Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1998 - Dash Air Conditioning Inoperative / Shorted Out
Jun 29, 2014
I have a 1998 C class RV with the dash Air Conditioning that is shorted out, it keeps on blowing the 15A fuse when turned on to Norm A/C or Max A/C or Mix or Defrost settings on dash only.
For troubleshooting I have disconnected the engine Air Conditioning Compressor plug to verify that it isn't the fault.
I've removed & replaced the switch that controls the dash a/c to defrost settings and worked for a minute, but now continues to blow the fuse as before. I'm not ready to buy another switch for now.
Is there a common item that may contribute to fail or common wiring that I should look at. I purchased the full electrical and service manuals but haven't dived into the ohm checks of the wiring, wire by wire yet. Tight wiring areas under the dash.
Also the fan speed controller works when in VENT or FLR modes, so I don't believe that is the problem, also temperature vacuum controls work.
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Was working on a friends 06 F-250 and was trying to wire in some plow headlights. I must have shorted something out and the Passenger side low beam doesn't work. The high beam works and the drivers side high and low work. The fuse under the dash is good. From looking around, is it possible that the multi function switch on the column got shorted out? Any way I can test? Any other things I can check?
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2010 F-250. the tire pressure warning light is on and the cruise is not working. Verified all TPMS sensors are working and sending signal with the reprogramming tool. using my scan tool, I got several U codes saying there is no communication with the instrument panel control module. I have cleared the codes, they did not return immediately and the problem persists.
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I have verified that my AC clutch does disengage (and re-engage), but it seems like the AC is on all the time. Normally you don't notice this in the Northwest because I always overpower it with the heater, but now that it's above 70 on occasion, in vent and full cold, it still blows 20 degrees colder or more than outside air temp.
Is it possible that the clutch disengages but that the bearings are bad and its somehow still turning the compressor? Would a mechanic be able to diagnose this or would I just have to throw money at buying a new compressor? My first indication should have been that I get about 15-16mpg when I used to get 18+ occasionally.
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So I got in my truck yesterday and i started it like normal and turned air on. The air will not blow out of the vents but only the defrost vents. I have checked all vacuum lines and good, my 4x4 engages and no issue with it locking in. I am Puzzled on what it could be?
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Trying to perform master reset on sync because, from the title, phone button inoperative, No Aux In, and attempting to connect the ipod, you get "connection error see dealer".
The Owner's manual indicates Fuse 40 protects Sync, GPS and Sirius, so I figure that is the one. When you pull 40 you still have gps and Sirius, so I figure Sync must still have power also. So, what fuse powers the sync module?
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My 1999 F 250 5.4 liter. I know I have a vacuum leak because whenever I accelerate the air conditioning coming from the vents switches to the defroster. So my question is how do I go about finding the leak? My hubs in the front are manual so I know I don't have lines going up there. I do have some mechanical capabilities I've changed water pumps alternators brakes etc. But never anything with vacuum lines or a/c.
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My dash cam is supposed to turn on and start recording when the truck is started and stop recording and turn off with the ignition. I have plugged into the accessory plug in the dash. It won't turn off and on. Is there another plug I should be using or do I need to wire it in?
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I'm thinking of doing a dash swap on my 99 super duty to the 2008 super duty dash, steering wheel, etc. I know the od in my truck is mechanical and in the new one its electronical is it possible to swap without having to redue the whole electrical system and computer? Is the steering wheel going to line up and the ducting? How should i approach the wiring?
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1998 F-250 LD 4x4 463,000 km.
My truck begins to flash the OD light after driving about 10 km. So I borrowed a friend's scan tool and got a P0503, and P1500. So having been pointed to the vehicle speed sensor, I connected TORQUE and watched closely vehicle speed. Driving at a steady 80 kph it will jump rapidly up and down, from about 72-92, while the gauge in the instrument cluster reads a calm and steady 80.
Which sensor and wiring do I need to inspect? Rear diff or on the back of transfer case? Oh, and the ABS light is NOT on.
Sent from Nexus 4. IB AutoGroup
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1999 ford superduty keep blowing the 30 amp fuse under the dash, want let it start, why this is happening and the cause of it.
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I need to identify these random plugs under my dash. I think they might be for some sort of alarm or remote start unit and they seem to be tapped into the ignition wires. Suspiciously like remote start plug wires but I can't figure out what unit they would be for?
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I seem to be having a run of bad luck with my dash vents. 3 of the 4 vents in the dash have broken and I would like to replace them.
Are these vents made aftermarket? If so who? The dealer wants fifty some odd dollars each.
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So I bought this truck a year ago and the guy had his fog lights re wired to another switch under the dash and had a brake controller wired in (that's what I think it's called) the fog lights worked for a month then just stopped working there's a rats nest of wires under the hood for the fog lights too. The brake controller never worked.
My main question is what are the wires that are hanging down under my dash that look like someone snipped ....there's a random green wire attached to one and just hanging
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I was driving the other day and noticed my dash lights and park lights were not on. I do have headlights but nothing else. I checked wiring and everything looked fine. I didn't smell any burning wires of any sort. From what I've looked up, I am thinking its my headlight switch..
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I have recently developed a vacuum leak on my 2002 F-350 V-10 under the passenger side of the dash. It is only audible when I am accelerating moderately to heavily or when the truck downshifts going up a hill. None of the vehicles HVAC or ESOF functions seem to be affected by this leak from what I can tell, but it's rather annoying to listen to this loud sucking noise every time I hit the gas moderately hard such as climbing a hill or merging onto the freeway. I don't know how I could search for this leak since it only happens when I'm driving and accelerating and not at a stop. What might be going on or where I should begin my search?
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