Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 1997 F250 Started Blowing Steam Out Of Tail Pipe
Jan 1, 2017
I was driving my 97 F250 2wd the other day and it started blowing steam out the tail pipe. In recent months I have replaced the thermostat, heater core, and pressure cap on the reserve tank. I do believe I have blown a head gasket. I did check my oil fill cap and it showed signs of milky residue..
The motor in trouble here is the 4.6L gas. And I have yet to talk with my mechanic I had the thought to replace this one as it has over 330K kilometres on it. I wonder if a newer 4.6 from a similar F150 or F250 would have the same motor mounts. No, I am not looking at brand new as my budget isn't that of a millionaire. I have found a few younger 4.6 motors within my budget.
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I have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
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2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
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I have a 07 f250 and wanted to change them to the 08-14 tail lights. Did Ford change the size or a simple switch...
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty and I cannot figure out what is wrong with my 7 way for trailer lights. I have brake and turn signals but no tail lights. I have checked all fuses and relays and they are fine.
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I have a 2001 f250 v10 lariat ext cab. i was going to get wood the other day down a muddy road. My radio went out and all my running lights. i replaced the fuse radio and now the switch. Still nothing. Could it be a bad ground? i ran a jumper wire on my old switch and they worked then just stopped again. if it is a bad ground where would it be located.
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Steam out the tail pipe, misfire codes, rough idle. No water in oil, no over heating. Head gasket ??
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The flashers and blinkers work, the taillights, brake lights and back up lamps do not.
The truck is a 2004 F250 4x4... Checked all fuses. What am I missing?
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1999 F250 7.3 4x4 switch on dash with manual hubs. No visual vacuum hoses cracked.
Not sure what this component is but when I wiggle the wire at the orange cap a small motor kicks on.
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I have an 01 f250 5.4l standard. #19 fuse keeps blowing. I hAve taken the gauge cluster out and do not see any wires melted or burned. It blows the fuse as soon as I turn the key over. I have read things saying the overdrive but that doesn't work with mine.
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The A/C on my 05 F250 6.0 recently would not blow out through the vents. So, I replaced the vacuum pump and the reservoir tank. Once I replaced them the A/C still starts through the defrost vents but, after a minute or so starts to blow through the vents. I also noticed that the vacuum pump never stops running. Is this normal or is there something else I need to look for?
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Got a 99 V10 blowing a lot of oil out of the exhaust pipe, to the point where I could fog the neighborhood, cylinder number 10 had original spark plug dirt down in the hole know one wanted to clean it out so I did put new plug and coil now smokes a lot, also truck has 173559 miles, did a half diesel half used motor oil flush tonight, wanted to go for 15 minutes only made it to 14 to much smoke, will put fresh oil in tomorrow, what could be the problem, piston ring blow by, intake manifold leak, burning what I think is oil could be coolant, head gasket no bubbles in oil or antifreeze and antifreeze and or oil are not mixing. Is it easier to pull the heads off with pulling the motor which looks fairly easy or leave it in the truck.
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2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
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I have 2005 F250 6.0 XLT. I was driving the other night and all of a sudden my dash lights went out. I noticed I was being flashed from other drivers and discovered that my parking lights are not working. A preliminary check of fuses I discovered fuse #17 (15a mini) was blown. I installed and new one and upon turning my lights on, the fuse popped again. My headlights and turn signals work properly. It appears I have a wire shorted to ground somewhere on this circuit.
The truck is completely stock with the exception of an aftermarket radio which I installed two years ago.
I checked all the fuses with my test light and they are all correct (both sides of each fuse). I disconnected the gray connector and black connector in the driver side rear of the truck to isolate the issue. New fuse pops as soon as I turn lights on. I completely removed the tail lights, trailer 7 pin connector , completely removed both headlights. I did not disconnect the roof running lights or the mirror lights. I am completely stumped.
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My 1999 f250 superduty with the 5.4 was sitting in front of my house, and started all by itseft, did not have keys in it either and the doors were locked. I ran out thinking someone was stealing it but nope,? As far as I know it does not have a remote start either,i have owned it for the last two years and it has never happened before. It is a lariant edition also .
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My 2005 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel FX4 Lariat is blowing AC through defrost only all the time. I have manual locking hubs and when I engage 4x4 it works perfectly through the ESOF switch. So I am assuming the vacuum pump and lines to the hubs are in good working order but there is possibly a cracked line or fuse blown? I've only had the truck for 2 days and it just happened after purchase. I'm a little unfamiliar with checking vacuum but have done reading and I believe I can do it. I am going to get a manual hand pump and pump to 20lbs and loss shouldn't exceed 1lb per minute. I just need to know which direction to look. Everyone else had their 4x4 not working and I seem to be the only one posting that has ESOF 4x4 capability when the defrost only issue is on.
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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04 F-250, blowing tons of smoke. I've replaced the ICP sensor, crankcase breather hose (it was broken at the clip), cleaned the turbo, and EGR valve. Any other ways before I take it to a shop to get bent?
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2004 5.4L F-250 ... it's a one owner truck I bought brand new in 2003 and only has 50,000 miles on it.
I have the 2V 5.4 engine no tuner or chip. 4x4 with 4" lift and 35's and I changed the rear to 4.88's. I love the truck but my problem is when I hit a large bump or drive too fast on a dirt road the fuse#23 that controls the PCM will blow. Consistently. I have to keep a box of 20 amp fuses handy. I have a 2 post lift in my shop and have scoured over every wire that is connected to the fuse. The EVAP solenoid, AC Clutch, Transmission solenoids and the O2 sensors. I only have 2 sensors I could find one on each side of the headers.
I couldn't find any rubbing wires or exposed wires. I am at a loss. It only happens when I hit a large bump. Could it be the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid?
My brother in law is a mechanic and he brought over the diagnostic computer and when it blew while hooked up he seemed to think it was the TCC solenoid because when it engages the chart shows it angling up but when it disengages it drops off straight like it should. My truck seems to run fine when the fuse isn't blown, but when it blows it goes into a limp mode with the tranny stuck in 3rd or 4th gear and I have to drive it home in 1st.
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My 1999 F250 V10 has started to lose power off and on. It will run fine then when I stop at a light or sign, then when I take off it runs like I pulling something heavy. If I stop again it goes back to normal sometimes. 161000 miles. No check engine light is on. Motor idles perfect and sounds great. I don't know anything about motors...
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I have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
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