2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission.
I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced.
I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.
I have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
I've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
My 03 F250 7.3 is making a grinding noise when I let my foot off the accelerator and coast in 4x4, I replaced the hubs with new warn premium hubs and it is still making the noise. The noise does not occur when I take it out of 4x4.
View 2 RepliesOkay this is what I got; I recently purchased high mileage 2004 F250 Super Duty short box super cab 5.4 liter. Came with manual 4x4 handle on the floor so no 4 wheel on the fly and this eliminates the vacuum for the auto hubs so this will not be part of the problem. When engaging the hubs and ONLY when engaged the driver side hub grinds. The 4 wheel drive works but it sounds like its ready to grind itself into oblivion. I did pull the hub and the grinding was gone, I happen to have a spare hub that is good and the grinding returned.
I have jacked it up and made sure I have no play in the wheel itself and the axle knuckle on the axle shaft. Some say remove the front drive shaft? Or turn the wheels all the way in one direction engage the hubs and check for binding? I will do this in the morning, but what does that confirm if it not the hub. Could it be the passenger side echoing across? On my 99 Super duty I kept hearing moaning coming from up front like the breaks were shot and if you stuck your head out the window it was the back echoing to make it sound like the front.
The problem I am having is that there is a grinding noise when in park. If i shift into gear then it is fine but shifting back to park very big grinding noise. At the same time I have the Speedometer and fan for the heat not working as well as the heater for the seats.
This problem is so bad I am afraid to drive and get stuck somewhere. I have checked the starter and it is tight ad secure. all fluids are fine. Not sure what this would be? This is the single vehicle i have for work and family.
So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
View 6 RepliesFirst off my trucks a 2000 v10 f250 with four-wheel drive and 2 wheel abs with about 230000 miles on it.
I Recently replaced my unit bearing on my drivers side because I thought it was the cause of a grinding that only happens on hard left turns but I wasnt the cause it was going bad causing play in the half shaft. I didnt seem to notice and wear on the shaft from bad needle bearings but I have to take it all apart again to be sure. Was just wondering what else could be the cause of this noise. I plan to pull the axel shaft and change all the seals.
I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
Having an issue w/ my 00 550. When I lock in the hubs there is instantly a noise, More of a squealing then a grinding. The truck goes in and out of 4x4 no problem and the noise is there locked in 4x4 and not locked in, as long as the hubs are locked in. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the 4x4 driveshaft but there is no noticeable play in the u-joints or the u-joints in the front axle. I did notice when I spin the 4x4 shaft by hand the passenger side joint spins slower then the driver, not sure if that's normal or could be the problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
So, yesterday when I got home I stopped at the barn to unload a few bails of hay and when I got back in to crank it, nothing happened. I turned the key and nothing, so I figured I would just worry about it today. However, when I turned the key back to off and started to take it out all sorts of stuff started to happen. There was a clicking noise and a dinging, not like when the door is open. It was quicker. Also, when I turned my key back on none of my dash lights or radio came on. Nothing happens now, except the strange clicking when the key is off or out. The first thing I thought of was the GEM or fuse box.
View 3 RepliesI am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
I have a 2000 F250 5.4 that has a ticking/knocking noise. After about 30-60 seconds of first starting the truck in the morning, the ticking/knocking noise appears. It sounds like its coming through the exhaust system and seems to be louder under the front passenger side wheel well. When I rev the engine up, it seems to go away. Does this engine have a cam phaser? Could it be timing chain slap?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 2wd 6spd with a loud banging noise that has been vexing me for quite sometime now. The bang happens when I go over bumps (even small ones like road reflectors) while driving. I don't think it is suspension related since all the ball joints, front/rear swaybar and endlink bushings have been replaced fairly recently. All the springs and bushings also look okay.
The noise seems to come from the rear, and I notice that if I let off the gas when I go over a bump, it does not make a sound. Conversely, if I am accelerating aggressively and hit a bump, the sound is much louder. Also, if I step on the clutch while keeping my foot steady on the gas, it makes a bang. Jumping up and down in the bed while the truck is parked does not recreate the sound. I have already greased the driveshaft spline joint so I'm thinking the sound might be differential or transmission related. What it could be?
My 2000 f250 7.3 has pretty sloppy steering and noise in the front end when going over bumps. I have replace the drop links, swap bar bushings, both wheel hubs including new seals and the drag link. The rest of the front end seems to be in good shape. I put it up on jack stands and there is some movement in the front end but it seems to all be in the steering box.
Steering box appears to be original with 220k miles. I went to tighten it and it appears the PO did it at least once already. Is it safe to try tightening it again? Does tightening it increase the risk of failure? I'd like to try tightening it first but not at the risk of losing steering at 65mph with my kids in the truck.
When my truck is parked, I go to the rear tire and shake it back and forth and hear a slight clunking noise from either the tire or rear end. Its like the axle is making the noise?
2000 7.3 Power Strke Super Crew 4x4
I Have a 1999 f250 7.3 diesel with the zf5 manual transmission and to shift gears I need to push the clutch all the way to the floor. Could this possibly be the slave and master cylinder or is it the clutch?
View 14 RepliesI bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
View 1 Replies