Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 - Gas At High Altitude
Nov 25, 2014
I've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
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1999 F350 Crewcab 4x4 dually V10. Fan switch only works on High. All fuses and relays look Good. Is it a bad speed control switch? What can it be?
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I have a miss at high rpms.. I pulled this engine, manual trans, and 4x4 axle and put them in my F350 Majestic motorhome. 156,000 miles on the engine. Slightly dusted engine with good compression 375-400 (cranking and corrected for altitude). Has a little bit of a long start.
No smoke on start up unless 10 degrees or colder
No smoke when pulling either.
Glowplugs ...Good
GPR... Good
Checked resistance from IDM to injectors ...Good
History of some ether for starting before I got my hands on it. I have AE with the ford enhancement. But I am new to working on a powerstroke and new to AE.
ICP ...new
CPS...new
Oil ....new
EBP...new
Installed a pressure gauge to the drivers side upper port on my fuel bowl:
60 psi at idle
55 psi at WOT 2500-3000 rpms under a load
HPOP stabilized pressure is 2750 @ 40% duty cycle
Truck still misses (semi-intermittently) at higher rpm with a load.
Rechecked codes KOEO: None present
I visually inspected valve movement while running (idle). Did the buzz test when cold.... All injectors sounded the same when tested individually.
Did a cct when not completely warm:
P0266
p0272
Repeated the test at normal operating temperature:
P0266
Torque values on rocker arms bolts and injector holds are good. Fuel quality isn't an issue since this problem has remained for 5 tanks of fuel. What I should do next?
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New too my Ford, but anyway it's -10 Celsius. My trucks been idling for a few hours and probably will all day because of my job. Usually idles about 600rpm normally. So today the oil temp was about 80degrees Celsius. Then the truck idled up too about 1000rpm for a while. If I touch the gas it goes back to normal idle speed but then starts idling up again after 30 sec. What temp does the truck want too keep it at?
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2013 F350 passenger headlight bulb keeps blowing both high and low? Replaced 2 times now?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 has 585000. Installed new hpop and lpop and new ipr .pressured oil system with air don't hear any leaks. After truck done started then put truck together no start same problem as before. No oil pressure on dash. All checks goqd except not enough high pressure.
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Very strange things happening with 2009 F350 Gas, first the heater blower only is now working on high, progressively has gotten worse, low settings started not working a while ago, now only high works. Just recently the strangest thing, start the truck OK, turn on radio OK, turn lights on then the radio goes off. Will bring it to dealer in a day or two if I can't figure this one out.
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2005 F350 Lariat ..... I cant get my AC to work in my truck.
AC will not cycle on, Originally thought the system was low because I jumped the pressure switch and it cycled fine (But did not cool inside the vehicle). Checked the pressure and it was in the 40lb range on the low side. My blower will only blow on high but I assumed it was a defective fan speed control.. Possibly an issue with the climate control?
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I'm having an issue with my 2001 F350 V10. A seriously annoying high pitched whining noise appeared a while ago, then disappeared, and has now come back.
It happens as soon as I start my truck, whether it's cold or warmed up already. it increases in pitch and loudness as I increase RPM, it also does exactly the same in neutral. As soon as I put it in gear (R, D, 2, 1) it completely disappears and will come back as soon as I shift back to P or N. Strangely, if I drive around town for a few minutes, when I get back home and shift to park the sound doesn't really come back, sometimes it will be faint but usually it's totally gone. But if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on again then it's there again.
It's coming from somewhere in the engine compartment or close but due to the nature of the sound it's very difficult to locate. I got underneath using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and listened to the transmission, transfer case, starter, oil pan and even the gastank and it doesn't sound like it's coming directly from any of them. While underneath I noticed power steering fluid leaking from the pump behind the pulley and dripping off the hose. Somehow though I don't think it's related as the sound disappears in gear and doesn't change at all when turning the wheels. I cleaned the fluid off and drove around a bit and it doesn't seem to be leaking too badly and my reservoir is totally full.
The truck otherwise is driving as good as it always has and whatever this sound is doesn't seem to be having any effect on performance (yet...) ...
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Bought a 08 F350 with the 6.4 Liter, with 80k mikes on it. Was traveling up an incline. Both Turbo's were engaged, when suddenly I lost boost, and PSI dropped all the way down. They barely create any pressure now. Checked intake, also checked boots too inter cooler. All seem fine. After driving it for about five minutes at low PSI, a check engine light came on. It was a sudden loss of power.
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I recently came a cross a no start issue with my truck. It is 2005 ford f350 6.0 ... Found out I have a leak in the high pressure system. When I was taking out the bolts out from the manifold I stripped out two bolts. I know ford part # w301383 is the ford bolt. But I was thinking why use that same bolt and had have that issue again later.
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Alright, so here's what I've got: 2002 Ford F-350 7.3L - Unmodified, Stock, no chip, no tuner, 130K miles, been run with off-road diesel most of its life as a farm truck.
Here's what it's doing: Serious misfire in cylinders 4 and 6. At idle, mild miss. Throttle from 0 to 50 percent, runs well. Throttle from 50 percent to 100 percent, heavy miss, chugging, white smoke out the exhaust.
Here's what we've done so far:
New UVC Harnesses with updated pigtails.
Cleaned Fuel Filter Mixing screens.
Cleaned out fuel tank.
Cleaned bowl.
Changed Fuel Filter.
Changed IDMs
Changed Crank Sensor.
Inspected injectors while running to see if oil is pumping (it is).
No improvement. Where to go from here. Pulled codes, and it says Cylinder #4 and #6 High to Low Side open. We don't know what to do at this point.
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I would like to do the high idle mod with my 2006 F-350 using the upfitter switches. I've seen a couple of threads about this but they are not real clear to me and don't mention the 2006.
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I recently bought a 2003 F350 super duty dually automatic transmission 6.0 deisel 4x4. The 4x4 is not working. with the hubs in auto when i flip the switch to 4x4 high nothing happens.The same with 4x4 low putting the truck in neutral. I can only find 2 fuses using the owners manual that says anything about 4x4 and both of them check out good. Also the owners manual says when i turn on the key I should see a 4x4 light and a low range light momentarily. Neither of these lights are showing up. I don't hear any clicking or any noise of any kind when trying the 4x4.It acts like an electrical issue but not sure where to start.
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I have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
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I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
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I recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
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I'm getting a really choppy low RPM drive. If I'm above 2-2.5k rpm it runs okay but as soon as it drops under 2.5k it starts to run very choppy and loses power and Boggs in and out of power regardless of how much throttle input I give it. I had a tune up done last year and a recent oil change...
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Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
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