Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 2WD - Truck Has Lot Of Slop And Wanders Down The Road
Jan 23, 2017
2000 Super Duty 2wd. My truck has a lot of slop and wanders down the road. My rotors are also warped and after they get warm they shake like crazy. So I plan on new rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, dust caps and rear rotors, calipers and pads for the rear. I will also be doing factory wheels and new tires and shocks all the way around.
My questions is to rebuild the front suspension and do it to last what all will I need? I see some moog kits but I do not think they are complete for what I need. I only have 126,000 miles with a sound motor and tranny so I feel she is worth it. I know how to work on the truck but the suspension is my weak spot. At 126,000 miles I feel it is a good investment
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It's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
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I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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I have a 2003 super duty crew cab 4x4 with V-10 auto w/167k. Awsome truck. I recently have noticed alot of slop in the shift lever on the column. Everything is tight on the tranny end. It appears to be under the dash. Is there a part that may be replacible? And if so... is it fairly simple to repair?
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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My truck seems like it wanders when driving down the road. Could it be the fact that I haven't gotten used to the electric power steering? The truck is a 2013 F150 screw 6.5 bed 4x4 5.0....
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My 07 has developed a steering gear issue.....it suddenly developed about a quarter to a half turn of slop......mechanic checked the front end and found everything to be tight and right so......I ordered a Redhead rebuilt box and will replace it upon it's arrival. My question is How often do these boxes go bad and if and when they do is it at all safe to drive the vehicle with that much play? I have to drive it about 15 miles to get to my mechanic ( far too cold for me to do it at home) and I also plow a couple of yards commercially and will need to use it there in the event of a snow storm.
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My truck wanders all over the road especially on the highway. The stealership said everything on the front end looked good and tight. I just recently had the front end aligned by an alignment shop, but the wandering still occurs. Is my last resort to try and tighten/adjust the steering box? I have owned and driven bigger lifted trucks before and they were no where near as bad. I realize this truck isn't meant to drive like a sports car, but it should at least drive in a straight line. I am at a loss and it is becoming very frustrating to drive most times.
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2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
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I have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
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We bought a 2000 Ex V10 4x4 less than a year ago to pull my 2 horse trailer when I wanted to ride (so I didn't have to borrow my husbands truck). This is the 2nd Ex we have owned but the first was years ago and that one was nearly new. This one has 176,000 miles on it and it had significant sway to it. So we have had the steering box rebuilt, new shocks, all new sway bushings replaced and it drives a lot better.
It USE to be just my towing vehicle, but now it's my daily driver (had a BMW X5) and I've noticed that it steers fairly straight on a nice straight smooth highway but when I take the back roads to work (a lot of curves) it wanders. What else should I do to it? And would an air lift in the rear work the same? We had one in our other Ex and it made pulling a trailer better.
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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So I went to start the truck this morning around 8:00 and it was 7 degrees outside, when the truck started the oil light came on and oil gauge was on low? So I turned it off right away. few hours later I tried it again and still nothing I thought maybe the oil was frozen. After I started the truck the oil was higher on the dipstick so I am assuming the oil pump is functional. What could be causing this? Could it be the the gauge is not working? The truck is a 2000 F-350 V-8 5.4 gas. I'm hoping it is something simple I am suppose to work this afternoon
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We just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
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New issue I've discovered , when stopping , the RPM's drop down to 500, truck acts like it wants to stall , then goes up to 750 RPM's . Then it's fine . Doesn't hesitate when accelerating . Idles slightly rough after start up , about 30 seconds . I've checked the air filter , cleaned the IAC and MAF. Fuel filter is only a year old . What I should check next ?
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2000 Excursion 4x4 v10 auto. Pulling the boat last weekend up the driveway from the lake and the truck started smoking under the hood at the top of the drive. Jump out and saw a fire under the pass floorboard. Go the hose and put it out in 30 sec. Thought i blew a trans line and it sprayed on the cat. Took it to the shop and he said lines are good it's not leaking. He said it is possible that the trans over heated and built up pressure and blew it out past the front seal.? What happened or how to prevent it from happening again?
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I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
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My truck is a 2000 7.3 doesn't smoke on start up but once it gets to temperature it does. I'm not going through any antifreeze, just oil and it's coming out the exhaust. The truck still runs great starts right up every morning without being plugged in. Any opinions?
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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