Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - A/C Vents Smell Moldy - Location Of Drain Tube?
Jul 25, 2013
My a/c vents smells musty/moldy when A/C is turned on, searched the FTE site and everyone says to check the A/C drain tube to make sure it is not clogged, I have searched all over top and bottom with a flashlight for the drain tube and swear there isn't one. I think it should be on the bottom of the condenser box but just do not see it. Where it is located? The vent smell is Awful!
2000 F350 Super Cab 7.3 Diesel
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The 5amp fuse 15, (Stop lite switch, GEM, PCM, 4WABS, Brake shift Interlock, Cluster 7 PCM-Keep Alive memory), is drawing 2.7 amps with key off.
The battery has gone dead two times overnight. The truck will start and run. I don't know where to proceed from this point to isolate the problem.
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I have a 2011 F350 diesel 6.7l. I have had this smell outside the front of the vehicle for months and so I took it finally to a dealer to solve the leak problem. They spent hours on it and eventually found a leak in a tube at the rear of the engine under the intake manifold and supposedly solved my problem. That was 2 weeks ago and I have driven about 300km.(180 miles) but the smell is still noticeable. How long should I wait before it goes away or should I return it to the dealer for further work?
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I am upgrading an F150 w/ pass-through console to an F250 w/ jump seats. Have not gone to see the truck in person and am wondering where the rear air vents are located?
Reason being I have two very large dogs that own the back seat. It's basically a large dog bed. The console vents are fantastic, keeps them cool back there. I can't figure out where the vents are in a jump-seat configuration.
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2005 F350 Lariat crew cab a few weeks back.
My question.... I noticed a strong ammonia/super glue like smell floating around in the cab about the 3rd time i drove the pickup. Since then, it seems to do it intermittently. My first assumption was it was coming through the vents. I have done a couple experiments, and I don't believe this is the case. My wife and I were driving yesterday and she thought she noticed the smell again. while I was driving she started checking all the vents, and nothing. But when she leaned clear down near the speaker hole in the door, she said she could really smell it.
What could be causing this? I'm assuming if it was the AC it would be coming though the vents. And at this time, I don't think it is.
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When starting up my 2011 F-250 Gas, I have a burning smell coming from my vents for about a minute then it goes away. It smells like new electronics. My A/C seems extra cold as well. We just got back from a 3800 mile vacation. Its been going on now for about 3 weeks and never changes...
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So just about every trip that's over 20 minutes I'll get a smell, seems like it's coming thru the vents and it smells like burning wires or like you turned on your heat in your house for the first time of the year.... Is this normal??
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I have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
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The #8 fuse under the hood was blowing on my '00 F-250 every time I turned on the healights meaning I would lose power to my park lights. The brown wire coming from the back of the headlight switch showed a dead short to ground that I traced to somewhere between the switch and the firewall.
Anyway, I got tired of trying to pinpoint the ground fault, so I cut the brown wires at the back of the switch and under the hood at the top bolt-on electrical plug and replaced the bad section with a new wire. It works fine now with the only exception being I do not get the park light flash when I hit the remote lock button the second time. I do still get the horn chirp.
My Haynes manual indicates there should be a relay box with a Park Lamp relay, Driver Unlock relay, All Lock Relay, and All Unlock relay. The park light relay looks like it sends the blip of power to the park light circuit. Where this relay box is? I'd like to splice into the brown wir coming out of it to restore the light flash when I lock the truck since sometimes it's too noisy to hear the horn.
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I have a 2013 and after it sits for a day especially when it's warm the AC vents put out a moldy smell when starting. I've heard all the ideas of Turing off AC before shouting down engine but that shouldn't required for a Lexus of all cars. The dealer ran a refresh we thru the systems that worked for a few days but that was it. I've never had this problem with my 2004 RX. I also replaced the cabin filter with a charcoal based one. Seems a $45,000 vehicle shouldn't have this type of problem
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After 1 year and 9000 miles, I have the dreaded moldy smell through the AC vents. Thought this would be covered by warranty but Toyota says "NO" and will cost me$120. That is unacceptable to have to pay $120/year for a problem that should NOT happen. I have had too many cars in the past to count and have never had this problem. It has to be a design issue (poor drainage??) 2012 PIP.
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With my windows up I occasionally get a slight whiff or smell of gasoline with the engine running. Doesn't matter if A/C is on or off. I crawled all under the truck and can't see any fuel dripping. (2005 5.4)
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I enjoy your show and newspaper column. Here's my situation. I have a 2008 Grand Prix with a stinky problem. There's a terrible musty, moldy smell that comes out of my vents (any vents, i.e. dashboard, floor, defrost) after I shut off my air conditioning. When just the fresh air from outside is coming through the vents, everything is just fine. When I turn on my air conditioning, everything is just fine. When I turn off my air conditioning is when the funky smell starts.
Mechanic number one cleaned out the drain hole, sprayed anti-mold spray and foam through the air intake vents with the recirculation switch on and the windows rolled up. But the mold is still there. Mechanic number two shared with me that the only way to get the mold out is to disassemble part of the A/C unit, physically clean out and disinfect the unit and then add some other part that drain or dry the unit so moisture never sits in there and starts the molding process. Is that the best way to deal with this problem?
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Every time I get in and start up my GX it omits a moldy / musty smell out of the vents, it stinks! It goes away in a matter of seconds but it seems at every start up I get that smell again, it's kind of embarrassing.
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I bought a new 2013 ES 300h. It only has 7K miles on it. When I first start it up for the day there is a moldy smell coming out of the vents for a few minutes. I've not taken it through any deep water.
Does it just need some new vent filters? What filters would be involved?
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The dipstick tube on my 5.4 snap and ive ordered a new one. it looks like it may not be to hard to replace.
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2010 F250, what size tube do I need to fit on the brake bleeder screw? The tubes I have are all too big and the size marks are no longer legible.
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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I changed the shift tube in my Excursion today. I'm trying to put the key switch back in. It will go in and rotate fairly hard. I can not get the key to release. When I hook the battery back up, everything functions as it should but it won't start, the key won't release and it still turns hard. The dash lights come on and such when the key is turned to run. I tried a different key with the same results. Everything looks good.
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OK, so I have a 01 f350sd and i went to check my oil and the dipstick tube itself is so rusted it snapped in half so I took it to the dealer which I knew was going to be over priced labor but still checked the tube itself is 20 dollars but labor is upwards of 300-500... My engine is the 5.4 triton.
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I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
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