My wifes truck is having some issues right now. Last week I was driving it down the highway, and the gauges all went off, the door buzzer was sounding, and the door locks where going up and down constant when I had my foot off the gas pedal. Found the fuse and fixed it with a replacement, but its down it three times all together since then?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 f 450 cab and chassis truck that the problem started out with the radio not coming on. So I asked the local dealer and he gave me a wiring diagram. I pulled the fuse box out and checked the wire from the fuse box to the radio and it works. Great. But he also said I could take the fuse box apart and check to see if their was a broken connection in it. So I did and could only get so far with it. It has a lot of pin on one side that go all the always through and are soldered on both ends. So I put it all back together and reinstalled it. Now the instrument cluster does not work. Not even the warning lights. The interior light doesn't come on either or the door chime. Is it possible to melt the solder off and open the fuse box completely and check all the connections.
View 1 RepliesI have 2002 F250 4x4 with 5.4 V8. It has auto locking hubs. If I haven't used the 4wd lately I have to manually lock the hubs in, right side sticks, so I have to use pliers to lock into place. After a few times it works in auto fine. Anyway my issue. I went to use my 4wd so I manually locked the hubs, hopped in the truck and flipped it into 4wd. When I did the instrument cluster died. Radio, power windows and locks, turn signals all work. I just don't have any speedo, tach, fuel gauge, water temp, battery, no odometer. All went blank. I checked some of the fuses that I thought it could be from the owners manual but still no luck.
View 3 RepliesI pushed the Tow/Haul button on the gear shift and my instrument cluster went DEAD. Have checked the 3 fuses labeled instrument panel (F4,F35,F41) and they look OK.
2003 F250 6L diesel .....
I found one thread in FTE regarding replacing instrument cluster bulbs but the solution was to contact Circuit Board Medics. I have one dark area on the right side of the tach and another dark area on the left side of the speedo. Probably the same bulb that's out. Also, can attempt to replace the bulbs (assuming its a bulb and not a fiber optic of some sort) in the steering wheel volume and fan controls?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 f350 XLT SD v10 gas. The radio works, the heater works and the power windows work too. It's just the cluster. Lights work in the cluster it's the gauges are dead truck starts fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
View 4 RepliesI have an 01 f250 5.4l standard. #19 fuse keeps blowing. I hAve taken the gauge cluster out and do not see any wires melted or burned. It blows the fuse as soon as I turn the key over. I have read things saying the overdrive but that doesn't work with mine.
View 4 RepliesI have 2005 F250 6.0 XLT. I was driving the other night and all of a sudden my dash lights went out. I noticed I was being flashed from other drivers and discovered that my parking lights are not working. A preliminary check of fuses I discovered fuse #17 (15a mini) was blown. I installed and new one and upon turning my lights on, the fuse popped again. My headlights and turn signals work properly. It appears I have a wire shorted to ground somewhere on this circuit.
The truck is completely stock with the exception of an aftermarket radio which I installed two years ago.
I checked all the fuses with my test light and they are all correct (both sides of each fuse). I disconnected the gray connector and black connector in the driver side rear of the truck to isolate the issue. New fuse pops as soon as I turn lights on. I completely removed the tail lights, trailer 7 pin connector , completely removed both headlights. I did not disconnect the roof running lights or the mirror lights. I am completely stumped.
Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
View 7 Replies2004 5.4L F-250 ... it's a one owner truck I bought brand new in 2003 and only has 50,000 miles on it.
I have the 2V 5.4 engine no tuner or chip. 4x4 with 4" lift and 35's and I changed the rear to 4.88's. I love the truck but my problem is when I hit a large bump or drive too fast on a dirt road the fuse#23 that controls the PCM will blow. Consistently. I have to keep a box of 20 amp fuses handy. I have a 2 post lift in my shop and have scoured over every wire that is connected to the fuse. The EVAP solenoid, AC Clutch, Transmission solenoids and the O2 sensors. I only have 2 sensors I could find one on each side of the headers.
I couldn't find any rubbing wires or exposed wires. I am at a loss. It only happens when I hit a large bump. Could it be the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid?
My brother in law is a mechanic and he brought over the diagnostic computer and when it blew while hooked up he seemed to think it was the TCC solenoid because when it engages the chart shows it angling up but when it disengages it drops off straight like it should. My truck seems to run fine when the fuse isn't blown, but when it blows it goes into a limp mode with the tranny stuck in 3rd or 4th gear and I have to drive it home in 1st.
The fuel pump fuse keeps blowing intermittently. I would assume it's a wire grounding out somewhere but I can't seem to find one yet. I do have a faulty purge solenoid on the canister but I don't think that would cause this. The reset switch doesn't seem to be tripped either.
