 1/2" fuel line to connect to factory Cummins fuel line. We are now to the worst part now "WIRING". I still have the OEM gasser 5.4 wiring harness. I bought bushings to install ford coolant temp probe and ford oil pressured sensor. I got my harmonic balancer machined with 2 more notches for ford cam/crank sensor pickups but I'm just confused after reading a few different postings about tach. I guess just need a run down on the 12v wiring to the 5.4 pcm. I would like all factory dash gauges to work right, cruise control, and A/C to work. My 12v still has dodge alt and dodge a/c compressor. I ve bought a bunch of parts so after you post to this ill let you know if I have it or not. Things like ford clutch and brake pedal sets, ford OEM manual transfer case shifter setup, bushings for ford sensors to Cummins, and other things I've forgot about.
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I am going to be installing puddle lights to light up my step bars and I am looking to find out which wire to tie into? I was going to tie into the dome light circuit (blk/blue) so they would come on with keyless entry door unlock, but my dome light won't come on. So I either have to figure that out or go to plan B and find a difference source. Adding lights down there and found another way to power these? I don't know if extended cabs ever had the option for lighted running boards, maybe there is a dedicated wire somewhere? I don't want them on all the time, only when the truck is unlocked to light the step.
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Got my 240 amp alternator in and had all new 1/0 GA battery cables with a 250amp fuse in line made to do all new lines. I started tonight and found a small line going from the alt connector down the power line to a fuseible link (fuse) all in the power line
I wanna do away with the main 4 ga alt wire but obviously I can't do anything with that line going to the plug. Can I put a connector on it and wire that into the one side of the 250amp fuse.
The only other option is to add a wire to beef up the stock line ....
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I have had this whining noise that I'm not sure what it is. It sounds like its comin from the alternator area. There are three symptoms that are confusing me though, 1st is I only hear this whine as the weather starts getting colder and the colder it is the louder it is. 2nd is it only happens around 1800rpms like when it's getting ready to shift to the next gear. I can get it to whine when I'm parked and bringing the rpms up. 3rd is after 10-15 minutes when the truck is warmed up - no more whine. The truck is used very little duing the summer and I had this whine all winter last year. Alternator appears to be working fine and I do plow a few driveways every storm. Money is tight so I don't want to replace the Alternator an find it wasn't the problem.
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I had my leveling kit installed today. Bilstein 2" leveling coils, adjustable track bar, 4" rear blocks, and shocks front and rear.
I have 295/70/18 tires on stock wheels that didn't rub anywhere before. Now at full lock to the left the drivers side tire just barely rubs on the radius arm. How is that possible? I was planning on getting 35s soon when these wear out but it seems like those would rub even worse.
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How much better stopping power can be achieved by installing an upgrade brake kit? There are several kits on the web. Upgrade kit? Pros/Cons.
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I have a 1999 ford f250 superduty extended cab and am trying to find possible subwoofer locations (not wanting to lose floor space) but I can't find any pre-made boxes. Any pictures I can use as reference. Really wanting to install subwoofers. What can I do?
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My trouble is that the alternator light on my 2004 F-250 Diesel began to come on occasionally, but never constant. Taking in the fact that it was still the original alternator, and over 70,000 miles, I figured it was time for a new one. I installed the new one and after two days the light came on again. I tested the alternator and it read 13.84 volts while running. With the engine shut off, I had 12.59, and 12.6 volts at the batteries. What may be my problem? Diesel down.
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I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
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I am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
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OK I have 14.04 volts at the batteries with the engine running but my battery light is on. I had the alternator checked off the engine and on the engine and it tests good. Shows good batteries and good charging. Is there something internal to the alternator that would make the light come on even though the alternator is charging ok? Or is there something else that would make the light come on. This is on a 1999 F250 Superduty Powerstroke 7.3.
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2002 f350 super cab 7.3 diesel, replaced alternator because wasn't getting charge to batts, Napa guy checked batts and determined no charge, replaced alt, still no charge, have 12v at alt post with engine running or not. My ? is, is there a fuse in here somewhere that I'm missing? Went through all fuses in fuse panel all good.
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I have a 1999 f-350 V-10. My battery light came on, making me believe that my alt. has quit. I can't see the plaque on the alt so I can't tell the amps. Does my serial number on the truck tell the amps, or do i have to remove the alt to check the amps?
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I just purchased a donor wheel from ebay... it was the right price, and I'll turn around and sell the shell and the switches when I pull the wires out.
I'm looking forward to the wheel getting here. I expect to be able to swap the wiring harness inside the wheel and then be able to add the redundant audio control switches. This should leave me with the impossible setup of having a black vinyl wheel with cruise and audio controls.
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I just picked up a 2001 Ford F350 4x4 7.3 SRW last week. I've been slowly going through the truck replacing everything. One thing I've always liked on trucks is the cab clearance lights, which this one doesn't have (it's a base XLT with no options).
So I looked on Amazon and ended up ordering this....
But then I realized that the harness isn't included, and I can't find it for sale anywhere. I searched the Ford parts site but can't seem to find it.
I'm thinking about returning those lights and getting this set: [URL] .... But I'm not 100% sure that the harness that's included will fit my truck, it only says Ford.
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So I was going to get the truck washed, but 2 blocks down the road smoke out of the engine bay.
Pulled over popped the hood and the alternator is on fire. Extinguished it self out but the burnt electrical smell.....sheesh..
Anyways, could I potentially drive the truck to the dealer, or will it catch on fire again????
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My alternator quit charging last night. Was pretty much a sudden onset as I was driving down the road and left off the accelerator the battery light came on and lights dimmed a bit. When I stepped on the accelerator again they bat. light went off and the lights came back up.
At idle I'm at 11.77v. I've pulled the plug on the back of the alternator and I'm getting voltage on both the red and green wires that go into the plug with the engine running. Is this correct?
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