Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1997 F250 - Tune Up / Ran All Day / Cut Off / No Spark
Jul 25, 2015
Did a tune up on 97 F250 5.8: plugs, wires, rotor button, cap. Truck ran after that, ran all next day and then shut off after sitting for about 30 minutes, had it towed home, put on new coil. Nothing. Found I have no spark. Have not replaced the distributor, have checked fuses that seem to make sense...all good. Self employed, very busy, so troubleshooting is a slow process right now, having to drive my F550 7.3, would really like my gas burner back.
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The spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
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I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
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I have a 2006 F250 5.4L. I was getting a noticeable misfire after not driving the truck for a while. Mode 6 revealed that cylinder #8 was misfiring.
I took off the coil/boot and there was coolant on the tip of the boot and some at the bottom of the spark plug well.
I cleaned everything up and put everything back together and that took care of that problem when I started the car. I also stuck a wad of paper towel by the intake manifold nearest spark plug number 8 and tightened the manifold bolts down a little. Some of them were not as tight as others.
I went back today and started the vehicle and it has the same problem again!
I took a look at the paper towel and it was totally dry! There is no coolant around the top of the spark plug well - only in the bottom of it. Where is this coolant even coming from? There are no coolant lines near cylinder #8. Is this a head gasket leak?
I have taken a look at the head gasket and that doesn't seem possible since the head gasket does not seal around the spark plug well at all as far as I can tell.
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I have a 1997 f-250 heavy duty with the 7.3 I have been having problems with very aggressive and hard shifting. While it is acting up the overdrive light on the shifter blinks. This problem goes away and it might be good for a month or so, But it always comes back. I have had it to a professional trans tech, He replaced a part on the side of the tranny. I thought it was fixed, But now it is acting up again.
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I have a 1997 ford f250 HD with the 460 and auto trans lifted on 38s the motor keeps over heating Im not shear what the problem is I checked the water and thermostat water pump is good when I bout it there is a trace of stop leak in the radiator not shear if that can do any thing.
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Is it possible to put a 7.3 ltr from a 1997 van in my 2004 f250.....6.0 has cost me my fair share and would like to swap, 7.3 was giving to me because body is smashed i know engine is good , runs and drives
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I have a ford f250 1997 with a 5. 4 triton engine in I bought a 02. 5.4. Out if a ford expedition he said it would fit but my mechanic is not sure . Would the engine out if the 02 fit in the 1997 and what would need to be done.
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My 1997 250hd has the 5.8 we have rep[laced the cap,rotor,iac,tps,plugs and wires about to do the fuel filter and drop one of the tanks and change out the pump,also has a new fuel regulator. What could be making it choke out under acceleration...
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I have recently bought a 1997 F250 XL and i have a steering problem. It has a lift with 35" tires on it. Its not extreme but fairly mild. But everytime i turn slowly in either forward or reverse the edges of my tire seem to roll under itself or something. It seems like the outside of my tire or inside will catch the road when i make tight turns in and out of parking spots. I can see the outside edge of my tires becoming worn and starting to take small chunks out of it. And when i turn the truck will bog down and i will have to give it some gas just to get it to move. I cannot figure out the problem. I have engage and disengaged the 4 wheel drive numerous times and it still does this.
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I was driving my 97 F250 2wd the other day and it started blowing steam out the tail pipe. In recent months I have replaced the thermostat, heater core, and pressure cap on the reserve tank. I do believe I have blown a head gasket. I did check my oil fill cap and it showed signs of milky residue..
The motor in trouble here is the 4.6L gas. And I have yet to talk with my mechanic I had the thought to replace this one as it has over 330K kilometres on it. I wonder if a newer 4.6 from a similar F150 or F250 would have the same motor mounts. No, I am not looking at brand new as my budget isn't that of a millionaire. I have found a few younger 4.6 motors within my budget.
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My 2011 f250 has 92k miles, I want to change all 16 spark plugs.
Do the 6.2l plugs have problems breaking like the 3v engines did?
I think I'm going to pull the passenger fender liner to get to the lower plugs in the head.
How does the coil pigtail unclip? I looked at them briefly earlier and it looks like you pull the red tab back, then press down and pull on the pigtail but that did not work and I did not want to break anything.
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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I have a 2001 ford f250 6.8 v10 with just about 183,000 miles on it my wife has been driving it and she told me it was running kinda rough so I took it for a drive and she was right so I pulled #1 COP and found it was full of oil and the same with#2 and #3 had a little bit of oil not as bad. What is causing my plug holes to fill with oil?
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I purchased a 2000 F250 SD with 5.4L Automatic for a project with my daughter. After removing the fuel rail and the coil pack on the driver side I noticed two spark plug holes had oil in it almost to the top of the plug. I'm guessing it is a bad rocker cover gasket that is allowing oil to leak into the plugwells? Nothing I could find on the internet relating to this.
After removing the rocker cover the silicone gasket was intact but wet with oil. I purchased a replacement Felpro gasket but now understand they might need grommets for the crazy bolts Ford uses to hold the cover on the head.
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Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
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About a week ago I blew #10 spark plug out of my 1999 super duty. I was able to screw it back in, though it only has 2 1/2 threads now, and was able to put 12 ft/lb's of torque on it. I am driving it around and it is running fine but i am wondering if i am sitting on a ticking time bomb thats gonna blow at a random time, and if so what should i do about it. Should i just run it until the plug fully blows out, or is there an easier and cheaper fix that i could do if i fix it before the threads are fully stripped out. I have heard about Time Serts, but without pulling the head i would be scared of having a metal shaving get down into my cylinder and scratch the hell outta it.
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Got a 2015 6.2. No where near time to change plugs, with alot accessories i have installed it would suck if the cab has to come off. Can the plugs be changed with the cab on?
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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So my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
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What is the spark plug pattern on the 460 n where the wires go on the cap. And also how to time it.
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