Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1997 - Gets Hot Under Acceleration?
May 16, 2016
Okay here we go. 97 F250 HD with 460 and e4od.160,000 miles, MSD 8.5 Super Conductors, Mallory 6A, KNN air filter, Transmission Flushed new filter including inline and Mercon V. New Hedman Headers and Y-pipe into Cat delete stock exhaust. New front fuel pump and filter. New 38 gallon conversion rear tank and fuel pump. Air pump delete. New IAC valve. Timing set to stock. oil just changed Valvoline high mileage full synthetic, KNN oil filter , Lucas Full Synthetic oil Stabilizer, Injectors cleaned on truck with Berrymans, Entire cooling system has been thoroughly flushed. New 4 core radiator and 180 degree high-flow thermostat, new belts, new water pump, new hoses, new 13lb rad cap.
So here's the problem. It gets hot under acceleration. If I do a 0 - 80 mile per hour run the temperature gauge will go from a steady "O" reading to the high side of "R" (of course I am referring to the word displayed "NORMAL").. if I am Towing 0 - 65 mile per hour run will put the Gage to a solid "A" Reading then drop quickly once the throttle is lifted. It can idle all day long with the AC on and it will not come above the"O". I would normally think that this has caused buy a stuck thermostat however the thermostat is new and a stuck thermostat while running easy, would most likely cause the lowest temperature to be around the letter "N" on the gauge. I have no condensation coming out of the exhaust whatsoever except what is normally associated with first start up on a full exhaust system. I have no additional pressure or bubbling in the radiator. I have no foreign fluid in the radiator either from oil or transmission fluid being introduced. And I have no coolant contaminants in the oil at all which would normally indicate a head gasket or intake issues. This is definitely a concern because Towing an RV in hilly conditions will allow the gauge to climb rapidly. The bigger the hill the longer and harder the acceleration the higher the temperature will climb. I am stumped.
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My 1997 250hd has the 5.8 we have rep[laced the cap,rotor,iac,tps,plugs and wires about to do the fuel filter and drop one of the tanks and change out the pump,also has a new fuel regulator. What could be making it choke out under acceleration...
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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My Son drives a 2012 6.7, and just recently it started overheating bu only under acceleration? It runs cool while idling, and once you reach the desired speed, it cools back down, but under acceleration it overheats? We've checked the obvious (coolant etc...), but can't figure out what it would do this only under acceleration?
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On the way home today upon medium acceleration I heard a pop kinda like a backfire ......now black smoke pours out on acceleration.no much in line of power either. Hoping I haven't screwed the motor ...
6.0 ltr turbo diesel 2004 f-350 super duty crew cab 4x4 ....
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My '05 5.4 SD CCLB is running badly. 95k mikes. Plugs done 6 months ago. Acceleration is very sluggish. Sometimes uphill from a stop is almost impossible.
No CEL codes other than an intermittent coolant temp gauge that spikes but resets as soon as I shut down and restart.
When it is bogging the exhaust note changes - almost like there is a blockage. It is almost a booming sound. I would like to test to see if the cat is clogged. I have a vacuum gauge but need to find a vacuum source after the throttle body to do so. If I pull out the O2 sensors ( to allow the exhaust pressure to exit ) would the truck run badly because the O2 sensors were not functioning?
If it turns out that the converter is bad. Can I just eliminate the cats? I do not need emissions testing here in PA because the truck is so heavy. But I don't know if eliminating the cats will cause other problems.
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I drive a 2000 F250 XL Super Cab LB 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke. i drive like a grandpa. No rompin on the accelerator or anything. I was leaving the house got up to about 35mph and the truck lost acceleration. Motor still running fine. I coasted onto a side road. Put it in park, killed it, started it again and same thing. Will not go into drive at all. However will go into reverse just fine and accelerate in reverse. Desperately wanting my favorite means of transportation back!
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2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
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2003 6.0 is acting crazy again. Has new ICP, IPR, oil discharge tube, and hpop. It cranks right up but one time you crank it and all the gauges work correctly, especially the fuel gauge. The engine will idle perfect but when you accelerate it has a dead miss. May crank like that 2 to 4 times. Then you crank it and it runs like crap, and the gauges won't work, the fuel gauge goes past E and the light comes on. As long as that happens it runs terrible, but when the gauges are working it idles great but has a miss under acceleration! It was running fine, then just went nuts!
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2007 F-350 4X4 King Ranch... I have the 6.0 diesel. I am on the road to Houston, Tilden and San Antonio TX, and I am noticing a whistle on acceleration. I can change the tone by how hard I push down on the accelerator. I thought it was a radio issue and turned the radio off and got no change. Turned the a/c off, no change. Down hill or coasting, nothing.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. My truck has developed a "clunk" for lack of a better term when accelerating from a dead stop. It is not a shudder as it only happens once within a few seconds of depressing the accelerator and then goes away until the next time I stop moving.
It feels like either something in the drivetrain is not engaging right away, or something is releasing, like a stuck caliper or something. From the way it feels and what I've read so far about the TC/Trans, I'm assuming it is something worn in the drive-shaft/rear diff.
