Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F550 - Headlights No Longer Work
Apr 9, 2014
Recently removed a plow and wiring harness from my 00 F550 and now my headlights no longer work. The headlight plugs have an adapter that the plow harness plugged in to and it now appears I need some type of end plug on each one to complete the circuit. The problem is the dealer doesn't understand what I need and doesn't think there is such a part out there. Perhaps my thinking is all wrong.
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 minutes after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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I'm working on a 2000 7.3 that was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start ...
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I have a 'new-to-me' Ford F-550 with the vaunted 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine. The truck only has 120k miles and ran great when I bought it. Last week it began acting up. While driving on the highway, it lost power, began running rough, and once I pulled over, it died.
After a few minutes, I tried re-starting the truck, it started, but had little to no power....I could get up to 30-35mph and then it would slow down and lost all power. I let the truck sit for about 20 minutes while I refilled the diesel tank, it started right up and drove normally for another 10-15 minutes and then the same thing happened again.
The truck sat for a day and then drove normally for two entire days. This morning, it began acting up. It is the same as before..... what to do with this type of issue?
There is not a check engine light lit (yes, it works). The diesel is from a good source that is not causing problems in anything else. The truck is otherwise strong.
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I screwed up installing LED taillight assemblies in my 2011 SuperDuty and pinched a couple of wires against the body. The result of this (at least I think that this cause) is that my backup lights no longer work - neither the backup lights in the tail light assembly nor the reverse light power on the trailer plug. I have checked the fuses, etc. and nothing. I brought it to a local shop and they could not figure out the problem, either, but said that it was probably the "control module" that got fried when the wires got pinched. They said to take it to the dealer. The questions are, what "control module" might they be referring to, or what to check?
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Having an issue w/ my 00 550. When I lock in the hubs there is instantly a noise, More of a squealing then a grinding. The truck goes in and out of 4x4 no problem and the noise is there locked in 4x4 and not locked in, as long as the hubs are locked in. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the 4x4 driveshaft but there is no noticeable play in the u-joints or the u-joints in the front axle. I did notice when I spin the 4x4 shaft by hand the passenger side joint spins slower then the driver, not sure if that's normal or could be the problem.
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I'm having problems with my front marker lights. The turn signals work but when I turn on the parking lights or headlights they don't work. They only work with the turn signals. And I can't get the front side marker lights to come on. I've tried everything...
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Ok, so I am trying to get are 99 F550 all fixed up and have a few things to ask.
So we have had the ABS light on now for some time. I had it scanned at O Riley's and the scanner said the abs sensor on the passenger side was faulty. So I replaced that and the light was still on. We had taken the truck to ford to get it checked out for a rear end problem we have been having as some of you may know from a previous post I made.
Well ford said it was the rear sensor on the axle that was causing the abs light to come on. So I replaced that. Still have the abs light on. I disconnected the batteries to try and see if that would reset it and it did not. I hooked up the Scan Gauge II and ran to see if it picked up anything. It said it did not pick up any thing. I still did a code clear but it didn't work. If there a tricky way that you have to get the code cleared off?
2nd I was checking the fluid. I noticed that the tranny fluid is over filled quite a bit. Will this hurt it? Should I drain the fluid to where its at the fill line?
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I just bought a 2000 super duty F250 Triton V10 and the auto door locks don't work. They try to work as in tug an eighth of an inch but won't successfully engage or disengage. Thought it might just be the switch inside the door handle but they don't work on the passenger side etc either.
Also two days after I bought it I found out first hand that these motors spit out spark plugs and i had to replace the plug and coil. I was told that there is a tool that I can tap out the heads with and then put inserts in so i no longer have this problem. Where do i get that tool and how much are they? Is it true that pulling the plugs can strip out the heads because i bought all new plugs for the truck and was then told that it will strip out the heads.
How many quarts of oil does this engine hold and should i use a certain type of oil? It has high miles but purrrr'ss like a kitten.
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I have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
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OK, so I have the brake pedal downshifting, but there is no real exhaust brake. Can I have one installed, like the latter model 2015 or even the 2016, with the button?
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I have a 2008 f-550 diesel. Had water in fuel. Flushed the entire system. Replaced the fuel filters and injectors but still will not start.
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It has a 7.3 bone stock in it. When it is cranking you can hear a relay clicking. it's behind the dash just below the radio. There are 3 relays together 1 big one which is for trailer lights and 2 small ones which i don't know where they go. but i replaced all 3 and i still hear the clicking ONLY when the engine is cranking.
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I have a new 2013 F-550 Lariat 200" WB on order. I can and will increase the combination weight on the truck, to make full use of the 19, 500 gvwr. My question is how much will a current F-550 pull on a 5th wheel/gooseneck style trailer before it becomes dangerous? I plan to set the truck up with an 11ft aluminum Eby flat body, with a Holland FW6000 5th wheel placed under the body. I am considering a 35 or 40 ft flat gooseneck.
The combination weight would be changed based upon the axles I choose to put under the trailer. Two 12k axles will give me 44,000 gcwr, two 15k axles will give me 50,000 gcwr, and two 16k axles would give me a 51,000 gcwr. The truck will be able to carry about 10,000-11,000, the trailer needs to take the rest. I am confident that 44,000 gcwr will not be a problem, but the idea of 50,000, or 51,000 really makes me question safety. So, how much have you hauled with a F-550, and a gooseneck trailer?
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New to me 2012 F550 parking lights will not go off. Battery disconnected now. Touch battery cable parking lights come on.
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I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
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I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
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I have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
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I am trying to figure out where the relay would be when i look online for the map of the relay box under the hood it says nothing of a horn relay. I don't have a key fob for the doors to unlock so I wouldn't think its tied to the computer. Should mention nothing happens when you hit the horn also fuse is fine. No power at the actual horn when i hit the steering wheel(horn)....
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Really love my 2013 F550 but the door chime is driving me crazy. On my 2003 f150 you could just drop the column cover and unhook one wire running to the tumbler. So I had a look and found it to be totally different. How to unhook it on this truck?
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I bought a new Motorcraft door latch for my F550 because the door latch won't stay latched. You close the door firm and it seats well then pops loose the first bump in the road. I found all kinds of OEM replacment latches all over the internet but nowhere can I find any instructions or videos or any talk of the best way to go about replacing the door latch. I know they wear out from constant use on the drivers side.
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