2000 f350 interior buzzing noise opened the door went away, shut the door after a little while came back. Then notice the dome light flickering, took the dome light bulb out it completely stopped?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0L Crew Cab 4x4 that started acting up. It started two days ago when I noticed my windshield wipers were only working at one speed. Then today my wife took the truck to work and she said the radio stopped working on her way to work. Then she gets in this afternoon and the ABS light is on, the A/C isn't working, the windows are super slow and the interior lights are flickering. She isn't home yet so I haven't checked the fuse block. Where would you start looking?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
My prob started with key in ignition warning alarm working with no key, then radio on off at will and interior light not working or delay not turning them off when door closed. Now all gauges and warning lights/alarms go out also. If I open door and key alarm is on all systems work at that moment and without touching truck alarm can stop at will, at that point ignition alarm, interior light, radio and gauges do not work. When I giggle key with truck running the door ajar alarm activates when system working!
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2011 F-350, when i'm on the driving over 60 mph i hear this humming or buzzing noise coming from around the dash. It kind of comes and goes depending on the wind direction or if I'm passing a semi. Thinking it may be coming from around the windshield seal.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 F-350 Dually. One of the rear fender lights is not working. Is there a way to check the bulb without pulling the inner liner to access it?
View 5 RepliesI have a 'new to me' 2007 F-350SD super cab and need to run some wiring inside. What I don't know is how the heck the trim pieces are attached and how to remove them without breaking them! If it ain't held on with screws, nuts, bolts...
View 2 RepliesMy batteries drained twice and now I prob. need new ones but with the key off I can turn the blower on any speed and the passenger airbag light blinks. I hear the clicking from a relay under the dash when I do this. I have checked for leaks in the windshield and found none . The fuse box and the GEM are completely dry. My ignition switch will pull out with the key in it . I noticed this just the past few weeks . Now yesterday my odometer speedometer quit. It did pull a code for this. Maybe it is connected maybe not . My odl light is flashing but still works. My cruise doesn't but I realize it is connected to speedometer.
2000 F350 supercab diesel....
I have a 2012 F350 and the interior lights and cargo light do not turn on when I open my doors. The maps lights work if I manually turn them on. Why this happens and how to correct this issue?
View 2 Replies1999 F-250 7.3 Ext Cab 4X4... I just got this truck and it started having the 4x4 light flashing or flickering while driving and sitting?
View 3 RepliesSo the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
So my truck drove great to ocean city MD this weekend. Power is perfect again, feels really tight. But now I have having to additional problems.
1) My alt light had been flickering a couples times a month. Last night it came on and stayed on. Lots of threads about this I Know!
I am hoping that cleaning and tightening the connections will do the trick since the alt is a Bosch with only 25k miles or so. But I want to order a rebuild kit:
is my alt a 3G or a 3G8429?
F SERIES | Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits
2) I started to have a ticking at idle. Its very regular and sounds like its coming from the passenger side valve cover. In random threads I have read about timing chain guides breaking and loose rocker arms.
Most of the time its 3 ticks in a row and then a pause. Should I be pulling the valve cover? Think I need to R&R the timing chain? I will post a video later!
What this clunk could be?? in my truck in signature, 2003 F350 CCLB 4x4, 4" lift. its only low speed, on very light bumps. really does it when the truck flexes, like turning into an elevated driveway or something. driving me absolutely insane the last few months. it sounds like its coming from right under my feet
-removed front shocks and drove
-removed front sway bar and drove
-front wheel bearings are new and tight
-front leaf spring, rear upper shackle bushings are new (thought that was problem..no)
-front leaf springs and bushings are new, although i suppose its possible to have a bad bushing already
-removed traction bars and drove
-removed front track bar and drove, but going to try this again.
-all cab mounts look ok
-took out cab mount under drivers foot, and cut down the metal piece a little...read about it on another thread on here. no change
-made sure my gooseneck ball couldn't rattle
-steering box is new...thought that was it
-steering shaft is solid
-transmission mount bushing and crossmember feel tight
-lubed front driveshaft slip joint and it doesn't have any u joint play
-rear shocks seem ok but haven't removed them yet
-fuel tank is solid
-rear driveshaft has new carrier bearing and u joints, all is tight
-exhaust is not hitting anything
-u bolts all tight, spring bolts are tight
As you can see, I've been through damn near everything. my only thoughts right now is a possible bad cab bushing, or bad leaf spring bushing...as it sounds like its right under my feet. and when you flex the truck, it makes all sort of popping and clunking noises. i had the truck on my buddies lift and we went under it for an hour yesterday looking around with no luck. only thing i found was a bad traction bar bushing but we removed them and it still does it..
Most noticeable at the end of the video...it sounds exactly like a bad sway bar bushing but that's not it...
Front end clunk - YouTube ....
Having a problem with my truck and I'm stuck. About 9 months ago my 4wd stopped working. Turn the switch and no light or noise. I took a look at fuses and everything was good there. I let it go but now I need 4wd. Today I checked every fuse and all of them were good. I moved to the relays checked them and they were good but for the heck of it replaced them. Checked for power at the pins. The one that needed power had power. Next I went to the switch had 12 volts there. Pulled switch and test with a multimeter and ohms were good. Went. Down to the motor and tested for power there not power to the motor. Is there anything else I'm missing Esof not working. 2002 f350 7.3 auto....
View 2 RepliesI own a 2003 f250 superduty v8 gas. I have a buzzing noise that comes and goes. It comes from the dashboard area around the steering column. However it goes away when either I press on the brakes, hit the signal or press my tow brake control.. And I could go days and not here it then it will be there for a few days and then it goes away again...
View 7 RepliesI had a buzzing noise on acceleration so today I cut all the heat shields off the exhaust system and also bent the bottom of the transmission inspection plate toward the front of the motor. It cured the buzzing noise but when I started the truck up there was a new rattle kind of sound, so I looked and found my y pipe is cracked where the passenger side pipe comes down off the manifold and connects to the pipe that goes to the cat converter.
I don't want to get a whole new y pipe could I order the spd Y pipe and that should work out right? it should be cheaper than a whole new y pipe aswell. I filled up the crack (it cracked 360) with weld but it was tissue paper so I would like to fix it before winter. I also still need to do my passenger side manifold studs and weld a new muffler because I found the rear half of mine is rotted off lol so I will probably do this all at one time.
I'm probably just going to pull everything manifolds and back off the truck, I have a feeling theres a bunch of rust sitting in front of the cat or muffler making the new rattling noise. Also in all my years of wrenching I have never figured out an easy way to get the exhaust off those rubber hangers, I always try to spray wd40 in there to get them to slide easy but always end up tearing them while trying to get them off.
2 weeks ago, I purchased a 2015 F250 6.2 with 16K miles. Upon bringing her home, I noticed that there is a buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment after I shut down the motor which lasts approximately one minute (give or take). Since the truck is still under factory warranty, I figure I'll take it to the local dealership, but I'm wondering with the 6.2 has had the same issue and what the issue could possibly be.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
View 12 RepliesI've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?