Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 5.4 - No Compression On Cylinders
Mar 6, 2016
I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
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I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
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I have a 2003 f250 5.4 with a couple of bad valves and low compression and a dead miss because of it... I just bought what appears to be a 2001 5.4 from an f150... I am worried now this engine wont work and cannot find anything online that can tell me yes or no....
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I just bought a 99 F250 Super Duty with the V10. When I bought it, I knew it had 2 misfiring cylinders (4 and 10) because it was throwing P0304 and P0310 (only 2 codes), but wasn't concerned as I've had to take care of my wife's Escape with it's misfiring cylinders. I replaced the 2 coils and replaced the plugs with Motorcraft plugs from O'Reilly's, cleared the codes and she ran fine for a couple of days. Now I'm getting an intermittent misfire, it's only occasionally throwing a pending code of P0300 which is "Multiple Random Misfire".
I'm fairly certain it's an issue on the electrical side because if it were an issue with the injector or injectors it would be constant regardless of RPM... right? As it is now, it basically does it between 55-65 while in overdrive trying to pull a hill or slightly accelerate. Once it's shifted out and the RPMs go up to 2k+ it runs like a champ... and it kills my fuel economy. The way it's behaving is just like when a coil is bad, but it's saying it's not identifying a specific cylinder (saying it's multiple) and it doesn't always do it (about 60% of the time).
I checked the MAF and it's very clean (looks almost new), checked the vacuum lines (those I found without a manual) and couldn't find any leaks and when I changed the plugs all the plug wells were dry.
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I have a 2009 f250 with 5.4l 3v. have had the truck only about 6 months. it started missing about a month after I got it. I replaced all 8 cops and all 8 sp. The truck ran excellent until 11/29, then I got a cel and the truck started running really bad. Found 3 misfiring cylinders. Changed all 3 cops again and that did nothing. Pulled the injectors and found 2 of them were clogged, replaced those also. Still no change was told by someone that the ecm/cpu may need to be reset, did that also. Still no change. There are no codes present but still has the multiple misfires.
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I have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
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I have no compression on #4 cylinder. Is there any way to check the cylinder for damage. So I can just replace that piston if it's good?
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I bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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2006 F53 (motorhome) with 6.8L V10. Rcently noticed rough idle and midrange (under load) mis fire. Had codes on 2 coils. Replaced coils and put new spark plugs in. Did not improve and now detecting mild back fire.
Just completed compression test. 1=207psi, 2=200, 3=210, 4=190, 5=197, 6=200, 7=200, 8=170, 9=202, 10=208.
put some oil in #8 and retested at 225!
Other observations on #8. Engine has ticking noise chased with stethoscope to #8. THE new plug with 200miles, insulator going to electrode tip and everything inside combustion chamber is black. All 9 other plugs still look new out of box.
With the ticking noise I was suspecting valve but the compression test with oil jumped way up.
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my 00 f250 has the air bag light on all the time. it does not flash it just stays solid. it was like this when i bought the truck @3 months ago. also the passenger air bag switch does not light up when you use it. is this causing my airbag light to stay on?
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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I have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
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So a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
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I have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
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Does it need a diesel fuel injector?
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2006 F53 (motorhome) with 6.8L V10. Rcently noticed rough idle and midrange (under load) mis fire. Had codes on 2 coils. Replaced coils and put new spark plugs in. Did not improve and now detecting mild back fire.
Just completed compression test. 1=207psi, 2=200, 3=210, 4=190, 5=197, 6=200, 7=200, 8=170, 9=202, 10=208.
put some oil in #8 and retested at 225!
Other observations on #8. Engine has ticking noise chased with stethoscope to #8. THE new plug with 200miles, insulator going to electrode tip and everything inside combustion chamber is black. All 9 other plugs still look new out of box.
With the ticking noise I was suspecting valve but the compression test with oil jumped way up.
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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My 2000 F-250 V10 won't start has a new alternator and new starter all it does is Click when I turn the key?
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I have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
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