Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1997 F350 - Engine Stalls Going Down The Road With No Warning
Jan 7, 2014
I have a 1997 f-350 crew cab 4x4 w/ off road package and 7.5 fuel muncher power package. My engine stalls going down the road w/ no warning. Sometimes it will start back up immediately, and other times not until i cycle the ignition 6 times or so.it seems to be getting worse as time goes by. Since it started i replaced tps, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I also replaced fuel tank and pump and filter about 1.5 years ago. Some other issues to clear up, but concerned w/ current problem.
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I recently purchased this 2003 F350 DRW with the 7.3L, automatic trans. Truck has 140k on it. Three times now while the truck has been idling, the engine just died. The first time was a couple of weeks ago when I was pulling out of the driveway. Then again yesterday twice, once while just sitting at a stop sign. Each time it has started right up and ran fine.What is going on here?
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My truck is a 2002 F350 CC dually longbox 4x4 7.3 auto that I bought last fall. On the street it is very well behaved although I suspect it is not giving me as much power as it should be, as compared to my previous 95 powerstroke.
Off road, slow crawling, the throttle is very jerky. Under acceleration it is smooth, but if I try holding a low throttle position, the rpm rises and falls. I am certain this is a bad TPS, and may also be contributing to my perceived low power on the street.
I have googled my brains out and it seems there is a cheap replacement TPS for earlier trucks but the 2002 has the 5 wire combined TPS and IVS, which reportedly is not replaceable without replacing the whole pedal assembly. To complicate matters I have the adjustable pedal assembly
So are there any options other than buying a complete pedal assembly from ford? Can I save some bux and retrofit a non-adjustable pedal assembly? I saw a youtube video where a guy put a newer 6.0 pedal assembly in but he was short on specifics about what exactly he gained doing this.
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2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
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I am installing a set on a '12 F350 for a customer. I already had to go buy an additional hardware in order to get the back bumper on correctly...and now I'm looking at the front bumper and I swear I don't have the parts I need to install it. It appears to be missing some brackets. There were NO instructions with them (apparently a chronic problem with Road Armor) and I can't possibly imagine it bolting to the flimsy brackets that hold the factory bumper (fairing would be a better word for it) in place.
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I have a 2005 king ranch and have a clunk coming from the back over bumps/heaves in the road. It doesn't happen all the time but often enough. I just replaced the shocks, that worked a little but didn't solve the problem. Now thinking rear sway bar end links? Anything I can check/inspect?
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I put new ball joints on a few months ago and now the truck is starting the death wobbles felling even around slight bends in the road.I jacked it up and the passenger side tire will move 1" side to side scarey.Not sure what I need to replace.
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Have a 06 f350 just rebuilt the engine. Started up ran it down the road a couple miles and lost low side oil pressure. Got back to the house and will not start again so put a gauge on and it only has 3 lbs after cranking for 10-15 sec. Pulled the balancer and lpop cover and front cover had some deeper scoring then before. No noticeable stuff in the pan or filter. Changed out the front cover and lpop. Still has only about 5 psi.
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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We have an F350 at work with a 7.3, I believe it is a 2000. The truck is secondhand to us, although we have had it for a number of years at this point. It has a banks powerpak and transcommand system installed by the previous owner (I got the paperwork from my boss but I haven't sorted through it yet to tell you anymore than that), as well as a pac break exhaust break and a transflow auxillary fuel system.
These were also installed by the previous owner. We do not use the exhaust break due to it getting stuck on/closed (probably an easy fix...it used to work properly we just haven't had a chance to look at it) and the fuel tank was removed when we put a different box on the truck, and was not reinstalled. I can't say whether or not it was removed properly, or whether shortcuts were taken.
The issue:
About a year ago, the truck stalled without warning. No coughing or hiccuping, just suddenly the motor stopped. It restarted instantly, and off we went. This happened again occasionally, but not frequently. Over the last month or so this started happening much more regularly, and we also experienced sudden losses in power for several seconds where the engine seems to return to idle, but does not stall.
We haven't been able to determine any pattern to these issues to try and narrow down the cause.
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2006 350 6.0, on startup the high and low 4x4 and brake lights come on the dash with a constant tone for a minute or two then stop.
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Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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I have a 1997 F350 460 7.5 automatic two wheel drive. I am having a sudden issue with the coolant being instantly over pressurized. Even when the engine is cold and I start it for a minute and then shut it off, the coolant comes under great pressure. I noticed this starting when coolant was being forced out of the overflow reservoir. The truck does not overheat.
I changed thermostat and radiator cap. This is my moving truck and we are about to go almost 2,000 miles with the truck full of our "stuff" (this has a 15' enclosed box on it to, like an old Uhaul). Anything I can do from my own driveway. I know it may be the head gasket but praying it is not. Lastly, do I dare take off with it doing this and just bring a lot of coolant with me???
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I have an early 1997 F350 XL 2 wheel drive with a knapheide 8ft utility bed. Both front tires lean outward at the top.. I have read posts about the top leaning in but this one is leaning out. The front is set up with the twin I beams and just has leaf springs no coils. Couple of guys have said its normal but i would think not because when you jack up the front end they straighten out. I have tried jacking it up and grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 and tried rocking it to see where the movement is but its pretty solid, it takes the weight of the truck to make them lean. What it could be? Indiana truck, i bought it with over 100k miles so its possible it has had a plow at one time but if so all the evidence of that has been removed.
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2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
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1999 Ford Triton V-10 engine, after changing Oxygen sensors, all vacuum hoses and Mass airflow sensor,(also replaced another sensor but can't think of the name of it right now) now I don't get the codes but engine will start and idle but if I give the engine gas it bogs down and stalls. Vehicle sat in my driveway for 3 months, I got it started and drove it once about 30 miles filled up my gas tank thinking gas could be stale, but now it will not run.
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I am looking at a 1997 F350 XLT 4x4 and it has a 5.8L engine. I have an 84 F250 with a 5.0L and it just doesn't have enough power when pulling a trailer. I am wondering if the 5.8L is enough for an F350 of if I should look for a 7.5L?
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I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
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I have a 2013 f-350 with 58,000 miles. I'm a general contractor and drove my truck to a very nice home with decorative concrete. After I left the customers house they called my office to say I left oil stains on their driveway. I looked under the hood and noticed motor oil leaking on the front left side of the engine. I told the customer we will take care of the stain. I've never had a diesel motor leak this soon on me.
My mechanic told me to go to a Ford dealer so I did. The dealer told me that this is not covered under the warranty as it is a oil pump/brake vacuum. THE MOTOR IS LEAKING OIL. I told the dealer that the motor is leaking oil and I have a warranty that I signed up for. He told me that Ford considers this issue the same thing as an alternator.
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I was recently involved in a fender bender. As I backed out of a parking space, I struck another vehicle. When I immediately attempted to pull back into the parking space to check things out, the engine in the F350 bus surged to the point that it crashed into one of the safety poles in the parking lot despite the fact that I had both feet on the brake pedal. The vehicle is 8 years old and has 25K miles (not used frequently) but never had this issue before. Could the crash have something to do with the vehicle's computer and the subsequent surge?
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