Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 - Transmission Shifts Fine With Disabled O/D?
Mar 24, 2015
And if I have to sift through one more "My O/D light is blinking."
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC with several issues but right now I'd like to address the one plaguing my transmission. If I crank the truck and take off it will not shift out of first gear, well it might but it'll take a while, be at high rpms, and a hard shift, throwing the 1-2 shift error code. Now if I disable O/D with the button on the shifter and take off it shifts through all gears fine. I can drive it normally and if I hit the highway, when I'm up to speed I can enable O/D, it shifts into O/D and I can keep on trucking. When I stop I disable O/D and take off normally again. After about 10 minutes of driving and several start/stops even with O/D disabled it will eventually throw the 1-2 shift error code and give me a harder shift into 2nd and I guess enters its limp mode but is still drivable. This appears to be the only code dealing with the transmission.
Due to the fact that it shifts fine with O/D disabled, doesn't skip any gears, and I can manually shift it through 1-2-D I'm guessing it's not the mechanical diode I've heard so much about but an electrical issue. Before I bought this truck it had been abused, at one point the front driveshaft came loose and ripped the wiring harness going to the TRS in half. They soldered it back together but it still looks a little rough. I figure this is a good place to start. What readings I should get at the TRS? Sensor side and plug side. I have the AE enhanced ford bundle and a good DVM. If the TRS can't cause an issue like this where do I go from here, shift solenoid?
TLDR Version
2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC
Won't shift out of first with O/D enabled.
Shifts fine with O/D disabled.
Can manually shift through all gears.
Eventually throws 1-2 shift error code.
TRS/TRS Harness has been damaged in the past.
Appears to be an electrical issue with the transmission.
Can the TRS cause an issue like this?
How do I test the TRS/Harness?
If not the TRS what could it be, shift solenoid?
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
View 1 Replies
2003 F350 5.4, 4R100 trans.... I've had this truck parked for a few years but want to get it into service for farm use.
In park or neutral, it revs great, idles a bit rough but not terrible. But in drive under load it I can't get it above 1500rpm most times unless going downhill, and then it shifts very late, and I have to get it up to 3500rpm and then let the throttle off to get it to shift. It does better in 4Lo with shifting, but it's still very sluggish.
Now it says to check fluid level in Park at idle. When I do this, I just get fluid on one side of the dipstick, not a full dip as you'd see on an oil dipstick. And the wet on the fluid goes up past the hash marks quite a bit. I'm use to seeing the dipstick get oil all the way across, and then a bit higher just up the edges, but have always read it at the full cover point.
I suspect low fluid, but I'm not really sure with the way the stick reads. I was thinking of draining it all and then filling to spec as per: [URL] .... but have a long drive to go get MerconV.
View 1 Replies
02 f350 xl with factory cd player. I have power going to the unit like the clock but will not turn on completely. I have checked all the radio fuses and they are fine. I also swapped another factory radio from another one of my trucks and it does the same thing. Any thoughts?
View 4 Replies
I recently purchased a 2011 F-350 w/6.7 diesel. When I first start it & let it run say 30 seconds and take off it shifts fine from 1 to 2 but when it goes from 2-3 it hangs there a second and then finally shifts into 3rd hard. 3rd to 4th is ok but 4-5 again is a hard shift and from 5 to 6 is OK. It will do this for a while like through the neighborhood and down the road 10 miles then it is fine. Shifts beautifully when warmed up.
My local Ford dealer has a guy that is supposed to be very knowledgeable with Super Duty trucks. I have had it to him twice and he says this is normal. All shift hard until the transmission is up to operating temperature. Says the engine is very powerful and until everything is up to temperature this will happen. If so then it would be normal to let it sit and run for a while before you take off in the morning. I am getting ready to hook the truck up to my 33' camper and go on our first camping season with the trailer/truck combination and if I need to leave it sit and warm up I will.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 34000 miles and my Transmission shifts hard between 2-3 and 4-5 took it to the Ford dealer and they said it is the shift solenoids are bad but it is cause from the Powertrain Control Module and its not covered by the warranty because it is part of the emission system.
View 4 Replies
My daughter has this truck and I was driving it the other day I noticed it misfiring when the trans shifts down under a slight pull and/or going up hills. It looses power and speed when this happens but if you back off, it smooths out when it shifts into overdrive. I haven't had it to a mechanic to check any codes yet.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1994 F-250 XLT heavy duty model. No warning lights are on. A few times a month my transmission will start shifting hard, kicking into the next gear. The odd thing is, if I reset the computer it stops. Shifts smooth as butter. The fluid is a vibrant red and the fluid looks great like it's new. What is going on? I'm getting tired of having this happen. The truck has 108,500 miles on it.
View 10 Replies
I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
View 1 Replies
It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
View 12 Replies
I've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
View 14 Replies
I recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
View 6 Replies
I'm getting a really choppy low RPM drive. If I'm above 2-2.5k rpm it runs okay but as soon as it drops under 2.5k it starts to run very choppy and loses power and Boggs in and out of power regardless of how much throttle input I give it. I had a tune up done last year and a recent oil change...
View 1 Replies
Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
View 5 Replies
The 4wd on my 2000 f350 has just stopped working? I have used it a few times since getting it a few months ago and then last night I was going to play paintball in the woods and the 4wd would not engage? when i put it in 4wd it would act like the truck is in neutral and then it lurched forward? The front hubs have the option on them to turn, but I never had to turn them before and they do not move when I tried to? What could be causing the 4wd not to function?
View 4 Replies
So I've got a 2000 F350 7.3. Just replaced all the ball joints, sway bar end links, carrier bearing, balanced the tires... a bunch of stuff to try and eradicate this weird wobble I have and I just can't seem to figure out what it is.
The wobble happens at and around 35mph, and then once I break 70mpis on the speedo (I have a 4" lift and am running 35's so it's not actually 70). I've experienced death wobble before in a jeep I had, and it is nothing like that, and I can't see it being driveline related but I could be wrong.
View 1 Replies
Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
View 1 Replies