Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Tachometer Needle Will Not Always Move The Way It Supposed To
Jul 18, 2015
Just had a question about my 00 F250 7.3. I recently have noticed that my tachometer needle will not always move the way its supposed to. Sometimes it will sit at zero until I drive it for a min then all of a sudden pops up to where its supposed to be. I also noticed today that while i was driving it just dropped to zero for a second or two then back up to where it was supposed to be again.
When it does this there is no drivability issues with it or idle issues what so ever. Which is strange to me and I cannot seem to put my finger on what could be causing the issue. As I have searched online for a while to no avail as most of the other issues include drivability and idle issues. Also not that it matters but I have recently replace the cps sensor with a new one OEM of course but i don't think that has anything to do with this problem.
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It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
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I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
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The tach in my 01 F250 PSD has become intermittent. It works properly some of the time, not at all some of the time, and jumps up and down some of the time.
Does it get it's signal from the CPS? It has a blue CPS that's about a year old and the truck runs fine?
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I own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
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I have a 1999 F-250 V10, I went to get into my truck to go to Lowes and only to learn I forgot my wallet. Here is where my problem lye. I came back home and decided to wait until the next morning to go back to Lowes, so I go to get in my truck cranked it up and went to put in reverse and it didn't move. It is like it is in neutral; so I went and put it in drive and still, it would not move. It is like it is in neutral. I can not figure out what is going on with my truck.
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I have a 2005 F250 King Ranch 4X4 Diesel and now experiencing an issue with the front seat belts
The problem is while being worn sometimes they will not let you lean forward- they act like you have a foot on the brake pedal and are locked-you have to lean back and forth several times to get them to let out if reaching for something on the dash etc..
I have searched the forum and found many issues where the seat belts stopped retracting- but my issue seems to be unique in that the seat belt will at times 'Not Let Out" when you lean forward.
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Was driving my 2000 Ford F-350 stopped transmission would not move no more there was no noises no nothing just stopped pulling no gears nothing only Park works...
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My tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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my 00 f250 has the air bag light on all the time. it does not flash it just stays solid. it was like this when i bought the truck @3 months ago. also the passenger air bag switch does not light up when you use it. is this causing my airbag light to stay on?
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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I have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
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So a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
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I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
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I have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
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Does it need a diesel fuel injector?
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I have a 2002 F-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Last week, I replaced both my batteries. When I tried to start the truck, the electronics when a bit crazy. Speedometer and Tachometer swinging back and forth. Then when it did start it ran rough and after a minute it shut off. All electrical functions are completely dead. I finally unhooked the batteries and went in the house to cool off. When I came back, rehooked up the batteries, it started right up and everything acted normal. Everything was normal until last night, it started fine and was idling for about 5 minutes and it shut off. Absolutely, NO electrical power, even tried to jump start and still no electrical activity. Unhooked the batteries waited about 15 minutes, hooked them back up. It started just fine.
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05 F250 FX4
Gear position needle (little orange line for an automatic) isn't working. It stays in the 1st gear position.
Tired of counting the "clicks" to know which gear I am in. How hard is this to fix?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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