Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 - Electric Vacuum Motor Stays Running
Jul 9, 2011
I have a 2000 F-350 diesel and the electric vacuum pump went out. I bought a new one from napa and it would not stop pumping. Checked for leaks and found none. If I unplug the hose from the vacuum can the next day, you can hear it suck air so it seems I am holding vacuum. Problem is I burnt out the new pump in two weeks from running all the time. Bought another one and same problem.
So now I plug the electrical in and let it build up vacuum for a couple of minutes and then disconnect it so it won't burn out and I am good for days on vent controls and 4x4. If there has been a bad batch of pumps out there? I also unplugged the hose from the pump to the holding tank and put my finger over where the pump sucks and it still did not shut off.
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I have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
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I have a 2008 F350 FX4 with the 6.4l diesel, a couple weeks ago I was reprogramming the ecm and noticed the vacuum pump was running and wouldn't stop, so after a bunch of reading and testing i changed the solenoid vacuum valve. I tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks.
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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On a 2000 F-350 with 5.4 engine, where does the vacuum line enter the cab? I got a truck in with no vacuum signal to the heat controls, and it has a slight miss at idle. Both of these are signs of a vacuum leak, but i can not find the line going into the cab.
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2000 f350 7.3 .. I'm having a horrible time trying to figure out why my truck is draining down the batteries. I can charge my batteries over night and put hem in and the truck will run for a few hours but then it dies completely. The alternator seems to be running really hot afterward like it is being over worked. I put in 2 different alternators and 2 new batteries and it didn't fix the issue.
I then put in a new starter relay. Still having the same issue. I believe I have a short because I tested for it but am unable to locate the short. I heard if you over work the bushings in the starter they can ground out on the casing which will cause something similar to this to happen. I work in ND and had to cold start it in - temperatures the morning this all began. I purchased a new starter but don't want to put it in if that is not the issue.
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Ok, it's cold out... is there a way that I can use my factory key fob to lock and unlock the doors with the truck running? 2000 F350.
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I have a F350 2000 crew cab srw with 7.3 diesel. I removed the HID that was installed by previous owner. The factory wiring harness was still intact but now I don't have running lights or dash lights. I still have head lights, brake lights and blinkers... I replaced the head light units with factory replacements......
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my blower keeps blowing even when i turn off the system, it does stop when the motor is off but comes back on once i start the truck...relay is fine.
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When I put my 06 f350 in 4x4 my ac defaults to defrost. I assume this means a vacuum leak. My question is, is the white tube supposed to be open for air intake or plugged off with something?
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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I have a 2005 f350 with the power stroke I went through the hole vacuum system all new hubs, seals, vacuum actuator and fixed it all now I'm having the reverse problems everyone has my hubs are locked all the time as soon as I plug in the vacuum actuator the transfer case is still in 2wd and will switch 4x4 and work and disengage but the hubs are always in unless I unplug the actuator ...
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Why there is an electric cord running to my rear view mirror?
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I have an 06 350 that at one time the dash went out and I lost pw,radio, all gauges.I replaced the dash and all works, but now the radio stays on after I pull the key and lock the doors. It does not have key fob plus the dome light wont come on when door is opened. Radio stays on for about 20 min if I don't turn it off .
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So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
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I have a 2005 F250 , 4.2 tdi diesel. I just bought the truck recently and still getting to know it.
I noticed recently that when I turn on the key, the vacuum pump starts running and does not go off. It seems to run continuously and will only shut off if I block the white outlet pipe with my finger. Is this normal or is the pump stuffed.
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All you need to do is pull out the head lite switch find the solid brown wire that is the running lights wire now find the yellow wire this is fog lights wire (these wires are on the gray plug ) you need a 3" piece of wire and 2 blue wire connectors it slips over the wires no cutting any wires then slide wire in the other end of the blue connector after you jump them your fog lights will come on with running lights and will not go off with high beams...
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Like the title says; I have a 2001 F350 with No blower Motor and Just Defrost, it is actually a friends, he is building a fence, and I am looking into the truck problem. The just defrost is probably a vacuum issue, but I do not have any book for this truck, so I have no vacuum or wiring diagrams. As far as the blower motor, I am thinking switch or motor, fuse has been checked? Is there any other "control" box involved with this year/model? Also any dash tear-out instructions, to make the access easier?
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I have a 2002 F350 Triton V10, Automatic 4x4 Lariat. I have a tapping noise in my motor, and I've had people tell me it could be the timing chain slapping around, a rod or lifter. The tapping noise gets quieter after the motor has warmed up, but gets louder when given gas. I've been told to try thicker oil, pure gasoline (no ethanol), The truck runs fine for the most part except for a vacuum leak on the top part of the motor underneath the throttle body. I have someone that says they can work on the motor and so on. But I don't know where to look to buy the parts for the motor, and what I should have replaced, while he's got the motor out and apart, so far he said he'd change the lifters, timing chain, the vacuum leak.
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I have a 03 f 350 6.0. My 4x4 wont engage. I checked my fuses all are good except 31 no power. Is this the culprit?. I get power at the 6pin pig tail on shift motor, but the 2pin pig tail doesn't get any power at all. I pulled shift motor off manually put power on it and it works. I also replaced both 30amp relays under hood...
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2001 f350 blower motor for (A/C - Heater) works sometimes and sometimes does not.
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