Is it possible to put a 7.3 ltr from a 1997 van in my 2004 f250.....6.0 has cost me my fair share and would like to swap, 7.3 was giving to me because body is smashed i know engine is good , runs and drives
View 3 RepliesMy dad has a 2006 F-250 5.4 3v that spun a rod bearing at 107,383 miles. He's never been thrilled with the performance of it (told him he should have gotten the 6.0 when he bought the truck new, but why listen to a 15 yr old ). We've been throwing around a couple different ideas for engine swaps since the 5.4 is dead. We scored a 5.4 2V Lightning engine, but after trying to figure out transmission controllers or if we'd be able to tune the stock PCM for the 2v, we've put the project on hold.
Recently, I've been trying to convince him to do a diesel swap over the L-motor. I have a friend selling a cheap 99 7.3 with trans, PCM, harness, intercooler, piping and other misc stuff. Would that harness generally be plug and play with the body of the 06? Would it be more worthwhile to try to find a 6.0 from 05-07 and swap everything over?
I've also been considering a Cummins swap, although I haven't gone much past looking at complete engines on eBay and Craigslist. Would this be the better route, and just get a standalone controller for the 5R110?
So I'm looking for other's opinions. Should we go 7.3, 6.0 or Cummins? Should we stick with gas over diesel? Try to make the Lightning motor work? Or just go back with a stock 5.4 3V? I should say, he won't sell the truck for whatever reason, so he's not worried about resale or anything. We're in Michigan, so we don't have to worry about emissions. And we're fairly mechanically inclined, so I'm not too worried about doing the swaps, however my knowledge on diesels is limited.
Love my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
I just went from 3.73 to 4.30 gears on my 2007 f250 6.0. It has the standard Sterling 10.5 rear and Dana 60 front. My mechanic friend who did the swap said the ABS light came on during his test drive but the truck drove fine. I was of the understanding that the truck would not need to be recalibrated for proper speedometer and transmission function, but what about the ABS?
View 7 RepliesAfter a 7 year love affair with our 2005 6.0L Excursion, we bought another 6.0L today - a 2006 F250 Crew Cab. It came with front buckets/console, and the used car lot (all diesel trucks...) was nice enough to let us swap the seats out with another 2006 F250 Crew Cab on the lot that had the front captains' chairs with the center seat.
Their upholstery guy did the work with the captains' chairs, but for liability reasons they wouldn't bolt the jumpseat in, since the truck we bought didn't have the studs in place. So, they sent it home with us and we're faced with putting it in. No problem, right?
Well... we found the place for the bolts to go, and thought we were home free. BUT... (see photo) - what have we done wrong?? The first photo (driver's side bolt of center seat) is fine, but the passenger side bolt hole is too close to where the front passenger seat needs to bolt in.
I was wondering if this is possible, I have a 2008 F-250 6.4L and a 2003 F-350 both crewcab longbox, the 08' F250 has a ruined engine & great cab/box, my 03' F-350 is fine except it has substantial body damage - Is it possible with some welding & magic to get a 2008 cab onto a 2003 6.0L F-350?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 6.0. Its an XLT Trim but i want the features of a Lariat. would a Dash Swap Work or is it pointless?
View 2 RepliesSo I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 f250 4x4 with a 5.4 motor the automatic trans is shot. I can get a replacement trans from 2000 f250 4x4 with the v10 motor. I tried my best to research it bell housing supposed to be the same so it should fit. But I'm not sure what they changed in those years internally or electronically.
View 2 RepliesI have a ford f250 1997 with a 5. 4 triton engine in I bought a 02. 5.4. Out if a ford expedition he said it would fit but my mechanic is not sure . Would the engine out if the 02 fit in the 1997 and what would need to be done.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2009 F350 that the engine is now locked up. Anyhow my question is can a 2001 Triton V10 interchange with what was a 2009 Triton V10 both 6.8L...
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2004 f250 4x4 crew cab that is driving me nuts. It runs great, but sporadically it will just quit running. Tach drops to zero. Engine is still turning, because it usually restarts by itself as long as I am moving over about 45. If not I can pull over, put it in park and restart it. Sometimes it sets codes, never the same ones and usually not something even related to the problem (transfer case solenoid for example). Most times it doesn't set any codes. I have changed the plugs and coil packs on all cylinders. Right now it is showing the P1000 code so I am suspicious of the pcm or the wiring to it. I think the tach is the only thing dropping out on the instruments and all the instruments are powered through the pcm.
View 3 RepliesI putting a bit newer engine in my truck. from what I know there have been few changes in the middle of 1999. Do I need to replace the computers too or are they the same. what about the wiring harness.
My truck : 1999 (11/1998 production date) 7.3, zf6 trans, 1 alternator, 315k
Donor truck : 2001 7.3, zf6, dual alternator, 110k
I have a 2004 ford f250 5.4 and ithe makes a Humming noise only at idle. I have checked the fan clutch. it seems to be good and does not spin freely. I was thinking maybe idle air control valve but the truck idles like normal and does not stall. the sound does go away when squeezing the air hose doing today the IAC but comes back as soon as you let off. can it still be the idle air control valve if idles fine and doesn't stall?
View 5 RepliesIts it true, that the fuel pump relay is hid in the fuse and relay box, and non serviceable ?
View 6 RepliesI can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
View 14 RepliesTo make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
Did a tune up on 97 F250 5.8: plugs, wires, rotor button, cap. Truck ran after that, ran all next day and then shut off after sitting for about 30 minutes, had it towed home, put on new coil. Nothing. Found I have no spark. Have not replaced the distributor, have checked fuses that seem to make sense...all good. Self employed, very busy, so troubleshooting is a slow process right now, having to drive my F550 7.3, would really like my gas burner back.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 f-250 heavy duty with the 7.3 I have been having problems with very aggressive and hard shifting. While it is acting up the overdrive light on the shifter blinks. This problem goes away and it might be good for a month or so, But it always comes back. I have had it to a professional trans tech, He replaced a part on the side of the tranny. I thought it was fixed, But now it is acting up again.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f250 HD with the 460 and auto trans lifted on 38s the motor keeps over heating Im not shear what the problem is I checked the water and thermostat water pump is good when I bout it there is a trace of stop leak in the radiator not shear if that can do any thing.
View 1 RepliesMy 1997 250hd has the 5.8 we have rep[laced the cap,rotor,iac,tps,plugs and wires about to do the fuel filter and drop one of the tanks and change out the pump,also has a new fuel regulator. What could be making it choke out under acceleration...
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