Ok, it's cold out... is there a way that I can use my factory key fob to lock and unlock the doors with the truck running? 2000 F350.
View 10 Replies2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 Lariat diesel crew cab. All of a sudden my remote start will not work, sometimes i can do it 5 times and it will finally but most of the time I just hear a lot of clicking noises in the engine like relays or something. Also when I exit my vehicle, if I use either the key fob or the outside keypad on the door to lock the vehicle, the stereo system turns on and stays on. When I open the door it shuts off. The only other thing that might be related is the other day when I put my windshield wipers on, the worked in super super slow-motion, stopped and then started again but at like 1/4 of the normal speed.
View 2 Replies2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
View 8 Replies2000 f350 7.3 .. I'm having a horrible time trying to figure out why my truck is draining down the batteries. I can charge my batteries over night and put hem in and the truck will run for a few hours but then it dies completely. The alternator seems to be running really hot afterward like it is being over worked. I put in 2 different alternators and 2 new batteries and it didn't fix the issue.
I then put in a new starter relay. Still having the same issue. I believe I have a short because I tested for it but am unable to locate the short. I heard if you over work the bushings in the starter they can ground out on the casing which will cause something similar to this to happen. I work in ND and had to cold start it in - temperatures the morning this all began. I purchased a new starter but don't want to put it in if that is not the issue.
I have a 2000 F-350 diesel and the electric vacuum pump went out. I bought a new one from napa and it would not stop pumping. Checked for leaks and found none. If I unplug the hose from the vacuum can the next day, you can hear it suck air so it seems I am holding vacuum. Problem is I burnt out the new pump in two weeks from running all the time. Bought another one and same problem.
So now I plug the electrical in and let it build up vacuum for a couple of minutes and then disconnect it so it won't burn out and I am good for days on vent controls and 4x4. If there has been a bad batch of pumps out there? I also unplugged the hose from the pump to the holding tank and put my finger over where the pump sucks and it still did not shut off.
I have a F350 2000 crew cab srw with 7.3 diesel. I removed the HID that was installed by previous owner. The factory wiring harness was still intact but now I don't have running lights or dash lights. I still have head lights, brake lights and blinkers... I replaced the head light units with factory replacements......
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 2000 Super Duty last week When I looked at it and test drove it, the doors unlocked with the fob. Then I bought it and the doors would not unlock with the fob. A day later, they would not unlock with the door controller. I can hear them clicking and see them move slightly. Where to start checking?
View 6 RepliesWhen I put the truck in to park, the doors do not unlock. They work fine with the button or the key fob. What do I need to do to fix this issue. Its quite annoying considering I have passengers with frequently that need to open the door a lot.
View 7 Replies I have a E99 f250XLT 4X4 Crew Cab PSD.
I have been on this site for the better part of 2 hours searching for my switch problem to no end. Most everything I am pulling up has to do with the lock actuators. I have a switch on the drivers side that will not lock any of my doors. The passenger side switch will work just fine as well as the key fob. All of my actuators work for all 4 doors. No issues with the dome light or door ajar light staying on.
Here is what I have done so far:
I have taken the passenger door switch off and put it on the drivers side and it will not lock the doors.
I have bought a re-manufactured driver side door lock switch and installed it and it did not lock the doors.
I have taken a jumper wire and grounding a pin on the drivers side switch harness and can get the doors to unlock but i can't get it to lock.
Where and what color wires to look for in a harness at the door kick panel or anywhere I might look for a broken wire? It is really frustrating that I can not lock my doors without using my remote.
I've been researching a problem with my power door lock. On my 2002 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab PSD (not the 76' SuperCab)] since Saturday when they began demonstrating the following symptoms:
1) No response to key fob (either lock or unlock)
2) No response to door switches (initially responded to unlock command only)
3) Whenever the key fob or door switch is pushed, a clicking noise from behind the dash occurs for about 15-20 seconds
4) When the key is in the ignition, the clicking from behind the dash is constant
5) Intermitantly, the actuators attempt to lock the doors when I close the door
6) Intermitantly, the locks will respond to some comands
7) Auto down feature on the driver's door window stopped working.
I found the clicking was coming from a unit behind the radio and just above the transmission hump on the firewall.
There are several threads on power door locks and I thought it might work others to have short summary and some links in one post as I just spent the last two days finding and reading these.
The most popular fix involves pulling the actuators apart to remove a thermistor from the motor that is prone to failure. This apparently rejuvinates the actuator motors and the directions for completing this are listed here Power Door Locks FIXED It's a long thread, but there are lots of step-by-step directions including pictures etc.
I tried this on mine, but it didn't work. The clicking from behind the dash is a different problem. At least when I get this fixed I'll have good actuator motors.
The next most popular fix simply involves spraying WD-40 into the door latches (not the hinges, but the latches). This seems to work for many people who have problems with the dome light staying on and other door switch related problems. Check out Door Open Light On Dash What Up? for more info on that.
I tried this too, but, unfortunately, the clicking is more than can be solved with a little WD-40. The Door Open Light On thread had some references to the Vehicle Security Module.
I found a number of threads on clicking from behind the dash and these threads all seem to point to a problem with the General Electrical Module (GEM) or the Vehicle Security Module (VSM). From what I could find, the VSM may have been a new part introduced in 2002 that replaced the GEM (but I'm not sure about this). Here are a couple of the more useful threads I found:
VSM Theory
Dash Open Light On Dash What Up?
Just started a job with a company that has F250 super duty service vehicles and I am puzzled. All the answers I find don't seem to apply to this vehicle. With a full front seat and the big center console it kinda sucks to have to reach over or walk around to manual lock passenger door 10 times a day. I do NOT have power door lock buttons, number pad on handle, or any type of keyless remote. It seems I only have the safety feature lock/unlock at start up and cutoff. So is there anyway to make it not unlock passenger door when I turn ignition off? I even tried pulling fuse 17 that is marked as lock motors thinking that was related with no success. The dash display doesn't have the option to disable as listed in the manual as one of the 4 ways to turn it off. And for reference it does not behave the way the manual says about autolocking at 12mph. Its instant lock on key turn on and instant unlock both doors on key off.
View 9 RepliesI just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2012 F350 and the interior lights and cargo light do not turn on when I open my doors. The maps lights work if I manually turn them on. Why this happens and how to correct this issue?
View 2 RepliesInstalling a Pop N Lock on a 2016? What were the wire colors you tapped into?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 F350, with a 4 inch Rancho Suspension lift. Ever since the lift kit was installed, more commonly when turning to the left than right, the anti lock brakes come on and the traction control light comes on/flashes. without even stepping on brake pedal.
It seems to happen when the wheel is at about 80% of max turning, about 15mph. Both wheel hubs and sensors have been replaced. road tested with Ford tech , he watched the speed sensor input while hooked to the computer and all sensor are reading correctly.
Today I went in a constant circle and can make it do it non stop, and when you try to press the brake pedal while the anti-lock (grinding/chattering) noise is happening, it only gets louder.
I have a 2007 f-350 with the 5.4. The fuel pump is not running, have voltage at the inertia switch but none at the pump. Where the pump driver module is located at?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F350 5.4L 4x4. I had a check engine code on my truck a couple of months ago. The truck was running fine then. The light went away and I forgot about the issue. In the last week the truck began to run like crap; hesitation during hwy speeds. The truck is running with hesitation in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. In low gears the truck seems to run just fine. I have changed the EGR valve as well as the fuel filter. Check engine light is not on but the problem has not gotten any better.
View 3 RepliesWhat are the normal running temps for the tranny of a 2012 f350 6.7?
View 3 Replies1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
View 2 Replies