Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 - Front End Rattle?
Jul 11, 2016
I recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
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2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
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I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
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The issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
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My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
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So loving my new to me truck. Only has 140K on it. But one thing that bugs me is that with the doors closed tight, when I drive over bumps, they sound like they are not closed. Makes you feel like they will fly open. But when checked they are closed all the way. Is there an adjustment or something that can correct this?
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2000 super duty v10 with 92,000 miles. Getting that common rattle around 2k rpm range that goes away if I give it gas or let off. I originally thought it was the inspection plate on the transmission so I removed it and went for a drive to verify. The sound is still present so the only thing I can think of is the catalytic converter is worn out??
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I was going to put new ball joints in but wimped out and had my mechanic do them. I'm too old to be doing that kind of crap. I just replaced the fuel pump with the correct one. That's enough under truck time for a while. 91,000 miles on the originals, stopped the rumble / rattle when I hit bumps in the front end. Getting the alignment Tuesday. Guess I got my money's worth out of them. Still has original brake pads too. Thinking of doing an upgrade to the brakes, drilled and slotted, I tow an RV and need it to protect the idiots that pull out in front of me. 2001, V10, CC ......
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I have a "rattle/knock" that I think is coming from the doors on my 2000 F250 SD extended cab. The rattle is only there when the truck is going over bumps....especially closly spaced bumps. My buddy has the exact truck and it does not rattle.
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I have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
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I've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
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I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
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I'm getting a really choppy low RPM drive. If I'm above 2-2.5k rpm it runs okay but as soon as it drops under 2.5k it starts to run very choppy and loses power and Boggs in and out of power regardless of how much throttle input I give it. I had a tune up done last year and a recent oil change...
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Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
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The 4wd on my 2000 f350 has just stopped working? I have used it a few times since getting it a few months ago and then last night I was going to play paintball in the woods and the 4wd would not engage? when i put it in 4wd it would act like the truck is in neutral and then it lurched forward? The front hubs have the option on them to turn, but I never had to turn them before and they do not move when I tried to? What could be causing the 4wd not to function?
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So I've got a 2000 F350 7.3. Just replaced all the ball joints, sway bar end links, carrier bearing, balanced the tires... a bunch of stuff to try and eradicate this weird wobble I have and I just can't seem to figure out what it is.
The wobble happens at and around 35mph, and then once I break 70mpis on the speedo (I have a 4" lift and am running 35's so it's not actually 70). I've experienced death wobble before in a jeep I had, and it is nothing like that, and I can't see it being driveline related but I could be wrong.
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Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
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I have a 2000 7.3L PSD and the light switch pulls out like the newer Fords do to activate their fog lights, I am just trying to find out if who has hooked up fog lights to this switch on a 2000? If so, how?
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I noticed an oil leak out of the front housing of my 2016 350. I have 3 Ford dealers nearby and all 3 can't get me in until 8 August. It looks to be just a few drops daily. Is it safe to drive pulling a 5th wheel until they get me in? The leak is at the bottom of the housing.
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