Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Front Shock Mounts?
Sep 10, 2014
I need to know what the name of the part is that the front shock mounts to on my 2000 f250. Its terribly rusted on both sides and id like to learn more about replacing it. Might me called a shock mount? It saddles around the main frame on the truck.
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I have a noise with my new (2.6k miles) 2000 Diesel F250 Crew Cab. When I make low speed, right turns while crossing any type of depression in the road I hear a loud knock as if the left shock is bottoming out. There's an intersection near my house with runoff depressions across the road, I almost always hear the noise when making that turn. I've occasionally heard it coming from the right side when making a left turn.
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As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
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I have a 2000 f250 4x4 with 4 wheel abs. The front passenger side caliper keeps locking up while I'm driving and won't release and when I hit the brakes it pulls hard to the drivers side. I have put two calipers on the passengers side and put new brake lines on.
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Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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The other day I was under my truck and noticed electrical plugs behind the front splash guards. What these might be for? I have a 00 F250 superduty XL model with the 5.4.
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My 2000 f250 7.3 has pretty sloppy steering and noise in the front end when going over bumps. I have replace the drop links, swap bar bushings, both wheel hubs including new seals and the drag link. The rest of the front end seems to be in good shape. I put it up on jack stands and there is some movement in the front end but it seems to all be in the steering box.
Steering box appears to be original with 220k miles. I went to tighten it and it appears the PO did it at least once already. Is it safe to try tightening it again? Does tightening it increase the risk of failure? I'd like to try tightening it first but not at the risk of losing steering at 65mph with my kids in the truck.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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What is the size of the bolts on the rear axle that hold the shock absorber? I believe its an M12 x70 mm long??
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I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
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my 00 f250 has the air bag light on all the time. it does not flash it just stays solid. it was like this when i bought the truck @3 months ago. also the passenger air bag switch does not light up when you use it. is this causing my airbag light to stay on?
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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I have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
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So a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
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I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
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I have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
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Does it need a diesel fuel injector?
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I trying to find the distance/length of a 2005 4x4 onward front radius arm. I'm fitting a 2004 Cummins nv5600 and transfer case into a 1997 fzj80 Landcruiser. I'm also fitting front and rear diff/axles from a 2008 f350 however don't have the radius arms and late model f250 are extremely rare birds here as Ford don't sell them here. I want the distance from the rear bush in the radius arm(at the chassis) to the front bush (top and bottom) at the diff/axle....
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