I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
View 5 RepliesThe truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
View 1 RepliesI am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
I have a 2003 f250 xlt with the 5.4l engine in it and lately my AC hasn't been standing up to the heat of the Midwest. When driving around town or on the highway my AC blows really cold but at idle you can tell a drop off in temp. Is this normal due to extreme heat or is there something I can do?
View 12 RepliesThe heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
View 2 RepliesI just recently purchased my 06 Ford F-250 it's got the 6.0 in it once I made a 6hr trip I've noticed once you warm it up and ride a little bit kill it let set for 30min or better and crank it up it blows white smoke for a min or two than on the way to work this morning my heater.
View 2 Replies2006 F250 with the dash controlled 4x4. I typically keep the front hubs locked on this truck. I have recently noticed that when shifting into 4x4 that the a/c or heat will switch from blowing out of the vents to blowing out of the defrosters. Any clues how to fix this?
View 1 RepliesRecently got a 2003 f 250 6.0 that has had a little work done on it. Absolutely love it with 1 exception. When I turn on the ac or heat It blows a 10 amp fuse that goes to the blower relay. It was occasionally now it's all the time.Blower ok, fan speed resistor ok. What or where to look.
View 8 RepliesI just bought an 09 f-250 lariat 6.4 . It has 100k on it. Was driving it AC was working fine. Next time I got in it went to turn the AC Auto on and nothing..the display works fine..lights work..looks like it is working, but nothing. No fan no anything.
Also, the check engine light will come on too. Then next day everything works fine again. Check engine light is out..everything looks perfect. Then this morning the same thing happened..check engine light and no AC.
My '04 f250 with a 6.8 V10 will periodically stop like you shut off the key. It will restart immediately, but you have to shut off the key first. Associated with this are all sorts of codes that appear to be spurious like something is glitching the computer. When it started we were moving out of state so I took it to my mechanic. They chased the codes and found nothing out of whack.
Codes cleared and the next time it happened new ones appeared. The last time it did it the transmission temp gauge quit working, but comes and goes when I drive it. I also have a problem with the key fob needing to be reprogrammed when it happens and the codes showing it is in learning mode like it had been reset or the battery disconnected I am pretty sure it is a wiring problem or maybe the ECU power relay is bouncing.
Ok here goes I dive a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 it's automatic 4x4. I dropped my kids off at school and was headed home turned a corner when the oil/temperature light flashed and the truck just quit. I tried restarting it and it just clicked like the battery dead. Had my better half come and jump it. Did not work it would only roll about a half Revolution and stop. So we towed it home where I put the battery on the charger. Now I can't even get it to roll over. And yes there is oil and it did not over heat.
View 14 Replies1999 5.4L F250 ... When I turn my ignition all my lights come on and I have power to dash and etc, battery is strong, but when I turn the key I get nothing even when I do the shifter trick for the slip we get on most fords nothing took ignition lock cylinder out and blasted it with electronic connection cleaner, when key is turn i loose all power to everything and there is no "click" or i gage from anything under the hood or the starter rally confused!
View 13 Replies2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
I have an 04 F250 6.0L and for the last month or so when I turn on my AC it makes a high screetching noise but only last for a little bit. Had a friend that works on cars on the side take a look at it one day and he said it was the AC cutch trying to engage. Does this sound like what it could be? Also if it is can it be changed out without having to remove the compressor? What all is involved in changing it out?
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 f250 with a 7.3. I'm new to diesel motors and new to super dutys so
Problem; had been driving for an hr and truck, which was running fine shut off like someone turned the fuel off. Check engine light came on, motor cranked but wouldn't start Back up. After an hr or so it fired back up and ran fine. This happened several times until now it will not start on it's own. I use a quick shot of starting fluid it fires right up and runs fine. Have run the truck for 1/2hr or so driving it and no issues except check engine light staying on. Shut it off and it will not start again without starting fluid, which I've only used 2x and sparingly. Generic code reader says no codes.
Is it vapor lock? Under valve cover plugs connection?
I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
View 4 Replies2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
View 2 Repliesmy 00 f250 has the air bag light on all the time. it does not flash it just stays solid. it was like this when i bought the truck @3 months ago. also the passenger air bag switch does not light up when you use it. is this causing my airbag light to stay on?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
View 9 RepliesSo a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?