Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Crank But No Start / Turns Over Just Fine But No Fire
Jun 23, 2016
I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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I have a '99 F-250 super duty with a 5.4 L engine and I am having trouble starting it. Initially it wouldn't turn over at all, so I had the battery checked, it was fine, and after charging it the engine would turn over very, very slowly once or twice then stop. I then replaced the starter and now it turns over very erratically but wont start.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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On occasion, the last 2 weeks, my truck doesn't like to start, sometimes it will start to crank for one second and then quit. i've tried moving my gear shift through the drive selection range (park, neutral, reverse and drive). i just replaced the starter relay on the fender well because i can always start the truck by jumping across the terminals... no joy. So now ( i think) my issue is between the key switch and the starter relay. i replaced the neutral safety switch about 18 months ago.
99 F250 V10 short bed, 123,000 miles ....
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My dad has a 04 f250 5.4 auto. The motor turns over but very slow and will not start. He's put two new starters on. I went and looked at it and figured it was loose cables or corrosion, but it was fairly clean, and tight. We decided to pull the battery out of his van that he drives everyday, and I cleaned everything very good. Same thing. Pulled the belt to make sure nothing was lockup, same thing. Truck was running and starting great, then just did this one morning on him.
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I have been trouble shooting a no crank no start issue for a couple years now. Been back to the dealer several times to no avail. Very long story, with all due respect, don't suggest that I go back to the dealer on this. Not happening. Every once in a while the truck would strand me with no crank no start. It would read trailer brake module fault. Sometimes the security light would flash and the alarm would sound. Recently, I have had it on IDS and noticed that while it was doing this, IDS had no communication to the ECU.
I checked IDS with my other truck and it had good communication with that ECU so I know the computer/IDS works. Pulled battery cables and checked all the fuses... checked ok. Went back in the truck tried it, still no crank. Left key on, popped hood to listen for fuel pump... nothing. Went to pop cover off the fuse block and as soon as I touched it the fuel pump started whining. Went back in the truck and it started. Plugged IDS back in and had good communication and read ECU. I googled around for a part number but came up empty.
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2002 F250 V10....
Ambient temp is 4-9 degrees
Step-son borrowed truck. I started it at 9 in the morn and moved it to a different parking spot on street. No problem starting.
Step-son came at 11 and took truck. It started no problem.
He drove it to work. At 5 p.m. would crank, but not start. A jump got it running.
On charger all night. Would not crank this morn. Would not crank even when jumped.
Are we looking at a bad battery or something else?
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I have a ford f250 super duty and it wont start I have checked obvious reasons and I think it might be a crank shaft sensor. Just curious, is there two of them one for right bank and left bank or just one on drivers side?
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I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
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My 92 f250 5.8l 5 speed, out of no where when I try to start it I get absolutely nothing, when I put the key in the on position and short the solenoid it starts up that's how I've been starting it? When I try to start it regularly it's almost as if trying to start it without pressing the clutch it literally does nothing.
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I have 1999 f250 powerstroke, batteries are fully charged but when you put key in ignition and turn you get nothing. No dash lights, no crank, nothing. I cleaned the battery terminals on both batteries, checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood.
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The factory remote start is not working on my 2009 F 250. The red light is lit when I push the button, the doors lock and you can hear something engage in the engine but it does not crank it. If I keep holding the button the alarm starts to go off. When I walk up to truck the radio is on and I need to hit the remote start button to shut everything down before manually staring.
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We just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
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So a truck that was running fine Sat for 2 weeks. Battery died so i sent some coworkers to jump it. They tried using a welder which they didn't get turned down enough. Now the wiper motor stays on even without the key. Radio doesn't work but the dash light still comes on. With a new battery installed it turns over but doesn't start. I know something had to get fried but where to start. Thinking about replacing all fuses and relays...
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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Been driving my 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 with no problems then started noticing it lacking power so I changed fuel filter and air filter. After a week goes by I was at work and I was leaving to come home so I started truck to let warm up and it cranked longer than normal but started. Let run about 10 minutes idle nicely when I punched it it bogged down and had no power never died. I idled over into parking lot and power came so I took off again loss all power again, still never died. Got it right back to my work sat there a bit and tried again this time I took it easy and was able to get my truck home 30 so miles.
When I got home I ran codes p1211 came up for the icp sensor I changed it did not change anything still had same problem. This was a Saturday afternoon to evening issue. So sunday I played around with it just checking out info online and test driving it seem to run ok but still lacking power. Let it sit till Monday I went out to start it had to cycle key 3 time before it started idle nicely then died would not restart changed ipr valve nothing changed cam sensor nothing changed some how 10 quarts low in oil just changed dec. 30th don't know ? Now will start if I pump throttle and has all its power back?
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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I have a 2006 f-250 powerstroke with 97000 on it egr delete exhaust and a h and s xrt pro on it. The pickup will always start when the engine and oil is cool, but once i run it for a while it and the oil gets warm it wont start back up again. I then have to leave it sit for a while and it will start. The engine just cranks but does not fire. I have replaced the dummy plugs on both sides and all the injector o rings on the passenger side. Some mechanic friends of min have had same problemed 6.0 liters and replaced these and it has fixed the problems I do not think it my high pressure pump.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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