Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - A/C Clutch Kicking On And Off?
Jan 13, 2014
I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
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So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
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I have a 2000 F250 and the blower motor stopped working, the a/c clutch locks in but the blower will not run. I back tracked and I have no power at the motor or the resistors, or the speed switch. There has to be a relay that is turned on by the a/c selector to power the blower circuit. I guess my question is need a schematic of the a/c circuits? Or the location of the relay?
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How many gear shifts I should have on my 6.0 2004 super duty, Ive counted 5 but it seems not to be in overdrive, I'm running a little over 2000 rpms at 65 mph?
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This is the first winter for my truck, and the first time I've driven a truck in the winter. I struggled to get out of my street this morning, through 15" of unplowed heavy snow. As the traction control seems to engage, and even sometimes when it doesn't, the truck literally shakes very violently. I even had to lock the rear diff to get out this morning, but that didn't seem to make the shaking any worse. What causes the shaking? Is it just my truck? I've driven Land Rovers with full-time 4x4 for years, never any shaking even when they are spinning like crazy and traction control is operating. One thing I did learn that seemed to be a question of several on this forum...traction control does operate on the front wheels when 4x4 is engaged, in addition to the rears.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission.
I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced.
I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.
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I've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
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Bought a 2014 SD 4x4 in December of 2013 and this is the second time the big girl has been to the shop with A/C problems. First time it was the evaporator about three or four months ago. During the last few weeks of the summer I began to smell something strange (like band-aids) when the A/C was on and it lingered until the next re-entry. ALso, began to hear a slight hissing noise when the compressor was kicking in and out. They replaced the evaporator, smell remained as they said it was the refrigerant I was smelling. About two or three weeks ago the smell got slightly "larger", and last weekend she would not cool. This is the fourth time shes been to the shop with other problems such as the My Touch system..............
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I was driving to work this morning and my hydraulic clutch linkage messed up on the 1999 f-250 super duty 7.3 with zf 6 speed. It acted like any clutch master cylinder when they go out, the pedal went to the floor and the clutch would not release, but it also became very hard to shove in the clutch pedal, so I speed shifted it without the clutch and made it to work. So I figured no big deal I will swap out the clutch master and slave cylinder complete assembly in the parking lot, except I had to get a ride 30 miles to an auto parts store that had it in stock. I changed out the complete assembly and same problem with the new one, extremely hard clutch pedal, so I did not dare to push it anymore and risk damaging the new cylinders, and left the truck at work. I am thinking broken throw out bearing jammed into the clutch, or dislocated throw out arm causing the problem. The clutch disc, pressure plate and single mass flywheel were replaced by the previous owner 3 years and 15,000 miles ago.
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Ok AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
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I've got a 2000 F350 PSD XLT. When I turn on the AC it runs and cools fine. However, the first time the clutch cycles off or you select another position then back to an AC position the clutch will not reengage. The high and low pressure check good. How to trouble shoot this.
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2003 V10.. Can I replace the AC compressor clutch with out pulling the compressor out?
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I was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
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I Have a 1999 f250 7.3 diesel with the zf5 manual transmission and to shift gears I need to push the clutch all the way to the floor. Could this possibly be the slave and master cylinder or is it the clutch?
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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I have verified that my AC clutch does disengage (and re-engage), but it seems like the AC is on all the time. Normally you don't notice this in the Northwest because I always overpower it with the heater, but now that it's above 70 on occasion, in vent and full cold, it still blows 20 degrees colder or more than outside air temp.
Is it possible that the clutch disengages but that the bearings are bad and its somehow still turning the compressor? Would a mechanic be able to diagnose this or would I just have to throw money at buying a new compressor? My first indication should have been that I get about 15-16mpg when I used to get 18+ occasionally.
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I have a 06 f360 PSD 6 speed. On a road trip and the clutch pedal is getting very close to the floor. No Slippage but the longer I leave the pedal pressed the worse it gets. Are there any good descriptions how the clutch in this truck works?? Slave cyl??
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I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
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I pulled the trans to replace the clutch and now I cannot get the trans to line back up! I am using a trans jack then two floor jacks with a 4x4 across them to support the transfer case. I am about four inches from the block and either side is either 2 inches high or low. The truck is 1999 f250 7.3 4wd.
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2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
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