Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1997 F350 - Coolant Being Instantly Over Pressurized
Jun 10, 2015
I have a 1997 F350 460 7.5 automatic two wheel drive. I am having a sudden issue with the coolant being instantly over pressurized. Even when the engine is cold and I start it for a minute and then shut it off, the coolant comes under great pressure. I noticed this starting when coolant was being forced out of the overflow reservoir. The truck does not overheat.
I changed thermostat and radiator cap. This is my moving truck and we are about to go almost 2,000 miles with the truck full of our "stuff" (this has a 15' enclosed box on it to, like an old Uhaul). Anything I can do from my own driveway. I know it may be the head gasket but praying it is not. Lastly, do I dare take off with it doing this and just bring a lot of coolant with me???
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03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
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My grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
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I'm a total beginner and am slowly nursing an '87 F350 7.5L back to running condition as a plow/farm truck. It regularly loses coolant, even on very short trips around the farm and I figured that radiator needed to be replaced. Today I was hooking a snow plow up and had it running for about 15 minutes when light grey smoke started to come out of the vents in the cab. Looking at the engine, I noticed a lot of coolant leaking out from below the heater housing. The coolant was dripping out of what looks like a protruding bit of pipe a where a hose should be attached. What am I looking at here?
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I recently did the water pump and hoses due to seeping around the water pump gasket. While there, I decided to replace the overflow reservoir as well - old and slightly discolored. I'm now on my 3rd overflow reservoir - they are all leaking at the front seam. I don't think I have a blown headgasket or injector issues - no signs of white smoke ever, and there isn't any oil or fuel in the coolant. I've also tried a new cap, but it's starting to leak before I build any noticeable pressure - I can back off on the cap and don't get much pressure released. So - just bad luck on parts from Ford? All were OEM from different Ford dealers.
Pics - hard to see on here but go to Imgur to zoom in. [URL] ...
1999 F350 7.3 CCLB Dually. Stock except for DP Tuner and Gauges.
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OK, I got the message, ran the tests, all is well. Now how do I clear the message? It's a 2013 F350 6.7PSD.
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2006 F350 6.0l dually. Head gasket replaced, racing studs installed, other assoc components replaced few years ago. Y pipes replaced two years ago.
3 weeks ago had oil change and service. Last week engine started making roaring sound. Hubby raised hoid and discovered coolant fill tank cap off ( sitting on battery). Shop owner came to our home and filled with coolant, about 3 gal in. We drive from Houston to Lubbock then Dallas this week. Added about another gal coolant.
Hubby thought he heard an air sound yesterday, but was slight. Today after driving for about an hour at hwy speed, after we slowed for an exit, when throttle depressed again, air noise very loud and turbo weak. Limping home.
Have had some of the flexible hoses replaced in the last year or so as well.
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I just recently bought my 2002 F250 Lariat with the 5.4 and 76 thousand miles. I love this truck but I've started to notice a few things with it. When i go to start the truck it sometimes starts but then instantly shuts off. When i try it again it takes a long time to crank over. This has happened in cold and warm weather. What the problem could be and things i could do to prevent it?
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I have a question on the 2012 F-350 with 6.7. I have found after mid to long drives when I shut the truck down I can smell coolant when walking around the front of the engine. Seems more so from the driver side but i have yet to see any leaks or wet spots on the ground. I had the water pump and lower rad hose replaced last year under warranty and though it might have been residue but after a year and still smelling it it has to be something else. I only have 30,000km's left under warranty so if I need something replaced it should be soon
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Having an issue w/ my 00 550. When I lock in the hubs there is instantly a noise, More of a squealing then a grinding. The truck goes in and out of 4x4 no problem and the noise is there locked in 4x4 and not locked in, as long as the hubs are locked in. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the 4x4 driveshaft but there is no noticeable play in the u-joints or the u-joints in the front axle. I did notice when I spin the 4x4 shaft by hand the passenger side joint spins slower then the driver, not sure if that's normal or could be the problem.
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I have a 1997 f-350 crew cab 4x4 w/ off road package and 7.5 fuel muncher power package. My engine stalls going down the road w/ no warning. Sometimes it will start back up immediately, and other times not until i cycle the ignition 6 times or so.it seems to be getting worse as time goes by. Since it started i replaced tps, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I also replaced fuel tank and pump and filter about 1.5 years ago. Some other issues to clear up, but concerned w/ current problem.
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I have an early 1997 F350 XL 2 wheel drive with a knapheide 8ft utility bed. Both front tires lean outward at the top.. I have read posts about the top leaning in but this one is leaning out. The front is set up with the twin I beams and just has leaf springs no coils. Couple of guys have said its normal but i would think not because when you jack up the front end they straighten out. I have tried jacking it up and grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 and tried rocking it to see where the movement is but its pretty solid, it takes the weight of the truck to make them lean. What it could be? Indiana truck, i bought it with over 100k miles so its possible it has had a plow at one time but if so all the evidence of that has been removed.
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I have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
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I went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
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Our new 2016 F350 King Ranch is suffering from a battery drain. It goes dead after it's been left for over 24 hours. This has left us stranded several times.
The truck has been at the dealership for weeks and there is still no resolution. We really like the truck and bought it because we believed it would be dependable. This is extremely frustrating.
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I have a 99 F350 with a 7.3 diesel that will not shift into park.
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I have a buddies truck as a loaner while my f250 is in the shop. He doesn't and has never had a key fob. Just to clarify he bought it used years ago and its never been his DD so he never bothered getting a key fob. I picked one up w intention of programming it for him but i cant get it to work. Wondering if his truck doesn't have rke??
Ive tried the turn on and off 5 times and also 8 times w no luck. Its a 1999' F350 crew cab Lariat, all the bells and whistles so i would think it should have rke.
It is however a manual transmission V10. Wondering if it being a manual is messing me up having that little button one has to push to turn the key all the way back. Is there a different procedure for manual or maybe just no rke?
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I have 99 f350 single rear wheels 4x4 . I went to start it this morning and it would crank but not start b/c it was cold. I plugged it in and still wouldn't start then it wouldn't even crank. I checked all fuses swapped relays and I have new batteries. The last thing I did was hit on the starter a few times and it started. So I went and bought a new not remand a new starter and put it on and now it won't crank!? I get 12v at the little wire on the selenoid on the fender. So now what?
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Long story short, I need to replace the box on my 2008 F350. Do the boxes from '14-'15 models line up? I know the fuel door is different, but is the rest the same?
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I have a 2003 Ford F-350 6.0 it's srw lariat edition it has Manual hubs but electronic 4x4 switch I have changed all fuses and relays but still the light won't come on I've tried manually locking the hubs and still nothing....
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