My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
View 1 RepliesConversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
I just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
View 6 RepliesWhat is the width between the spring perches on leaf sprung 99-04 front axle. I searched and cant seem to find a dimension listed anywhere. i tried the dana60 bible on the pirate site as well, but it doesn't list the spring perch dimensions, only for the pre 99 styles
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 that was once a work horse. Its now just my daily. The leaf springs in the rear have 2 broken on each on and the front need to be replaced due to 344K miles on them too. My question is how do I soften up my ride on leaf springs though? Theres a local shop that will do the work, but my rears have 7 leafs / front 2. It used to tow daily but I dont tow anything with it. could I go to 5 in the rear to soften it?
View 14 RepliesWhere I can get or have a speed nut for the front eye bolt of the right rear leaf spring? If you do I'll gladly send you some cash for it and to cover shipping it. It's supposed to rain pretty much all week here and I really don't want to go to a junkyard. I have checked ford parts and nothing there you can get the hanger that attaches to the frame that the spring bolts to but not the speed nut or bolt only need the speed nut though. Truck is an 2004 f-250 so 1999-04 will work and 05 to 07 is setup the same in the rear but I don't know if they are the same size bolt since they made the frame heavier. I have no idea after 07 when they made the springs longer.
View 1 RepliesAs the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
Tonight I went to check the air in the tires on my 2001 F350 Dually and saw that the front right rim is broken. Two of the five spokes are completely broken all the way through. So this means I am looking to buy at least one good stock rim for the front. Might buy two if the price is right. Didn't want to spend the money for 4 custom rims right now unless it is really a super deal. If you have some sitting there in your way send me a message. My Zip is 46347.
View 4 Replies2003 F250 7.3... I noticed a water leak dripping down onto passenger side front leaf spring. I saw this before but attributed it to the AC (which kicks butt) but haven't used the AC. No scent to the clear fluid, temps all look good. Running fine. Where does the AC discharge go? Could AC be on (not on AC but set in blue zone on dial)? Reservoir looks ok but could e small volume of drips.
View 12 RepliesAny success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
View 8 RepliesI have a '99 F350 4 door. After a good rain (I live in the Pacific NW), my front, passenger floorboard/carpet is very wet. The interesting thing is, before the latest rain, I pulled up the carpet and put a towel on the slant between the dashboard and foot area. I expected the leak to be behind the dashboard, then run down to the flat footwell. Surprisingly, the towel was not wet; however, the flat foot area was. Especially closest to the seat. The slanting part of the carpet and towel were not wet. If the leak is not coming from the windshield/firewall/behind the dashboard, where else could it be? Also, the truck was parked during the entire time.
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 RepliesMy batteries drained twice and now I prob. need new ones but with the key off I can turn the blower on any speed and the passenger airbag light blinks. I hear the clicking from a relay under the dash when I do this. I have checked for leaks in the windshield and found none . The fuse box and the GEM are completely dry. My ignition switch will pull out with the key in it . I noticed this just the past few weeks . Now yesterday my odometer speedometer quit. It did pull a code for this. Maybe it is connected maybe not . My odl light is flashing but still works. My cruise doesn't but I realize it is connected to speedometer.
2000 F350 supercab diesel....
I have a 1999 F350 and the passenger side front door suddenly will not open with the inner handle but it will open if I roll down the window and open it from the outside. The inside seems like it is locked but the locks are all working fine and all the other doors are working just fine .....
View 2 RepliesI just put some toyo at2 295.75.16. On my 04 250. And I've got some rubbing on the plastic and front leaf springs. If a 2.5 " spring left will take care of the rubbing or will I need wheel spacers.
View 3 Replies2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
View 8 RepliesI want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
View 3 RepliesThe issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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