Horn isn't working found fuse blown. Replaced fuse and horn stays on. Swapped relays still stays on. With fuse out pressing left side of horn cover on steering wheel I can feel/hear relay click. Pressing right side not so much. What and where to check? Is there a way to disconnect the horn buttons on the steering wheel?
View 1 RepliesMy wifes truck is having some issues right now. Last week I was driving it down the highway, and the gauges all went off, the door buzzer was sounding, and the door locks where going up and down constant when I had my foot off the gas pedal. Found the fuse and fixed it with a replacement, but its down it three times all together since then?
View 9 RepliesI noticed I was not shifting into 4x4 electronically and replaced the blown fuse in the engine compartment. Now the 4x4 light goes on, but I don't think it is engaging the system...
The back end breaks free very easily, but there seems to be a little pull in the front. Is it possible to have unequal power to the wheels?
Am i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
View 1 RepliesDid the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
View 1 RepliesOkay so I have an e99 f250 7.3 the problem all started went I hit a puddle the other day. My horn started going crazy and wouldn't shut off so I had to pull the fuse and relay. After that I found another problem, all my dash lights,headlights and running lights will not turn off unless I pull the battery terminals, it does not matter which way the headlight switch is it can be on or off and they stay on. I did find it though if I pull the negative terminals and put them back on the lights stay off if I turn the switch on and try to turn the lights back off with the switch they stay stuck on again untill I pull the terminals what could be the problem I've looked at every fuse and can't find the probelm.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 V10, 150,000 miles, gas, very basic truck (no power windows, no cruise, no security system, no power locks, etc). In it's previous life, it was an IDOT highway truck I purchased at auction in 2005. Used primarily to pull horse trailer, less than 2000 miles per year. Stored under cover when not in use. Windshield leaks very little, but generally not used when raining.
Last week, 9pm, horn starts blaring solid tone. I go out and unlock door, open door, it stops. I start truck, still fine, turn truck off. Lock door, close door, starts blaring again. I reopen door, leave unlocked, close door, then get intermittent beeps. I reopen door, disconnect battery because it's late, I was going out of town, and felt bad for my neighbors. Just got back in town, too afraid to reconnect battery and not be home in case it starts going off again. I had last used the truck about 36 hours before the horn started going off, weather about 70 degrees overnight.
I've read other threads, but can't find one that fits (I have no cruise, kept out of rain, not freezing cold, not diesel).
The brake light stays on all the time. It started 5+ years ago going out intermittently, then began going out more frequently for longer as the years went by, until now, where it stays on continuously (except for one small miracle where it cam back on during a short drive around town). I don't normally care if it stays on, but for the first time in 7 years I'm going on a long road trip and can not engage cruise control with the light on.
View 9 Replies2005 F250 4x4, manual locking hubs, ABS light stays on. Plugged it up, front sensors had a bad signal. Replaced both front sensors, still had light. Pulled out the sensors, cleaned the sensor rings the best we could with a little screwdriver. Installed the sensors, cleared the codes. Drove the truck a few miles, light came back on. Plugged it up, same codes. Removed the sensors and there was grease back on the sensor rings. Cleaned it up again, ran through the motions, drove it, light comes back on. Is there supposed to be grease on the sensor ring? It keeps coming back in every time it is driven. My next guess would be the hub bearings are going bad?
View 4 RepliesBeen searching but can't find a clue. I replaced my steering gear box. Went fine, but after starting back up. My alarm goes off, my cruise or horn doesn't work and my air bag is giving a code 32.
Is there a ground wire or something I could of missed when installing the gear box?
The spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
View 2 RepliesThe other day I was checking out my parking aids (they kept saying something was behind me when there was nothing there) and the horn just started blowing by itself, constant on until I disconnected the batteries. Been a few days and just got back to working on it, checked the horn switch in the airbag and it is functioning fine. Hooked the batteries back up, no horn, but after a couple of minutes I start getting little honks out of it, then locked on again. Where I should go from here? Truck was parked, switch off, engine off today when I hooked the batteries up. Never started it or turned the key on.
View 6 RepliesI have a f250 super duty. I blew a brake line the main going to the rear. So the genius that I am I replaced the line an simple enough I decide hell why not replace the master cylinder too, so I did an I bleed the brakes an everything works jst fine but now the the brake light won't turn off I have tried everything not sure what could possibly cause the light to stay on. I will eliminate some suggestions, I bleed the brakes, the brake fluid is full, the level sensor is completely attached, the parking brake is not on, I pulled the parking brake completely out, even completely disconnected the sensor thinking it would turn off bu it didn't.
View 1 RepliesThe truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
I have an 01 f250 5.4l standard. #19 fuse keeps blowing. I hAve taken the gauge cluster out and do not see any wires melted or burned. It blows the fuse as soon as I turn the key over. I have read things saying the overdrive but that doesn't work with mine.
View 4 RepliesI have 2005 F250 6.0 XLT. I was driving the other night and all of a sudden my dash lights went out. I noticed I was being flashed from other drivers and discovered that my parking lights are not working. A preliminary check of fuses I discovered fuse #17 (15a mini) was blown. I installed and new one and upon turning my lights on, the fuse popped again. My headlights and turn signals work properly. It appears I have a wire shorted to ground somewhere on this circuit.
The truck is completely stock with the exception of an aftermarket radio which I installed two years ago.
I checked all the fuses with my test light and they are all correct (both sides of each fuse). I disconnected the gray connector and black connector in the driver side rear of the truck to isolate the issue. New fuse pops as soon as I turn lights on. I completely removed the tail lights, trailer 7 pin connector , completely removed both headlights. I did not disconnect the roof running lights or the mirror lights. I am completely stumped.
I just bought a 2012 Ford 4x4 F250 6.2 gas, when I get out of the truck the dome light/cargo light stay on for 9 to 10 minutes before they go out, someone said to spray the door latches and this should clear up, I have tried that and the lights do still stay on, there is an error code of left rear door ajar, my guess is something/sensor or switch has to be replaced, wondering what it takes for replacement/repair of the switch
View 14 RepliesJust bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
View 7 Replies2004 5.4L F-250 ... it's a one owner truck I bought brand new in 2003 and only has 50,000 miles on it.
I have the 2V 5.4 engine no tuner or chip. 4x4 with 4" lift and 35's and I changed the rear to 4.88's. I love the truck but my problem is when I hit a large bump or drive too fast on a dirt road the fuse#23 that controls the PCM will blow. Consistently. I have to keep a box of 20 amp fuses handy. I have a 2 post lift in my shop and have scoured over every wire that is connected to the fuse. The EVAP solenoid, AC Clutch, Transmission solenoids and the O2 sensors. I only have 2 sensors I could find one on each side of the headers.
I couldn't find any rubbing wires or exposed wires. I am at a loss. It only happens when I hit a large bump. Could it be the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid?
My brother in law is a mechanic and he brought over the diagnostic computer and when it blew while hooked up he seemed to think it was the TCC solenoid because when it engages the chart shows it angling up but when it disengages it drops off straight like it should. My truck seems to run fine when the fuse isn't blown, but when it blows it goes into a limp mode with the tranny stuck in 3rd or 4th gear and I have to drive it home in 1st.
I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
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