But it needs brakes badly (already have all new rotors & pads ready to install) so maybe a caliper is sticking when depressed and then popping loose under initial acceleration? I think this is unlikely but possible.
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I have recently developed a vacuum leak on my 2002 F-350 V-10 under the passenger side of the dash. It is only audible when I am accelerating moderately to heavily or when the truck downshifts going up a hill. None of the vehicles HVAC or ESOF functions seem to be affected by this leak from what I can tell, but it's rather annoying to listen to this loud sucking noise every time I hit the gas moderately hard such as climbing a hill or merging onto the freeway. I don't know how I could search for this leak since it only happens when I'm driving and accelerating and not at a stop. What might be going on or where I should begin my search?
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I just purchased a new 2015 F250 SC 8ft bed 4X4 2 weeks ago. I am experiencing a vibration on soft acceleration (I feel it through the floor), by that I mean when there is power going through the driveway, not coasting. I plan on making an appointment with the dealer. New F250 SC LB 4x4 truck.
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I started to notice my battery light comes on during a hard acceleration. So I have been keeping track of it. When the rpm's hit 3200 and above the light comes on bright but never at any other time. I put a volt meter on it and I have 13.4 volts at an idle, as the engine revs up the voltage climes to 13.9 then when it hits the 3200 mark voltage drops right off to 12.4. It seems like a regulator issue to me. The parts store says my 5.4 has an external regulator is that so or is it built right into the alternator?
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I had a buzzing noise on acceleration so today I cut all the heat shields off the exhaust system and also bent the bottom of the transmission inspection plate toward the front of the motor. It cured the buzzing noise but when I started the truck up there was a new rattle kind of sound, so I looked and found my y pipe is cracked where the passenger side pipe comes down off the manifold and connects to the pipe that goes to the cat converter.
I don't want to get a whole new y pipe could I order the spd Y pipe and that should work out right? it should be cheaper than a whole new y pipe aswell. I filled up the crack (it cracked 360) with weld but it was tissue paper so I would like to fix it before winter. I also still need to do my passenger side manifold studs and weld a new muffler because I found the rear half of mine is rotted off lol so I will probably do this all at one time.
I'm probably just going to pull everything manifolds and back off the truck, I have a feeling theres a bunch of rust sitting in front of the cat or muffler making the new rattling noise. Also in all my years of wrenching I have never figured out an easy way to get the exhaust off those rubber hangers, I always try to spray wd40 in there to get them to slide easy but always end up tearing them while trying to get them off.
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I have a 06 6.0 with 340000 miles on it believe it or not still pulls great. The problem is my clutch fan keeps roaring when I press the gas it's extremely loud all my gauges are fine so the truck isn't overheating? Also not a bad fan clutch I wasted 300 bucks on that and it's still doing the same thing.
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2015 F-350 diesel purchased in Sept 2014. When moving slowly such as turning a corner and I have to let up on the accelerator momentarily, when I press down again there is nothing for an unsettling period of time, maybe 2 seconds, as though the engine died, but it didn't and it always comes back. Is there a firmware programming update for this?
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I have a 2011 F250 Lariat, 6.2L V8. The past couple months i have noticed truck jerking/lunging during acceleration in the mornings usually between leaving the house and getting on the highway. Over the last 2 weeks the problem has progressed and seems to last longer. I have tried fuel injector cleaner with no success. This morning was the worst so far and after all this time i finally saw the maintenance "wrench" pop up on the on dash.
This was good news to me hoping that a local shop could read the code. However, when i dropped off my daughter and started back up the "wrench" went away. After warming up the problem seems to go away. This morning was so severe i lost speed and felt like the engine was going to stall.
I feel like this is related to the fuel system (injectors/pump/filter) but also haven't changed the spark plugs yet. My truck has 72,000 miles and otherwise is in good shape. How I should move forward?
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Since it has gotten cool outside my truck is back to not having any power or acceleration when cold. About 10 miles and it is fine. Also I got a code 2286 injection pressure high. Are these related? I cleared the code and it has not returned. The truck is completely stock.
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I have installed a delete kit and a H&S chip on my 2009 F350 6.4 powerstroke , I installed the mild tune and run in street level. When I accelerate fast from 20 to 70 it puts out a little black smoke but as soon as I let off to maintain speed it starts blue smoke really thick and runs rough , it will eventually stop after 5 or so miles but if I accelerate it will puff blue each time for a bit longer. What could be the issue?
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My 2006 F350 is giving me grey hairs. I'm trying to figure out what's going on with it. I have been getting an occasional (more often than not) grinding noise from what seems to be the front of my truck. It will do it from a stop, under light, moderate, or heavy acceleration. Doesn't matter. If I let off the throttle momentarily it will stop until it shifts and will grind again through all shift points it seems.
Logic says it's got to be the wheel bearings or locking hubs. I recently did both on both sides to no relief. Because this is an 06 it had a different hub set up then the previous years which I've read a lot of info about (needle bearings). It doesn't make a lick of difference if hubs are locked or on auto. If in 4x4 (ESOF) or 2wd.
As mentioned I replaced both wheel bearings with FORD parts and both locking hubs From FORD as well. (Small fortune). Axle u joints seemed tight. Greased me up but no play.
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