Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Door Lock Won't Work With Key
Feb 22, 2015
I have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
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Today I purchased a 2002 f250 GAS super duty 5.4. The first thing I've noticed wrong is: The driver door doesn't lock with the remote control but the passenger door does. I also noticed: when I shut the driver door, the dome light comes on and stays on but when i open the driver door, it shuts off (as if something's reversed). Do you think these two situations are related, and how can I fix it?
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2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
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I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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I just bought a 2000 super duty F250 Triton V10 and the auto door locks don't work. They try to work as in tug an eighth of an inch but won't successfully engage or disengage. Thought it might just be the switch inside the door handle but they don't work on the passenger side etc either.
Also two days after I bought it I found out first hand that these motors spit out spark plugs and i had to replace the plug and coil. I was told that there is a tool that I can tap out the heads with and then put inserts in so i no longer have this problem. Where do i get that tool and how much are they? Is it true that pulling the plugs can strip out the heads because i bought all new plugs for the truck and was then told that it will strip out the heads.
How many quarts of oil does this engine hold and should i use a certain type of oil? It has high miles but purrrr'ss like a kitten.
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2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
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2000 crew cab powerstroke 4x4... It's a XLT, six inch lift, weld wheels, BFG all terrain (50%). 277,000. One owner. Clean Carfax. All service done by purchase dealer. Mostly stock other than that. Dealer just replaced AC compressor and charged system. Interior is good, except for driver's edge seat. Good cleaning and ok.
The (my?) Truck.Downside. Power door locks make noise but don't work, remote mirror switch intermittent, stereo broken. During my test drive (alone) it drove straight, stopped straight and hard. 4x4 engaged and worked well. No noise in system. Good acceleration. No rattles or noises. Doesn't drip anything on the ground. Cruise and all accessories work.
I'm supposed to go in Monday. My girl is afraid of the mileage. But it seems well maintained for 17 years old. Is 10k an acceptable price? They wanted 11,900. Anything I should be looking for?
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2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
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2000 V10 F250 - daughter is using my truck and called to tell me the turn signals weren't working. She called me shortly after and said she adjusted the tilt and hazard lights came on and now she can't turn them off. I had her pull the hazard fuse to stop them. She then noticed the brake light weren't working. I don't know if the brake lights were because she pulled the fuse or she just noticed they weren't working.
A week or two ago, she said she parked the truck, turned it off and took the keys. When she came back out, the truck had rolled across the street. Periodically, over the years, I would go to start the truck and nothing happened. I would shift the gear selector in and out of drive. Then the truck started.
Finally, since I've owned the truck, the when I activated the left turn signal, the selector frequently wouldn't stay "locked" till I turned. So, are these related? Do I have multiple issues going on in the steering column. Where to start looking when she gets the truck home?
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty with the V10 engine. I purchased it when it was @111k miles. When I got it the passenger side lock did not always work and after time they both stopped. I have ready the post on how to repair them for little or no money that is not my question. My question Is there a way that I can tell if the truck had a remote for the locks when it was new and if not could I put it in the truck? Yes my wife likes that I unlock her door first but a remote would be nice when it is raining.
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My door locks stopped working new battery in fob, I can hear them trying to work. 2000 f250 crew cab .....
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What a 1999 f250 super duty triton v10 would have for a front axle and why mine won't lock in 4x4 at the front drivers side hub it have warn hubs and will lock in on passenger side but on divers with ether just grind or not go in at all...
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I have an 04 f250 the 4wd won't lock in for some reason. The truck has manual locking hubs (turn them to the right to lock in 4wd or turn them to the left to unlock them) and I get the light on the dash just fine but the truck doesn't actually lock in.
When i I put it in 4 low it feels like it's in but it's not. I also noticed that when I put it in park while it's in 4 low it makes a crazy sound like it would when you put a car in park while you're still moving and the park pin makes that clicking noise.
Anywhere in particular I should start to look? Nothing up in the front end looks abnormal or out of place.
I've had the truck 10 years. Never had any 4wd related issues. I did however replace the transmission in December (and I did successfully use the 4wd after the transmission was installed).
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I am again trying to fix my truck. 2005 F-250 6.0 4wd, automatic. Truck now has 89K on it. Truck does not seam to go into lockup mode while driving down the road. it started just after I spun my wheels in a snow storm. No symptom's previous to this. No codes in dash no lights and also no codes when I checked it with an obd code reader.
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I've been researching a problem with my power door lock. On my 2002 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab PSD (not the 76' SuperCab)] since Saturday when they began demonstrating the following symptoms:
1) No response to key fob (either lock or unlock)
2) No response to door switches (initially responded to unlock command only)
3) Whenever the key fob or door switch is pushed, a clicking noise from behind the dash occurs for about 15-20 seconds
4) When the key is in the ignition, the clicking from behind the dash is constant
5) Intermitantly, the actuators attempt to lock the doors when I close the door
6) Intermitantly, the locks will respond to some comands
7) Auto down feature on the driver's door window stopped working.
I found the clicking was coming from a unit behind the radio and just above the transmission hump on the firewall.
There are several threads on power door locks and I thought it might work others to have short summary and some links in one post as I just spent the last two days finding and reading these.
The most popular fix involves pulling the actuators apart to remove a thermistor from the motor that is prone to failure. This apparently rejuvinates the actuator motors and the directions for completing this are listed here Power Door Locks FIXED It's a long thread, but there are lots of step-by-step directions including pictures etc.
I tried this on mine, but it didn't work. The clicking from behind the dash is a different problem. At least when I get this fixed I'll have good actuator motors.
The next most popular fix simply involves spraying WD-40 into the door latches (not the hinges, but the latches). This seems to work for many people who have problems with the dome light staying on and other door switch related problems. Check out Door Open Light On Dash What Up? for more info on that.
I tried this too, but, unfortunately, the clicking is more than can be solved with a little WD-40. The Door Open Light On thread had some references to the Vehicle Security Module.
I found a number of threads on clicking from behind the dash and these threads all seem to point to a problem with the General Electrical Module (GEM) or the Vehicle Security Module (VSM). From what I could find, the VSM may have been a new part introduced in 2002 that replaced the GEM (but I'm not sure about this). Here are a couple of the more useful threads I found:
VSM Theory
Dash Open Light On Dash What Up?
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I have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
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I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
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Can I disable the automatic door lock mechanism? Maybe pull a fuse? All of a sudden the locks start locking and unlocking over and over and the lights dim. I would like to disable the automatic and use the key to lock and unlock the doors. It is a 2002, F-250-Super Duty 4x4 SuperCab.
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I have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
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2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
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