Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - Auto Door Locks Don't Work
Jun 28, 2014
I just bought a 2000 super duty F250 Triton V10 and the auto door locks don't work. They try to work as in tug an eighth of an inch but won't successfully engage or disengage. Thought it might just be the switch inside the door handle but they don't work on the passenger side etc either.
Also two days after I bought it I found out first hand that these motors spit out spark plugs and i had to replace the plug and coil. I was told that there is a tool that I can tap out the heads with and then put inserts in so i no longer have this problem. Where do i get that tool and how much are they? Is it true that pulling the plugs can strip out the heads because i bought all new plugs for the truck and was then told that it will strip out the heads.
How many quarts of oil does this engine hold and should i use a certain type of oil? It has high miles but purrrr'ss like a kitten.
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2000 crew cab powerstroke 4x4... It's a XLT, six inch lift, weld wheels, BFG all terrain (50%). 277,000. One owner. Clean Carfax. All service done by purchase dealer. Mostly stock other than that. Dealer just replaced AC compressor and charged system. Interior is good, except for driver's edge seat. Good cleaning and ok.
The (my?) Truck.Downside. Power door locks make noise but don't work, remote mirror switch intermittent, stereo broken. During my test drive (alone) it drove straight, stopped straight and hard. 4x4 engaged and worked well. No noise in system. Good acceleration. No rattles or noises. Doesn't drip anything on the ground. Cruise and all accessories work.
I'm supposed to go in Monday. My girl is afraid of the mileage. But it seems well maintained for 17 years old. Is 10k an acceptable price? They wanted 11,900. Anything I should be looking for?
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All 4 crew cab door locks are not working...I see and hear them moving a little but not enough to get the job done.....Ive read a good fix on this forum but have a few questions...... 1. Could the problem be in the switch or wires ... 2. If I try to fix---do I need to fix all doors or is one door somehow messing the other up.
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2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
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My door locks stopped working new battery in fob, I can hear them trying to work. 2000 f250 crew cab .....
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2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
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I have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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2006 F-350 diesel 4x4 ... Is there someway to disable the automatic door locks?
Truck is used on a construction site and every time someone moves it and then I need something out of it doors are locked. I hate having to try 3 doors every time until I remember to go to drivers door.
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We are putting a truck back together after converting a single cab to crew cab and struck a problem. Every time you hit the brake pedal the door locks continually try to lock themselves. Any clues as to the problem or what to test to find out for sure?
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I took apart, cleaned and lubed my hubs. My question is: how does the vacuum make the gears work?
Does the vacuum force (suck) the nylon assembly to push the outer gear towards the center of the truck, sliding on the inner gear thus engaging the teeth so that the axle shaft turns the hub?
When the vacuum is gone, does spring pressure pushes the outer gear away from the center of the truck thus disengaging the teeth from the inner gear and allowing the hub to free wheel?
Is this vacuum source constant during 4wd and not present during 2wd or do I not understand how the system works? I have read about a “vacuum pulse” that locks the hubs and another pulse that unlocks the hubs and this confuses me.
BTW, I like the way the Auto lock works. I had a set of Warn Auto Lock hubs on my 78 CJ. They worked on the principle of a set of roller bearings that would lock (pinch) when there was torque coming from the drive shaft. There was no vacuum involved at all. The down side was that when you coasted, the front hubs would be in two wheel drive and so you would not get the engine braking on all 4 wheels. These ESOF seem to have solved this problem.
Oh, I should probably tell you that I just purchased my 04 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 with the 6.0 diesel, just had it a week. It has been 18 years since I owned a 4x4. Before this I owned an 87 F250 2wd with the 6.9 diesel.
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I have a 2000 F250 and the blower motor stopped working, the a/c clutch locks in but the blower will not run. I back tracked and I have no power at the motor or the resistors, or the speed switch. There has to be a relay that is turned on by the a/c selector to power the blower circuit. I guess my question is need a schematic of the a/c circuits? Or the location of the relay?
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My power door locks just started acting up. The driver's side switch will not do anything. The passenger's side switch will lock both doors, but it will not unlock them. Is this a switch issue or the actuator? I am assuming the issue is on the drivers side only and am leaning towards the drivers side switch. With that said, I read about a lot of issues with actuators on these truck which makes me think it may be the actuator? Would the doors still lock if the actuator was toast? If it would, why doesn't the driver's side switch work? I tried replacing the driver's side actuator but it made no difference. I also swapped the driver's and passenger's switches and it does the same thing. The passenger locks only and the driver does nothing.
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I am switching over to 08 door panels so in my attempt to rewire the door locks I crossed a bunch of wire that I shouldn't have because I had the wrong pin out and I shorted out the circuit. I rebuilt my 08 switches with the 04 parts so now I can reuse my old wiring connectors. I just soldered the old connectors back on and replaced the 30 amp fuse for the power locks. for some reason only the lock function on the passenger side works and it locks both doors but I have no unlock function on the passenger side or anything on the drivers side. Are there any other fuses that I could have missed? I don't have long to do anything invasive but as far as fuses I have all day to replace them. Basically I shorted stuff then I put everything back to the way it was stock and now my locks no worky
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2003 F250 extended cab .. I've only had the truck a couple of weeks... While I was check out some lighting issues I noticed that the power door locks are operating backwards (unlock is locked and locked is unlocked) is the a simple explanation or has someone wired them reversed???? If you wired the driver's door backward would that effect the passenger door??
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I bought a 2002 f250 Crewcab bout 6 months ago. A couple of months back I noticed that after driving it and turning off ignition and opening door my radio would stay on and doors would not respond to key fob or switch on doors. Eventually it would reset and radio would turn off and key fob would work. It also makes the locking sound when press on brake. It doesn't happen all the time though and that's only issue. Truck is in awesome shape only 106,000 on it, belonged to an old man who only used it to tow camper twice a year. I've read a few posts that have similar problems and have heard could be gem or vsm.
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In my attempt to remove the auto locking hub on my 2000 F-350 4x4, I found that it would not slide out. I removed the retaing clip and the hub should of be able to come out with a couple wiggles, it seems to have seized inside the hub. I tapped it with a rubber mallet on all sides. Any thoughts as to other alternative methods of removing the hub locker ?
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I have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
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I have 2006 Elantra GLS. It has power door locks. But when I start driving the auto door lock does not work. Is there a way to check if this model has auto door lock or not. or How to enable auto door locking.
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