Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 5.4L Misfire Occasionally?
Apr 21, 2015
I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
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I've got a 2005 f350 with a 6.0 starts when it wants. I have checked the ficm and 48 volts when key is on and cranking! How do I know if my icp is bad? Some days it will start no problem but most days it will just crank over. When it does start i run it for a while shut it off and try to restart it and it wont!
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My dad gave his 2005 Ford F-350 truck with the gas 5.4L (?) I drove it home. If i floor it it misfires badly, or if the RPM's get over 3000 it misfires then about 3800 it stops and keeps going. but i can't give it to much gas....
The spark plugs where replaced 2 years ago along with the cat converters. I can hear some very fait manifold gasket leak ...
A few days ago it was raining and it had a bad misfire with blinking CEL. but it never threw a solid CLE. can i still put the codes on it to see what cylinder it is? Are these issue related? Where should i start?
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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I had a 05 f350 5.4 3v come into my shop with a CEL. Did the usual it had a p0307. So I did the usual again changed plug and coil plug cam out no prob they were done 15k ago. Test drove a few times and it was fine. Few days later customer brought back with same code p0307. thought maybe I got a bad plug or coil so I moved them to #6, misfire stays on #7. When I drive it local its fine when I go to pull on to highway and really put my foot in it CEL flashes (misfire) and it pings like crazy and loses all power. Scan it back at shop and still only p0307!!
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Best truck I ever had but around 200k would occasionally blow a bunch of smoke when pulling a heavy load.
My 2000 f 350 xlt triton v8 has done the same thing a couple times (about 200k miles).
The (cough) "truck expert" at my local dealer has never seen that before but its happened in 2 different trucks for me. It never caused a problem other than scaring me.
I sold the 02 last year when i got a 2011 f 250--it was 12 years and 300k miles old and never was hospitalized except for a fuel pump due to my negligence of filter.
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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My V10 was knocking when accelerating under 2000 rpm; rain and moisture made the problem worse. I discovered that the 2-part wiper cowl under the windshield allowed water to leak into the engine compartment and onto the throttle body, which then dripped onto the left side of the engine. This caused the spark plugs to rust and the 3 back ignition coils (coil on plug) on the driver's side to crack and fail. This caused a horrible misfire/knock that was worst under 2000 rpm especially in high gear and when the environment was wet. I fixed the misfire and cowling leak. Has not returned. I caulked the cowl and changed all my spark plugs and ignition coils.
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I have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
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I've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
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I recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
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I'm getting a really choppy low RPM drive. If I'm above 2-2.5k rpm it runs okay but as soon as it drops under 2.5k it starts to run very choppy and loses power and Boggs in and out of power regardless of how much throttle input I give it. I had a tune up done last year and a recent oil change...
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Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
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The 4wd on my 2000 f350 has just stopped working? I have used it a few times since getting it a few months ago and then last night I was going to play paintball in the woods and the 4wd would not engage? when i put it in 4wd it would act like the truck is in neutral and then it lurched forward? The front hubs have the option on them to turn, but I never had to turn them before and they do not move when I tried to? What could be causing the 4wd not to function?
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So I've got a 2000 F350 7.3. Just replaced all the ball joints, sway bar end links, carrier bearing, balanced the tires... a bunch of stuff to try and eradicate this weird wobble I have and I just can't seem to figure out what it is.
The wobble happens at and around 35mph, and then once I break 70mpis on the speedo (I have a 4" lift and am running 35's so it's not actually 70). I've experienced death wobble before in a jeep I had, and it is nothing like that, and I can't see it being driveline related but I could be wrong.
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Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
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I have a 2000 7.3L PSD and the light switch pulls out like the newer Fords do to activate their fog lights, I am just trying to find out if who has hooked up fog lights to this switch on a 2000? If so, how?
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My 2000 ford f350 will start and then dies on me when i try to put in gear. I changed air n fuel filter. Adding oil i noticed the stick was still reading dry. Noticed a big oil spot under the hood. What should i try to do? Do not want to put in shop cause every time she goes in I come out broke.
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