View 3 RepliesWhenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
View 4 RepliesSo, on my drive home from the pub tonight, my clusters went dead, then came back on, then died again. This behavior repeated for the 5 mile drive home. In addition, I believe the lights weren't working as well. The engine was still running, so I simply continued on home and parked for the night. The only thing I can think of might be the problem is the fact that I replaced the serpentine belt the day before yesterday. Is it possible that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and that is what my problem is?
View 14 Replies2003 f350 5.4L auto 4x4. The lights stopped working on the dash so now I can't see the speedo at night. All the dummy lights and gauges work. I checked the 3 fuses for the cluster from the owners manual. All 3 are good. Here's the thing, fuse 35, Checked for continuity, my meter read 192 not all zero's like it should have. I pulled the fuse and rechecked it, it was good.
I replaced it anyway. rechecked with fuse in, I get 192 again. pulled fuse again, checked both sides of socket for voltage and I'm getting 12.64 volts on both sides of the socket. Even though the fuse reads good, could this be the reason my cluster isn't lighting up? Is there a fuse on the back of the cluster?
I see a lot of threads on the cluster lights being out but its usually no tail lights or power windows or other things, and if there's a solution nobody is posting it. Mine is simply no lights on dash or I should say (No Back lighting). All my lights inside and outside work.
Horn isn't working found fuse blown. Replaced fuse and horn stays on. Swapped relays still stays on. With fuse out pressing left side of horn cover on steering wheel I can feel/hear relay click. Pressing right side not so much. What and where to check? Is there a way to disconnect the horn buttons on the steering wheel?
View 1 RepliesI am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
View 7 RepliesJust the other day I fired the truck up and turned the lights on and my headlights came on but my gauges didn't light up. I figured I probably had a blown fuse or something so I didn't bother checking it immediately and decided to drive home anyways and on the way home I got a phone call saying that my running lights weren't working either. Front or rear. Still have brake lights and turn signals but no running lights. I've checked all the fuses and none of them are blown and I'm going nuts trying to figure out what is wrong before I get a ticket. I'm tired of lightly holding the brake as I pass by cops at night. What could be causing this issue?
View 11 Replies05 6.0L xlt if that matters. Occasionally, I'll be driving and the speedometer will stick at a certain speed as I slow down. So yesterday it happened again on my way to work, but it was worse. I noticed that as I was driving, the needle was stuck at 0mph. Then a minute later as I was accelerating from a stop, It began working again. A few minutes later, as I was slowing down for a red light, it was stuck at 55mph. As I accelerate again, the needle moves as if 55mph is 0mph. Then it stuck at 85. And as I drive, the needle is just pegged well past 100mph, even though, I'm doing 65-70 max. I have Torque Pro, and all the info from the computer is correct, I can accurately measure my speed from there. Turning the truck off does not reset the needle or anything. It still remains stuck with the truck off, which makes me think it's something mechanical. Eventually, the needle usually lets go and begins working normally for a while.
In addition to the speedo issue, which has happened multiple times, The tachometer was working correctly, then all of a sudden was showing that the RPMs were about 800-1000 lower than normal. When idling, the needle was at zero. When at 65, the needle was around 1000-1100, when it normally reads about 1900. When I left work last night, the tach was fine, but the speedo was still stuck at 85.
It doesn't do it very often, it's just frustrating when it does. All the other gauges seem to function normally. The temp gauges still move, although, I know that means pretty much nothing. The boost gauge is good too.
I'm having a little problem with my F350. I've had it for about a month now and the cluster had no problems or whatsoever. Then, I drove it today and I noticed that the instrument cluster is not working at all. The lights work, but the gauges wouldn't move. When I turn the key before starting it the chime is beeping faster than it usually did before and it wouldn't shut off unless I close the door. It also only indicates the airbag and battery light. I checked all the fuses and they were good especially #15 or #16 can't remember it right now.
I don't know if its related, but this past saturday I was messing with the overhead instrument cluster for the gas mileage and all that. I soldered some of the relays back on and that was it. I started the truck after I did all that, but everything was still working. It's been bugging me all day today.
My 2014 Super Duty, the accessory delay relay is starting to acted up. When driving my instrument cluster and heater/AC will cut-out momentarily once in awhile. I guess Ford has known about this problem for years and hasn't done anything to fix this known problem in their Super Duties. My truck is almost out of warranty and I guess to fix the accessory delay relay is to replace the whole instrument cluster with a new one with the same defective part. Of course, the accessory delay relay will never acted up a the dealership because it's totally random. Plus, I don't trust the incompetent people who work at my local dealership to do a good job on tearing out my trucks interior and to get it back together like factory. I'm at a loss.
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