Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 Transmission Is Starting To Slip Occasionally
Aug 12, 2014
I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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I am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
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Drove the wife to work this morning. The turn off into town there was a lady stuck so I pulled over in the drifts. After putting in back in gear I had to get on it to get out of the drifts. Snow was blowing over the windshield, and I imagine throughout the engine bay.
After that it felt like it stayed in 2/3rd gear. I'd hit the pedal and it would redline and sort of accelerate jumping in and out of gears. So i slowed down to a stop. Accelerated slow and it was ok but when I got more on the pedal it would feel like it was slipping. Once I got in the driveway, she idled for about 15 mins while I shoveled out my spot. Once putting in gear again I had to rev it up for it to move.
Also reverse, had to rev it up to move it.
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A few weeks ago I noticed what seemed like a "slip" in my automatic transmission. Only happened a couple of times and I thought maybe it was just me imagining it or I didn't have the shift selector lever firmly in "D"rive. Then I went on a 4,000 mile trip pulling about 3,500 lbs. on mostly flat roads but it did include some 7% grades in the hilly parts... the truck performed flawlessly.
This is probably not related but ... after I got home, the truck sat for a few days and then I noticed a coolant puddle under the truck. Traced it down to what appeared to be a slow drip from a bad squeeze clamp on the large, lower rad hose connection. Replaced the squeeze clamp with 2 worm drive clamps and no leaking issue since.
Then last night, the tranny seemed to "slip". My short run across town started out OK. However, when I arrived at my destination, the diesel motor would rev to around 2500 rpm but the truck barely moved forward. It eventually did shift into second but also with high revs. It was the same feeling as if it were a manual tranny and you were giving it lots of throttle but only letting out the clutch a little bit (i.e. riding the clutch). This happened a couple of times last night. Also at a stoplight with the brakes on firmly, the truck was gently and rhythmically "rocking forward" as if the tranny was not fully disengaged.
When I worked through the gears shifting manually, the problem seemed to disappear and the truck responded going through the gears normally. Upon restart about an hour later, tranny shifted fine both in the city and at highways speeds on the way home.
B-I-L commented "sounds like your clutch is slipping". Not exactly sure what he meant as I had to leave. I'm hoping this will be a simple fix/adjustment and not the dreaded mechanical diode failure leading to a replacement tranny. Truck only has about 75,000 miles on it.
I'm suppose to head out on my annual vacation next week carrying a 3,500 lbs. truck camper and pulling a 3,000 lbs. cargo trailer with our gear. Obviously if the truck is sick, this trip can't happen. I know some of you would dive right in and start taking the tranny apart to repair it ... What is wrong with my transmission and what I should be doing next?
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I have a 2003 f250 4x4 with a 5.4 motor the automatic trans is shot. I can get a replacement trans from 2000 f250 4x4 with the v10 motor. I tried my best to research it bell housing supposed to be the same so it should fit. But I'm not sure what they changed in those years internally or electronically.
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2015 F 250, less then 5k miles. When towing travel trailer, weight 7500lbs, on occasion transmission will not shift out of gear. Happens in first, second, or third. Very intermittent. Take off from a stop engine goes to 6k rpm. Let foot of the throttle goes all the way back to idle, still no shift. Accelerate back up to speed still will not shift. After doing this a couple of times finally shifts. Have had this happen in second and third. Not a lot of fun with cars behind you or trying to merge on highway. No codes
First trip to Ford dealer they re calibrated computer. Still happened towing. Second trip to dealer they put a flight recorder on it and I towed again. Did not hang up in first or second ,but would not shift out of third on highway doing 70mph, even when I lifted from the throttle and coasted. I finally shifted to manual and shifted to fourth and was able to upshift After reading flight recorder mechanic said it appeared normal. I explained that having to shift the transmission manually is not really normal and they agreed.
