Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F450 - Convert 225 To 170 Mm From Front Axle?
Jun 27, 2013
Tried converting the 10 lug to 8x6.5 and didn't work. so now i found a 2000 F450SD 8x225mm monotube front axle but just got my hands on a '99 F350 4.10 DRW axle 8x170mm....can I bolt the 8x170 hubs (spacers as its a dually front axle) up front? not sure if the bolt pattern on the rotor will work...
I was thinking adapters up front as i can widen the front track abit if i had to, but dont want to go 170mm to 225 adapters out back, as i think its too much weight for those... I will have a front 90 F-superduty 10 lug set up....
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How do I get the front axles out of of the knuckle? It seems like the seals are holding them in? Is there any trick to to getting them out,I am trying to do my ball joints
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I have a 2000 F450, 7.3, 4x4, dually, VIN 1FDXF47F0YEA44380, with 30k miles, That needs a new rear axle - hub retainer threads on axle housing are stripped (nut welded on by previous owner). This axle is a case ID F81A-4001-BK, 4.88 ratio, 11.25 ring gear, with a 41.5" spring center. I have heard that the '99-'02 axles had issues until Ford switched over to the later square housed axles in 2002 or 2003 (Dana 110, I think). Is it possible to adapt these later (2002- 2004) axles onto a 2000 F450? And if so, what would be involved?
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I found a wracked 2000 f350 v10 4wd dually with 4.10 and I was wondering if I could convert it to single and swap that to my 05 v10 4wd Excursion upgrades to dana60 for 40's.... Is it possible?
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The issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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Im working on a 03 f-450 that has a front end vibration, it starts when you hit 25 mph and its a humming / vibration that seems more to the passenger side than the drivers side. You can also hear it decrease when you come down in speed and it dissappears below 25 mph. Its a 2003 F-450 CC 4x4 DRW with the v-10.
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I have a 2000 ford f450 with the 7.3. the truck sat for about three month and now it won't turn over. When I put the key in to start it only the airbag light and abs light up. when i got to turn it over I can hear the starter just click but the engine wont crank. I have checked the batteries and the starter and they are all good. i have also checked the shiftier position sensor on the tranny and it fine.
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Overdrive light started flashing this week on my 2000 F450 7.3 mason dump. It only does it when it shifts into 4th gear once it hits that gear at about 35mph the overdrive light flashes until you restart the truck and it resets. Does the same thing all the time but DOESN'T flash if i'm driving around town on back roads and never get to that gear. Could this be something minor besides the transmission starting to go? It drives and shifts fine even when the light is flashing. I wait to get the error code read?
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I turn off the key and remove it. The engine shuts down but everything else stays on, the radio, heater fan, etc. I tried to search the forum but couldn't find anything about this problem. I'm guessing there is a stuck relay or a bad ignition switch.
2000 F450 7.3 PSD automatic 4X4
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OD light flashes on my 2000 F450 7.3 but still runs and drives shifts fine. If i turn o/d off before i get going then it won't throw the code and start flashing at all. I am going to check the harness again to see if there are any bad wires. If not is it usually a bad solenoid pack i can just swap it out and fix the problem? I have to replace the pan soon so when I do if I need to replace the pack I'd like to do it then.
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I've had the 450 a little over two years. Its used 95% of the time for hauling trailers, including the toy hauler. Has not given me a single problem since day one and now has around 21,000 on the odometer.
Lately I've noticed a "grinding" sound coming from the front end somewhere. It is most apparent when I'm turning at slow speeds; especially left. To describe it would be similar to worn out brake pads or maybe a wheel bearing going bad. It does it whether I'm on the brakes or not.
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I have a friend who just burned up his transmission. He needs to get on the road as quickly and cheaply as possible (he uses this truck for work).
We found a local 2wd 4r100 out of a 2000 but it is for a 2wd rig. His pickup is an 2001 F250 7.3. 4x4.
What is involved in setting up the 2wd transmission for the transfer case. We can salvage parts from his old transmission if need be.
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2014 F450. Front end and steering wheel shake violently when braking while towing a 20,000 pound trailer down a long and steep highway grade. It does not happen when towing my 12,000 pound trailer down the same highway. Could I be setting off the ABS braking system?
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I thought there was a v10 specific superduty section like how the psd does, but my thread went in the "performance, engine, troubleshooting" section.
I wanted more exposure than that particular small viewed area.
I don't have a video of the noise, but my 99 f450 v10 5spd has some iffy noise coming from the front. I've read so many threads on this and they either end with "my motor had 1-2-3 bad pistons" or "my flexplate was cracked" and all that dealt with chain tensioners were never finished.
I know what piston slap sounds like (worked on many cobras and lightnings with forged pistons that had it) and have experience with bad wrist pins and broken piston skirts, and this noise doesn't sound like any of it.
Noise is a loud clicking/clunking/Detroit diesel idle noise. When you rev the engine up it doesn't lighten or get better, only worse as rpm goes up. Oil is terrible looking, I'll be getting that changed this week.
Story on truck. I've had this thing for 4 years with blown motor. I got a buddy that acquired a parts truck and he said it ran good. I dropped my truck off and he swapped the engine. I got my truck back running, but with this engine noise. He said it needs to get run some more and change oil.
I think it's timing tensioners, my buddy says it will come out of it, a mechanic friend says it's going to blow up "because they all do" and I don't really want to replace the engine again.
If it's tensioners, how big of a job is it. I have the cam clamps and crank stop and the ford tools to make sure crank and cams don't rotate while apart.
I'm just 650 miles from my truck and may need someone else to do the work. Which sucks.
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I have 2009 F-450 6.4L Diesel with 41K miles and just started to have a noise that can be heard up in the CAB of the truck while driving or idling. It sounds like a dry ball bearing that would go bad in home computer AC power supply or CPU cooling fan. The sound starts when the engine is at full operating temperature and most noticeable and the loudest if you are standing in front of the engine at idle outside.
Checked all fluids and they are normal. Turning the steering wheel doesn't affect the sound either or turning off the AC. Check engine light has not come on. The only thing I have noticed is that clutch fan stays on a very long time after starting cold and takes about a mile or two before it disengages. The truck is only used to tow a 36' 5th wheel and sits the majority of the time.
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I plan to be buying a 2000 F250 V10 in a couple of hours.
I had my boss run by and take a picture of the door tag so I could determine the axle code. What he sent me was this:
Other than giving me the knowledge of how bad of a photographer he is, it doesn't tell me much else. The axle code area is blank, what gives? Am I just going to have to crawl under the truck when I get there after work?
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I have a 2015 F250, cc 4X4 PSD. It has 22,000 miles on it. I notice a small quarter sized drop of oil after it is parked by the right side front wheel. It is coming from behind the dust cover and universal joint where the axle goes into the tube. I dont know how long it has been leaking. My issue is I am about 800 miles from home on a camping trip, have to go back to work Monday, and lcoal dealer here can't take it in till next week. So, if the hubs are not locked and the truck is in 2 wheel drive, the gears shouldn't be turning right? I assume it is ok to drive home. I didn't want to pull the plug and check the fluid because if any runs out and leaves a stain on the cover, I don't want ford trying to deny warranty claiming I messed with it first.
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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I have a slight problem and don't know how serious it is. I own a 2003 F350 with a lift kit. After my drive shaft shattered last September. due to a U-Joint a clicking noise started up in the front axle area after we locked the hubs so we could crawl it down the road out of traffic.
What would be the likely causes and how much would a typical repair/replace cost?
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