Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal
Jun 4, 2017
I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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I have a problem with an 2000 F250 7.3 6spd. Recently, the "key in the ignition" chime kept dinging even when no key was in the ignition. I read in the forums that a wire can be disconnected to stop the chime. The problem is that after I re-install the cylinder lock, I cannot move the key to the off position to remove the key. I can rotate it to start and run, but it won't move backwards to the off or acc position.
The truck has this little lever that normally needs to be pushed to allow key to be released, but even after pushing that, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and messing with the tilt, I still can't get the key into the off position. I have removed the cylinder and it looks good. It rotates properly and I can remove the key, but only when it isn't installed. I tried replacing the ignition switch, but the lock cylinder still doesn't move.
I have an 04 F250 that I've tried swapping the lock cylinders from the 04 to the 00, but it still doesn't turn. What might be the cause/fix? Also, the 2000 F250 has a intermittent chirping/squeaking sound under the dash that happens even when the batteries are disconnected - might this be a malfunctioning vacuum motor? It happens even though the truck hasn't been driven for a week.
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I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
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I have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
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So I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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I'm about to install a Undercover swing case and my locking cable mechanicism is in the way. I've taken everything off besides one bolt completely dead middle of the reel. I don't see how in the world you get to this bolt at all without destroying the reel. Any input?
I'd like to keep the bed lock cable in-tact so i can install it in the front.
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I dont want to pry on the wrong thing and brake something. I am trying to remove the headlight. I was told that their are some pins that need to be pulled up. I dont see any pins. I do see two plastic clips on each side of the headlight. They are flat on the top with a small slot in them. There is a "T" stamped on the top of it. Are these the pins? I tried to find a shop manual today without much luck. Looking for a picture to show the pins that need to be removed.
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I am trying to replace the ball joint on my 2008 f-250. Does the hub assembly come off of the knuckle or do you remove the whole knuckle and hub assembly together? If you have to remove the hub assembly what is the best way?
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I just had the bed and tailgate on my 2004 replaced with a 2015. The body shop took my old lock cylinder out to put in the new tailgate. The old tailgate is only a year old and I wanted to sell it. The issue is that the latch will not open the tailgate. I can manually unlatch it by pulling the rods. Does the lock cylinder not being installed somehow affect this and need to be installed for it to function properly or do the rods simply need to be adjusted?
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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I tried searching and googling but came to no results, unless its like similar trucks. How do the 4x4 shift remove? I have an 04 F250 and someone decided to put the shift on sideways so the 4HI and etc read upside down before I purchased the truck. Do I just rip the thing off?
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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I have a 1999 F-250 SRW 4x2. Is there a post that explains how to remove the front brake slide pins?
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Yesterday I returned my F-250 SUPERDUTY 5.4 To stock on the sct flash tuner that came on the truck. after returning it to stock i tried to start the truck to leave about an hour later and instantly wouldnt start it backfired. we returned it back to the tune that was on the truck, still no start. we replaced the starter, the battery still nothing. if it sits for a little while it will attempt to turn over. it has a strong odor of gas in which led me to possibly thinking its vapor locked? or the pcm being bad or maybe the crank shaft sensor? the truck has ran strong and had zero problems up until now when we took the tuner off. it runs about 6 codes now, a few being the kam the o2 and low voltage.
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i've done some searching but haven't found any how-to's or instructions on how to remove the front bumper on my 06 f250. Any link on how to do it?
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What a 1999 f250 super duty triton v10 would have for a front axle and why mine won't lock in 4x4 at the front drivers side hub it have warn hubs and will lock in on passenger side but on divers with ether just grind or not go in at all...
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Working on my 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4. Replacing front sway bar link arms and sway bar bushings. I got the driver side arm and the sway bar bushings done and have run into a problem removing the passenger side link arm. When removing the top connection bolt there's not enough clearance when extracting. I've gotten it loose, but as I go to pull it off, it butts up against the bell housing with about an inch of bolt left to clear the frame.
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I started with removing the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the crossmember that attaches on each side of the frame, well the clip that basically would hold the "nut part" of the bolt on the top side sheared on both of them due to salt+calcium chloride.
It felt like there was a 6 point head up there so I tried fitting wrenches and sockets up on the other side, I finally got a good hold with an 11/16" wrench but it just kept rounding more and more. Normally I would just torch the heads off but the gas tank is right next to it.
Any tips for getting the carrier bearing bolts out now? I don't care if I destroy it they're easy to replace. Also I'm typing this from my phone so Incase my sig doesn't show this is on my 02 f250 crew short bed 4x4
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I've got a 2014 f250 xl super cab and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the back seat back.
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How do you get the door chime to go away when the key is still in the ignition?
Also, how do stop the driver seat from moving every time the key is removed?
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