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Engine light and error code for tps occasionally comes on , then stays off a while. parts store said it was ok (shows full range) , but ford has an update for computer to fix. engine is v10 and parts store erased code and it hasnt come back. the only indication that something was wrong is the light coming on and once on the interstate at high speed , then the off ramp slow down, the engine seemed to want to stall as if engine not matching actual speed for a few seconds, then it was ok again. I was out of town and the mechanic that looked at it told me to go to Ford for an update. He tested the tps and said it was ok.
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This happens very often when driving around, at first it was only if i stepped on the accelerator to quickly or braked to hard, the check engine light comes on and the truck idles. Nothing seems to be wrong except when i step on the accelerator nothing happens, it lasts about 5 seconds then the light goes out and im on my way. it has started happening more and more just at random times now. it seems quicken the down time if i pump the accelerator.
Second, it occasionally feels like the transmission slips. I'll be driving and when I accelerate the rpms will go up, then what feels like the tranny slipping and the rpms go down. there is a distinct rocking motion when this happens, but it works if I turn it off and on again, or if i just step on the gas the next few miles it seems to subside.
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I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
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I have the gas 5.4l in my 01 F250 Super Duty. I had to change out the leaking Heater hose before I could attack this other issue. The truck starts when it feels like it. I changed the fuel filter and it started fine. Then the next day it wouldn't. Later it would. However each time it does start it dies when throttled up. I am down to thinking it is the fuel pump. My question is, because changing the pump sucks about as bad as changing the heater hose. Can I install an inline fuel pump and deal with the sump pump in the tank later? Are there any Cons to doing this?
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I'm having multiple electrical problems and not sure if all related or not but they started at the same time.
1) Occasionally (getting more frequent) truck acts like its almost dead and wont start, but if i remote start it cranks right up
2) Radio doesn't shut off when I open the door, but if i close it and open again it does
3) phone staying connected to bluetooth but its acting up when trying use phone for music
Pretty sure there is more but I cant think of them now.
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My 2001 f250 on occasion will roll a very uncomfortable distance when I put it in park. Not all the time, but enough to concern me. It will roll a good 12-18" before the park rod or what have you engages. Doesn't seem to be affected by grade. Matter if fact it has always done it on just slight grades. Nothing like a boat ramp. It rolls enough that if someone had been front or back it would have bumped them.
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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I am looking at purchasing a 1999 f250 Crew Cab Long bed with the V10. It has 120,000 miles on it and has been very well taken care of and maintained. The current owner says that over the last couple of weeks it has started to start sporadically. The first time it did it was after a 30 minute drive. Parked the truck outside his garage and a hour later when he went to pull it in the garage, it wouldn't start. He called a mechanic friend that told him to trip the inertia switch.
Pressed the switch, it clicked, and then the truck fired right up. Since then it has done it twice more but now instead of tripping the inertia switch he turns the key on and off 10 times and then it starts right up. What this would be? I would normally think fuel pump since cycling the key on and off would be building pressure in the system if the pump was just starting to die but the inertia switch being tripped has me confused.
The owner thinks or was told that quickly turning the key off and on is resetting the computer and after turning the key 8 times the locks lock and unlock and the lights flash once. Is this what it is doing? I thought turning the key on and off in multiple succession let you manually read the codes...
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I have a 2008 for 250 6.4 powerstroke. Issue I am having is occasionally when I shift from drive to reserve it will slam when I shift to reverse. It is an intermittent issue. What causes this and what to do?
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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My 1999 F-250 wont start unless I use a squirt of fluid but once started it will run fine could this be my cam sensor or do I have an injector problem.
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1999 F250 SD V10 I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter. I operated the truck briefly after and everything was normal. I parked it with about 1/4 tank of new fuel and put it on a battery tender. It was parked in a garage on level ground in temperate weather(Southern Calif.). Two months later I tried to start it and it acted like it did when the fuel pump was bad. Cranked fine but no hint of starting. Could it be the fuel lines have become full of air and need purging through Schrader valve ? I haven't begun to troubleshoot but what to check other than pushing the fuel relay reset button.
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My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
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