I plan to be buying a 2000 F250 V10 in a couple of hours.
I had my boss run by and take a picture of the door tag so I could determine the axle code. What he sent me was this:
Other than giving me the knowledge of how bad of a photographer he is, it doesn't tell me much else. The axle code area is blank, what gives? Am I just going to have to crawl under the truck when I get there after work?
Tried converting the 10 lug to 8x6.5 and didn't work. so now i found a 2000 F450SD 8x225mm monotube front axle but just got my hands on a '99 F350 4.10 DRW axle 8x170mm....can I bolt the 8x170 hubs (spacers as its a dually front axle) up front? not sure if the bolt pattern on the rotor will work...
I was thinking adapters up front as i can widen the front track abit if i had to, but dont want to go 170mm to 225 adapters out back, as i think its too much weight for those... I will have a front 90 F-superduty 10 lug set up....
I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
View 12 RepliesI have a strange thing going on with my hubs i think. I have a 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 that I just purchased. Lettering on hubs were worn out as far as labeled locked or unlocked so I tried to turn the axel to see what position they were in. Drivers side spun freely but passenger side did not. Both hubs were counter clockwise and turning it to lock didn't change a thing.
Figured it was a bad hub so I jacked the front drivers side up. Spun tire with both hubs unlocked and axle didn't spin. Locked hub on drivers side and axle spun. Indicating the passenger side was unlocked. Then I locked passenger side and wheel would not turn. Ok. That seems right.
Jacked up passenger side front tire with drivers side on ground and axle spins no matter if its locked or unlocked. So does this indicate the hub is good and I should look at something else or could it still be the hub. Axle spins all the time and I don't want to wear anything out.
The issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 F450, 7.3, 4x4, dually, VIN 1FDXF47F0YEA44380, with 30k miles, That needs a new rear axle - hub retainer threads on axle housing are stripped (nut welded on by previous owner). This axle is a case ID F81A-4001-BK, 4.88 ratio, 11.25 ring gear, with a 41.5" spring center. I have heard that the '99-'02 axles had issues until Ford switched over to the later square housed axles in 2002 or 2003 (Dana 110, I think). Is it possible to adapt these later (2002- 2004) axles onto a 2000 F450? And if so, what would be involved?
View 3 RepliesI was getting codes on 3,6,8 cylinders. I found a broken wire at the coil on 3 and the bolt was broken that secures the coil. No plugs were blown out. I replaced coils and plugs on those cylinders and rewired at #3. I also checked and cleaned the injectors. The 6 and 8 codes are gone but still getting a code on #3.The coils were out of wrecking yard and I suppose it could be a faulty wiring job. Could I take a well-insulated screwdriver and check for spark from the coil at the spring? The plug was heavily deposited as it had not been firing. Could deposits be causing other issues with raw fuel having been dumped in the cylinder?
View 10 RepliesOD light flashes on my 2000 F450 7.3 but still runs and drives shifts fine. If i turn o/d off before i get going then it won't throw the code and start flashing at all. I am going to check the harness again to see if there are any bad wires. If not is it usually a bad solenoid pack i can just swap it out and fix the problem? I have to replace the pan soon so when I do if I need to replace the pack I'd like to do it then.
View 4 RepliesI have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
View 3 RepliesJust ordered a 2014 SD 250 FX4 CC SB 6.2L Lariat. I ordered it w/ the 3.73 axle ratio, but have two weeks to change it if I choose. Was wondering the pros and cons of both axle ratios. Going to be hauling a 16 foot tandem axle enclosed trailer with 7 dozen goose decoys and a four wheeler and other gear through corn fields 100 days a year. I'm fairly hard on trucks and this is my first ford I've owned myself, but have driven a lot of them at work. Basically need opinions on best axle ratio to get in and out of muddy, or snow covered fields.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2015 F250, cc 4X4 PSD. It has 22,000 miles on it. I notice a small quarter sized drop of oil after it is parked by the right side front wheel. It is coming from behind the dust cover and universal joint where the axle goes into the tube. I dont know how long it has been leaking. My issue is I am about 800 miles from home on a camping trip, have to go back to work Monday, and lcoal dealer here can't take it in till next week. So, if the hubs are not locked and the truck is in 2 wheel drive, the gears shouldn't be turning right? I assume it is ok to drive home. I didn't want to pull the plug and check the fluid because if any runs out and leaves a stain on the cover, I don't want ford trying to deny warranty claiming I messed with it first.
View 5 RepliesCheck out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
View 2 RepliesI have a slight problem and don't know how serious it is. I own a 2003 F350 with a lift kit. After my drive shaft shattered last September. due to a U-Joint a clicking noise started up in the front axle area after we locked the hubs so we could crawl it down the road out of traffic.
What would be the likely causes and how much would a typical repair/replace cost?
I am not up on the exact operation of the hub lock/unlock on superdutys but when following them, I can see the front axles still turning with the wheel. So even with them "disengaged" they still turn with the wheels?
If that is the way they are designed to do, why? Seems like efficiency could be gained by having them actually disengaged when not needed. And save wear on the inner housing seals.
It seems that every time I put the truck into 4 low, the rear axle locks up. When turning, one tire skips no difference which way I turn. When doing this, I do not have the front hubs locked. Also noticed that when turning in 2wd one tire will spin w/o other locking up. I have spun the tire enough for the L/S to catch, but hasn't. I have heard that the locker was not available until years later. Is this true?
View 11 RepliesI noticed the other day after my truck was parked on a bit of a angle there was diff oil from the passenger side on the ground. reading a bit on here i learned the axle seals are way in the front housing close to the front diff. and yesterday driving a heavy load around my front brake driver side got stuck on a bit and over heated and was smoking, couldn't even touch the rim it was so hot. anyway about this axle seal i got the hub off right now but cant seem to pull out the axle assembly through the knuckle but i see i have to pry and most likely wreck that seal. Looking for a link of piuctures or how to replace the axle seals in the housing.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1999 F-250 super duty 7.3 4x4 and the rear drivers side axle seal is leaking. My question is how do I remove the axle shaft? my last truck a f150 had c clips in the diff that released the axle shaft but I did not see those on this truck. How to remove the axle shaft?
View 8 RepliesLove my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
It's the Right Front Axle Shaft on my 2006 F250 where it goes into the Hub/Bearing assembly.
Seems way to loose to me but after I removed the Lock-Out, I discovered the Axle Shaft is held in by a Snap-Ring not a Nut (WTF) so how do I get this tightened up
Also it's my understanding (I didn't remove) between the Axle & Steering Knuckle there's a rubber O-Ring. Could all this play be from that O-Ring being wasted Although that doesn't seem likely to me, Iam worried what's wrong