Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - A/C Wouldn't Blow Cold Suddenly
May 16, 2015
My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
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My dad has a 2000 f250 4x4 with the 5.4. he said his blower would only blow on high. I told him it was his blower motor resistor. i thought it was under glove box. he took it apart and said no but there was a little box thing with wires he took off anyway and put back on. I then told him it was under hood below a/c lines. he replaced old one with a new one from auto zone and replaced the pigtail( plug too) fan works on high and a little bit on low very very little when u switch it to medium it stays the same. High works great. So we replaced the fan switch. (Radio was a bitch to remove) and it still does the same thing. I checked all fuses . when I check the plug at the resistor there is power to the center pin it stays on when u switch to low and medium but when u turn high on power goes out( on test meter) is there something I am missing? the blower blows on high even when u remove the plug from the resistor. Is that normal?.
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I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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I have an 06 F-250 Lariat with the crew cab. Even though the windows are tinted, the A/C struggles to keep the cab at 70 degrees on any given sunny day oer 80 degrees outside.
As long as you're driving on the interstate, it blows cold, but when slowing down (like a traffic jam or a stop sign) the air gets warmer and has a funny smell (like it's wet).
When I got the truck it had just gotten a new A/C compressor (160k miles). It stopped working last summer (180k miles) so I had the truck at the Ford dealer here and they replaced the A/C compressor, condenser, pressure regulator and dryer...basically all A/C components under the hood.
They tell me its working fine, but I find that hard to believe. No Ford I've ever had has had trouble keeping the cab ice cold even on the hottest days... How are your air conditioners working? Do they keep the cab cold? What I should look at?
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So two weeks ago I had a battery melt on me and I replaced it. Then last week I had the other battery almost blow up on me (it was a mess and smoking). I didnt use it all weekend. Today it started right up. I drove it like 500 feet and it just died. It is very weird. Both batteries are fully charged. Relay is good. When I put in the key it does nothing. No sound no radio no clicking. However, the gps still works (the online monitoring kind). I can fold in my out revie mirrors. And I can lock and unlock the doors. and the interior overhead lights come on. Nothing else has power at all. And I can't put it in neutral. Right now the truck is blocking my driveway so nothing can get in or our of here. I am wondering if it is some type of antitheft issue...
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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I have an 01 F250 with a v10. Driving through heavy snow in 2013 a plug blew out. Should I expect this to happen again if I do some heavy hauling and should I do something preemptive?
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I'm having an issue on my 2008 f250 power stroke. My telescoping mirrors are causing the fuse to blow instantly when I hit the button. Where to start looking for a short?
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Sunday I bought a 2001 f250/5.4 to replace my 91 f250. I didnt drive it yesterday, but this morning on my drive to work the heater was very weak, it seemed to blow warm for the most part, but was barely pushing air even on high. I flipped it over to A/C to see if it blew any harder and it did. Does the blower motor need replace? if so why does the AC blow harder than the heater?
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I had a 2014 F-250 I bought new. Absolutely loved the truck. Things got tight so I decided to sell it yesterday. I'm now looking at a 2005 F-250 with 113k miles. It's got a lift, 37" tires, DPF delete, pretty sure the EGR delete but not sure exactly what to look for under the hood. A ton of LED light bars, SCT tuner, I was told its bulletproofed by a dealer, and it's a king ranch. It runs great. I plan on having a diesel mechanic look it over but here are my concerns. It does have a slight bit of blow by coming from dipstick. Very little. Also a slight oil leak that looks like it's coming from the bell housing so maybe rear seal?
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My 1999 f250 superduty with the 5.4 was sitting in front of my house, and started all by itseft, did not have keys in it either and the doors were locked. I ran out thinking someone was stealing it but nope,? As far as I know it does not have a remote start either,i have owned it for the last two years and it has never happened before. It is a lariant edition also .
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Cab with climate control. The last three years when the temp exceeds about 85 degrees outside it acts up. It will switch from the AC vents to defrost and blow normal air through, not ac cold. Then it will switch back, when doing so I can hear the internal deflector shudder. It will do this every few minutes. It is extremely annoying. All other times of the year it works fine. My local dealer had the truck last year, but could not find anything wrong. I have used the search and also Googled and while I find similar problems nothing exactly the same.
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Another question on this, my 2008 F250 with auto climate has decided to only blow heat on the passenger side...do you agree that it is an actuator? If so how hard or easy is this to fix and what is the best fix.
While here, on another note, I noticed a rubber line hanging right over my front diff it looks like it could go onto a nipple coming off the diff? Is this a vacuum line for the diff that I need to put back?
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I was driving and all of a sudden the radio died, battery light came on, Power windows and interior lights died, gauges died speedometer went all the way up to 100. The Head lights, turn signals and heater work. When I got home I opened the hood and the battery was boiling.
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My 'new' 2004 F250 ExtCab SB w/5.4L sometimes 'drops' my keyless entry (key fob) for no apparent reason. Also, when I attempt to do the 'eight turns' of the ignition to get into program mode, it doesn't always work the first time (or second, or third, etc). Is this a common problem?
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I recently purchased a 2000 f250 with a 7.3. I'm new to diesel motors and new to super dutys so
Problem; had been driving for an hr and truck, which was running fine shut off like someone turned the fuel off. Check engine light came on, motor cranked but wouldn't start Back up. After an hr or so it fired back up and ran fine. This happened several times until now it will not start on it's own. I use a quick shot of starting fluid it fires right up and runs fine. Have run the truck for 1/2hr or so driving it and no issues except check engine light staying on. Shut it off and it will not start again without starting fluid, which I've only used 2x and sparingly. Generic code reader says no codes.
Is it vapor lock? Under valve cover plugs connection?
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