I'm planning on doing a 2" level. Will I need a drop pitman arm, or can I stick with the stock pitman arm? Will I need anything else? I plan on doing the level when I replace my coil springs and shocks. (I have another thread on that). I'm driving a 2000 F250 V10 2WD CC SB (twin I-beam front axle) if that info is pertinent to this question.
View 2 RepliesI'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
View 11 RepliesI have a stock 2012 F250 6.7 Diesel. I was looking at getting new 18 or 20 inch rims for it and was wondering what the largest tire I could fit on those without rubbing on the truck would be. I know there are lots of topics on this but I could not find anything that applied to me. Most topics were on stock wheels.
View 1 RepliesI put on a pro comp 6" lift a few months ago and every week or two I have to crawl under the truck and tighten up that damm pit man arm nut...I can tell when it starts to get loose because the steering wheel gets sloppy...I have put red loctite and have gotten that nut as tight as I can get it with about a 3ft tube on the end of my wrench for extra leverage and still comes loose! I'm just about to grab my welder and fix it that way but there must be a better way!
View 14 Replieswant to raise the front of my 99 f250 super duty. I only found rough country for my options. I am looking for a 2-3" lift. Will the 3" lift spindles work fine? What else am i going to need? Shocks?
[URL].....
What size the pitman arm nut is? And where to get one? I am lifting my truck soon and I'm going to double nut that baby on there. I know they're prone to loosening. I just wanted to have all the parts before I started.
View 4 RepliesI just got a 2001 F250 with a Rebuilt V8 5.4 with 310,000 miles about two months ago I changed the oil about three weeks ago. I put full synthetic 5-20w and I went to check the level today and it was way low. I see no leaks and I don't see it mixing with the radiator fluid. Is this normal might it just be burning oil ? I do drive the truck at least 100 miles a day.
View 7 RepliesI just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
My '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
I drained the transmission fluid on my 2000 f250. I measured the fluid at about 6 quarts. I refilled with 6 quarts. I drove until the engine was hot and checked the fluid while running in park. Each time I check it I get a different reading on the dipstick. I wipe off the dipstick each time but sometimes I pull it out and it reads low. The next try it shows about 1/2 inch over full on the dipstick. Can't get two consistent readings. Is it harmful if it is a little over or under full?
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
View 4 Replies2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
View 2 Repliesmy 00 f250 has the air bag light on all the time. it does not flash it just stays solid. it was like this when i bought the truck @3 months ago. also the passenger air bag switch does not light up when you use it. is this causing my airbag light to stay on?
View 9 RepliesI just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
View 9 RepliesSo a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
View 13 RepliesI have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
View 1 RepliesDoes it need a diesel fuel injector?
View 2 RepliesI have a 4 inch lift on my truck and currently have 20x10 with 35x12.5 but I want to run a 20x12 with a 35x14.5 or maybe just a wider tire on my 10 inch wheels but idk how much bigger I can get on a 10 inch wheel
View 14 Replies