Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 Takes Forever To Start When Cold / Water In Fuel Light Keeps Kicking In
Apr 12, 2016
So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
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My 2000 F-350 during fill-ups will spill out about a quart or more of gas from under the truck somewhere right when the filler clicks off. Also can smell fuel sometimes when between half and full tank. 2000 f350 SWR crew-cab 4x4, 5.4 gas.
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My water in fuel light came on today so after I get to work I drain the filter like I do monthly and notice the sensor wire had come unplugged. I assume I did not get it plugged in good after my last filter change a couple weeks ago. I replugged the wire and drained the fuel, which was clean but now the light stays on. Is there a reset for the light? It has never come on before in 80k miles. 2011 F250 6.7 Powerstroke.
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I have a 01 f350 7.3 turbo dsl. will not start cold. engine turns over fine. plug into block heater over nite , will start! outside temp does not make difference. I have replaced glow plugs, glow plug relay, wiring harness under valve covers. Where to go from here?
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I recently bought this truck. and the original owner said since he owned it after a couple of minutes after starting it will say water in fuel in the info monitor. I press esc or whatever it goes away and doesn't come back until the engine is shut off and turned back on again. What might be the issue?
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2005 6.0 F250 super duty ... I was getting the water in fuel light as I have in the past. I drained the fuel pump on the frame like always, but it came back. So I changed the filters thinking this would do it but the light comes on every time I drive. What gives?
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My 2015 f350 6.2 truck started making this whine noise..... Sounds like a bearing..... Stops at 40 seconds.. [URL] .....
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i have a f350 superduty with a 7.3 turbo diesel and I pretty much hafta keep it plugged in to get it to start, i have installed all new glow plugs and both relays have been changed and the problem is still there, only other option i have not tried yet was changing the pcm controller but unsure if that is the problem ..
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I picked up my 05 F350 dually 5 speed w/ the 6.0 powerstroke motor in august... It only had 38k on it when I bought it... its got 43K miles on it now...
Ran great in the warm weather but ever since it got cold out its been a struggle. It was running rough on the way home and kept stalling while i was driving it.. (acting like it was starving for fuel).
I went and replaced both fuel filters and started the truck... let it warm up and it stalled while sitting in my drive way and haven't been able to start it since...
I have fuel additive in it but since I don't drive it all the time (maybe 3 times a week for 30 miles) could it be possible that the fuel is gelling?
I was going to check the EGR valve tonight...
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OK, I have a 2002 F350 with 160k miles that cranks fine, but has a hard time starting when it is cold. By cold I mean that it is not hot from being driven in the last 5 hrs or so. No problem starting after being at rifle practice for 3 hrs or after a trip to the store. Always have trouble starting in the morning, like this morning when the temperature outside was 49 deg. I have to crank for quite a while to get it to turn over, but once it catches, it runs like a champ. Afraid I'm going to wear my starter or batteries out because It seems like I have to crank for about 2 minutes.
I have a fairly new CPS replaced less than 15k miles ago, new glow plugs, and recently replaced the leaky bleeder valve on the bowl. This difficult starting condition came about some time before the bleeder valve seal repair, and is still doing it after the repair. This problem seems to have cropped up on it's own unrelated to any work I have done. I am using Mobile 1 5W-40 diesel oil. When the no start occurs, there is no smoke present out of the tail pipe like what you would get if you had bad glow plugs. There is just no fuel getting into the injectors.
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So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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2 nights ago changed the fuel filters for the 3rd time on truck since bought it a year ago. It has 67,000 miles. F350 6.4 L 2008. The truck ran for about 2 minutes and then wouldn't start. For the last two nights have done everything including cycling the key over and over to purge air, replacing the fuel filters thinking the first ones may have been defective, pumped the gas pedal while trying to start it, tried to start it with fuel cut off switch held in, changed o rings etc. The first night I didn't get fuel at the head but after changing the filters a second time, I now have fuel at the head. That is the only progress I have made. The truck has gas and it is fine as we are using it in other trucks. The battery has never been allowed to totally deplete.
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I bought my 2005 F-350 Diesel 6.0 Brand New. Whenever my low fuel light comes on, I only have a few miles to go before I run out of diesel. Is there a way to adjust this light so it will come on with maybe 20-30 miles to go before running out? Its seems to only have maybe a gallon in the tank when this light comes on...
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My 2000 ford f350 will start and then dies on me when i try to put in gear. I changed air n fuel filter. Adding oil i noticed the stick was still reading dry. Noticed a big oil spot under the hood. What should i try to do? Do not want to put in shop cause every time she goes in I come out broke.
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We just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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2006 f350 DRW King Ranch diesel with 94,000 miles on it. When I shift in to 4x4 the AC switches to defrost and then takes 2 min to return to the vents. I imagine this is a vacuum leak issue. Where to start hunting? I pulled the dash for another install and all lines were connected. I will say the vacuum pump stays on longer than normal when the ignition is first activated.
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I have a 2000 F-350 Dually. One of the rear fender lights is not working. Is there a way to check the bulb without pulling the inner liner to access it?
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2000 f350 interior buzzing noise opened the door went away, shut the door after a little while came back. Then notice the dome light flickering, took the dome light bulb out it completely stopped?
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