Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Parking Lights Not Working After Electrical Work
May 4, 2017
2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
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I'm having problems with my front marker lights. The turn signals work but when I turn on the parking lights or headlights they don't work. They only work with the turn signals. And I can't get the front side marker lights to come on. I've tried everything...
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I have a 2000 Ford F250 lariat 7.3 .... This vehicle has an aftermarket double din stereo pillar gauges for Pyro meter and transmission temp and has also had a snowplow attached but since re moved since I purchased it. It also has H ID headlights, which are run by the passenger side headlight connection.
The problem I'm having is that whenever I turn on the parking lights it is blowing the number eight fuse under the hood. Which is giving me no dash lights running lights parking lights or taillights. Initially the fuse would last for a few minutes and then burn out. I should also add that the trailer wiring harness doesn't work either and the driver side headlight will work sporadically.
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When I hook a trailer to my '04 F-250 the parking lights stay on. The lights on the truck are not on. I pulled the fuse for the towing lights and they will go out. Pulled what I believe to be the relay according to the owners manual and they still stay on. I have to unplug the trailer every time I stop for any period of time.
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My 2011 F250 has no front or rear running lights working, mirror side marker lights not working and fog lights not working. I have checked all fuses including 30amp trailer light fuse and they are good. The fuses in the passenger kick panel are not getting energized.
I replaced the switch with a friends from same truck and no luck there. The headlights, dash lights and turn signals work fine. Here's the kicker, when I back feed 12V to the yellow/blue wire at front running light it turns them all on, including mirror lights. I've switched out relays in the box under hood and that didn't work.
When I pull the switch on dash to turn on the fog lights the indicator in the switch doesn't work either, they are both listed on the same fuse but as I said, the fuses have continuity across the blades but when I test the socket there is no voltage going to them. I have not connected a trailer to see if those are out yet but will do today.
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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I recently had need of replacing my left exhaust manifold on a 2000 F250 4 x 4. I removed plastic inner fender well. Now I have a two pin harness with both white wires. One is white with red stripe, the other is white with black stripe. The harness is round with a locking square on one side. The harness is located about 10" from bottom of inner left plastic fender panel. It has 2 mounting pegs. Where the heck does this connect?
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The other day I was under my truck and noticed electrical plugs behind the front splash guards. What these might be for? I have a 00 F250 superduty XL model with the 5.4.
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I have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
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I have a 2001 f-250 that has dome lights that work on occasion. Mostly don't work. The inside dash dimmer won't turn them on. And they will sometimes work with the rear doors opening. Not the front(4 doors). The cargo light comes on all the time. So I don't know where to start chasing.
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My 2011 f250 is stuck in park and the brake lights do not work. I have changed the brake switch but still wont shift out of park.
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The flashers and blinkers work, the taillights, brake lights and back up lamps do not.
The truck is a 2004 F250 4x4... Checked all fuses. What am I missing?
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I'm having issue with my brake lights. Checked for voltage and nothing. Checked the fuses under the dash. Checked the brake pedal switch and have power going out when the pedal is pressed. Is there a relay or something somewhere else? 1999 f250 7.3 superduty....
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
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2000 V10 F250 - daughter is using my truck and called to tell me the turn signals weren't working. She called me shortly after and said she adjusted the tilt and hazard lights came on and now she can't turn them off. I had her pull the hazard fuse to stop them. She then noticed the brake light weren't working. I don't know if the brake lights were because she pulled the fuse or she just noticed they weren't working.
A week or two ago, she said she parked the truck, turned it off and took the keys. When she came back out, the truck had rolled across the street. Periodically, over the years, I would go to start the truck and nothing happened. I would shift the gear selector in and out of drive. Then the truck started.
Finally, since I've owned the truck, the when I activated the left turn signal, the selector frequently wouldn't stay "locked" till I turned. So, are these related? Do I have multiple issues going on in the steering column. Where to start looking when she gets the truck home?
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I just purchased a '12 f250 Lariat w/ 39k miles. When I got home I noticed one of the three LED running board lights does not work on the passenger side. Can I replace this myself?
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2012 f250, fog lights stopped working and tried fixing yesterday. I'm getting 12.8v at the plug but as soon as you plug the light in it goes to 0. Ran a new ground from frame and the hot from plug and still nothing. High beams off, truck running and switch pulled out. Bulb is fine, hooked it straight to battery and it comes on. I though it was a faulty ground but by running a separate ground and still nothing. I'm at a lose.
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I have a 2012 F250 and am having a problem where the interior lights wont come on with the dash switch or when the doors are opened. I have confirmed that it is not a bad fuse, also the lights will come on when the switch on the individual lights is manually pushed, but not automatically like they are supposed to. I dont see it being a door switch issue because the door chime comes on and the stereo goes off when the doors are opened after turning the ignition switch off. I've read that the dealerships will switch out the BCM. I thought maybe the dimmer switch next to the headlight switch but there is no power to it whatsoever, which also I can't dim the instrument panel lights. What did you do to resolve?
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I have a 2005 F250 that the brake lights are not working when brakes are applied. The rear blinkers and flashers are working. what could be my problem.
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Just got a 2001 F-250 Super Duty (crew cab, long bed, 4x4, 7.3L turbo diesel) and have been going through and fixing a lot of little issues. The one that now has me stumped is the interior lighting circuit (which is also the bed light). Here's what I've got so far:
Map/reading lights work, but dome lights do not (neither automatically nor when turning them on via the dimmer switch). Verified all fuses in the PDC as well as the interior fuse panel (behind the driver side knee panel). The interior lighting relay was missing, so I purchased and installed it.
Relay #1 (interior lighting), fuse #4, and fuse #14 are all good - when I pull the fuse with the door open, the relay clicks (and clicks again upon reinstalling the fuse). With the doors closed, the relay clicks when activating the interior lights via the dimmer switch.
The LT GRN/YEL wire is hot, and all related accessories work (map lights, engine bay light, etc).
The BLK/LT BLU wire is not receiving power from the relay from what I can tell.
Before I start trying to pull out the fuse panel to start checking connectivity, anything else to check? The ground at the rear driver corner of the cab is good, and a visual check of the harness running down the driver side of the cab has no visible signs of damage.
Also, given that the relay is audibly actuating the way it should, I'm guessing that the GEM can be ruled out as a possible cause? My next step will be to get a pinout diagram for the relay and crimp a quick jumper to see whether or not it's simply a defective relay... But I doubt it's the case.
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